josh18 Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 No worries at all Mal, and Johnny, thanks for that- that won't help my situation! I will leave it as is for now until I can get some proper stubs and get some spacers made up. At least now it fits together so I can continue with the rest of the fit up.Cheers guysJosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Also Im thinking of re routing the exhaust out the right side. Seeing as I am going to have to drill out the hole in the left hand leg anyway I thought I may as well do the right side instead and move the whole lot over so the exhaust doesn't have to cross under the tail shaft. Any problems/ disadvantages to this I haven't thought of?Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 More progress- the quill shaft carrier has now been modded and some thick wall angle iron tacked in. I have had it in the car but it wasn't quite right so the tacks were ground off and the whole lot readjusted slightly. Hopefully it's pretty much right when I get another chance to test fit it. I cant believe how similar the two diffs are, in length at least. Between front flange and rear mounting face is identical and between front flange and drive shaft centres there is only 2mm difference! As seen in the pics I couldn't get the diff to mount as far to the right as it needed to be. I don't see much issue here though- the LH side half shaft is now long enough and I will have to have just one longer spacer made up for the RH side. Anyway here are some more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Hey Julian, what method did you use to adapt the suby diff to the triumph tailshaft? Im thinking maybe the datsun/ suby yoke may be able to be adapted to fit the triumph tailshaft, similar to adapting to datsun axles.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 I pulled the input flange off the Subaru diff and redrilled the bolt hole pattern to the Triumph spec, rotated 45° from the orignal holes.As the Subaru diff is a tad longer than the Triumph diff including nosepiece, I had the propshaft shortened and balanced. It only needed 10-15mm taken out.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 Thanks mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 GRRR! I have pretty much finished all the fab work to mount the diff and was about to permanently mount the diff today. As I was almost ready I noticed a little play in the main axle bearings. I was pretty annoyed as I was told it was in good condition. I popped off the side cover to have a look at the bearing and to my horror the bearing and the spigot that should be part of the centre came off in my hand!The only thing that held the diff together was the stub axle, and as far as i can see the diff is totally stuffed! To say Im pissed off is an understatement, especially considering how rare this diff is and how well it suited my goals.Upon stripping it I think it has failed because the numpty that last assembled it put in extra clutch plates to tighten it up and make it more "fully sik"! Along with the spigot breaking off there are stress cracks inside- it looks like the cause was too much outwards force and the thin cast iron just couldn't take it. Anyway, Im not really sure what to do now, I doubt there will be parts available for the centre. Im looking at getting a Suby viscous lsd now and swapping the CW/P over to get my ratio back. Pretty bummed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 NASTY ! Sorry to see that.Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Encom Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Holy ^&%!! The joys of second hand parts.I have a contact that may be able to help with a replacement. I'll send you a PM if he can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 Thanks heaps Encom.I have already bought another one though- this time a 'suretrac' unit from a much later STI rex. As far as stub axles go it may be as simple as getting mine machined to accept a snap ring to hold them in or as hard a finding a new set to fit. There is a lot of different info on the suretrac diff stubs and all seems to conflict. When i get it I will see what I need and go from there. As for the diff it wasn't as cheap as the last but is much more modern and guaranteed to have been tested, working and in great nick. As an LSD this diff works much more like a Quaife or Torsen and is apparently much better for road use than the clutch style.Can't wait to have a look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Quoted from josh18 As an LSD this diff works much more like a Quaife or Torsen and is apparently much better for road use than the clutch style.Can't wait to have a look! Don't worry you can still do doughnuts with it, as I can testify.Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 That's all an LSD is for anyway isn't it?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 You don't need an LSD to do doughnuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Hey guys. Well I got my new "excellent condition" diff. At first it looked to be just that, until on closer inspection there are some welds around one end that have cracked! I did a bit more research and found out this is a common problem and there was a factory recall for it- obviously this one slipped through. Looking at it further it looks like the welds are there to stop a threaded part unscrewing itself, not really holding the diff together. I talked to a welder about it and he reckoned give it a go.So today i welded it up and all seems to have gone really well, I am just hoping that all the heat hasn't done any damage to the diff. I think it'll be alright and I'm just letting it cool down slowly.I've also finished the mods to the subframe to mount the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Subframe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 GRRR, I found out this arvo that the original 3.7 diff I bought, which I'm now using the CW/P from is actually a 4.1! it has stamped on it 37: something unclear. I had a better look at it today and it is 37:9 = 4.1:1. Oh well, it will be a pain on the highway but should be a hoot on the track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Hey all. After a couple of months on exercise fixing these bad boys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzOTOf17Ykk, I have come home with renewed vigor to get the rear end done and back in the car. I have found a way to use the bolt in Datsun stub axles with the modern Circlip style Subaru diff, using some modified pieces out of the broken original diff. I'm also using the case and the gears of that diff too so it was no great loss that it was broken really. Due to the way I have mounted the diff in the centre cradle it is slightly off centre to the left. This means i can use the original datsun axle that I had, but I will need to buy a flanged bolt on style stub axle for right hand side and have a spacer made up to fill the gap. I have assembled the lot on the garage floor so when I get the stub axle I will be able to accurately measure for the spacer. I also wanted to run the suspension through its travel to check for any binding etc- it all seems like it was meant to be there.The only thing structurally i want to do now is some sort of brace across the top of the modified cradle. It's probably overkill but I know it's a really high stress area and I want to make sure there's no chance of movements.Anyway, here are some picsCheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 a couple more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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