BurArrow Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 Hi all, Currently trying to remove the propshaft on my Herald based Arrow to get access to remove a bit of frame that really shouldn't be where it is. Seems to have been rubbing on the propshaft when going over bumps 😮 no idea why the previous owner(s) were happy with that one! Got the bolts off but the prop is stuck fast, tried the trusty rubber mallet on the flanges but no dice. Is there a knack to it or an end I should be focusing on to drop this out?  Quote
glang Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 I take it the prop does have some means of altering its length (sliding joint, flexible coupling etc) and its just the flanges that have stuck together? Sorry no recommendations but be careful as the flanges are easily distorted... Quote
BurArrow Posted December 9, 2023 Author Posted December 9, 2023 (edited) It's a rigid one with no sliding portion at the universal joints, unlike the replacements I see on Rimmer. I didn't want to go crazy on them as I thought it should mostly just drop down. At the diff end it slightly rotates in place when I tap the flanges just not got any up, down, left, right motion. Edited December 9, 2023 by BurArrow Quote
Wendy Dawes Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 You can ease the engine and gearbox mounts and Jack the engine forward a  little, this should give you a few mm to play with.  I did this on my herald  to get the prop off Quote
glang Posted December 9, 2023 Posted December 9, 2023 If its solid the risk is that it can apply thrust on the bearings in the gearbox and diff causing their premature failure... It looks like the couplings are not rusted together so you need to lever the engine/gearbox forward slightly to release them. This really needs an assistant with a large lever to get the small movement needed to disengage the flanges. Quote
BurArrow Posted December 10, 2023 Author Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Outstanding! roped in a trusty assistant to lever the block forward and the prop came right out 😄 thanks for the tip! On inspection one of the universal joints is pretty stiff in one axis and the rub looks nasty, what do we recon? time for a new one with spline?  Looks like the need to clear the frame piece inspired some interesting mods, such as chocking the gearbox mount with a wood spacer. As the bushes are totally knackered that's probably a task soon. A prop shaft with a bit of slide may make correcting these mounts easier 🤔 Edited December 10, 2023 by BurArrow 1 Quote
glang Posted December 10, 2023 Posted December 10, 2023 Yes UJs should be easy to move in all directions with no notchiness. The standard Herald prop is 50" long and I wonder if yours is a custom item especially as the welding at one end doesnt look original. This page is quite useful: Propshaft Problems : Canley Classics Some kind of axial flexibilty is desirable, although I believe Triumph did have solid ones as well, but be aware different size fixing bolts were used so you have to get a prop that matches both gearbox and diff flanges... Â Quote
BurArrow Posted December 10, 2023 Author Posted December 10, 2023 So I measured it at 45.5" but as I'm without an overdrive we have a real mix of bits. Engine mounts look to be spaced about 1" back which would also explain the custom gearbox mount I guess. Don't see 50" ever fitting though hmmmm How much range is in a propshaft with telescopic slide? I see Dave Mac is recommended on the forums. Quote
glang Posted December 10, 2023 Posted December 10, 2023 Those different props can be ordered from Canleys but as I say you would need to specify the the flanges required at each end. Ive seen new ones with a smaller OD than the originals which looks to be handy in your car... Theres about 1.25" of slide and obviously best to run about half way of that. Quote
BurArrow Posted February 11 Author Posted February 11 Just a quick update here. The new custom propshaft arrived the other day, all balanced and ready to go from Dunning and Fairbank https://www.dandfltd.co.uk/ All installed without a problem, the sliding spline makes it so much easier! For reference for anyone interested after measuring lots they confirmed the flanges are SAE 1140 front and back. 1 Quote
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