Jump to content

2000 diff limitations?


yorkshire_spam

Recommended Posts

Quoted from Encom


Sounds like there is a market for a batch of those adapter plates for the outputs shafts


Dunno.... I cut down the Subaru CV output shafts and welded on the adapter plate for the Datsun UJ flange.
I already had the Datsun shafts so that is why I did that.  If didn't already have them, I would have seriously looked at getting the Subaru CV shafts to fit the Triumph hubs.

And indeed, the it really is a simple way of mounting the diff.  Almost as though the long nose was meant to be under the Big Triumphs..  

Julian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure what the 180B ratios were.  I got mine from a car dismantler who had a shelf full of them.  Poked around until I found a long nose with 3.7:1 ratio, the same as the original Triumph unit.  
I did do some homework before starting off and found some things on the internet such as forum discussions on what type of diff could be found in what model, with ratios and whether LSD was available.  I may have some print out knocking about, but i'll have to search in the morning.
Also, if you get a more modern Subaru R160 which has push-in stubaxles with integral CV housings like mine, it is apparently easy to replace them with the older bolt on flanged type stubaxles - to use with the Datsun splined halfshafts.

A quick google search reveals that the 180B used a final drive ratio of 3.7:1.  There may have been more ratios, but this is the first page I looked at. Remember that the R160  diff was also in Datsun 510 / 1600 models.

Julian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from josh18
Encom that looks great! Your set up looks a lot simpler than I have seen before. Are the brackets you mounted the diff onto cut down angle iron?
Those pics are definitely going into the memory bank!


The K frame diff extension is cut out and trimmed down angle welded in (by a certified welder) and the R200 housing on the nose tided up with a grinder to ensure a nice fit all round. The rear is a cut down R31 Skyline mount, but could be made up any number of ways. Basically this thing is like a brick dunny, and weighs about the same compared with a R160.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from josh18
Hey Julian. Do you know what LSD is in your R160? I have heard of both viscous and mechanical. I like your adaptors- it was how I was planning to do mine.


Mine is an open R160 from either a Subaru Forrester or Legacy.  Over here in Netherlands LSDs are rare as WRX cars are thin on the ground.  The dismantlers are relatively expensive too.  There are pretty much no more car scrappers where you can go take bits off yourself.  Datsun cars and parts are as good as non-existant.  Got my 280ZX halfshafts from San Diego via Ebay - cost incl. shipping was less than one shaft if I could get one here.
If this one lets go I may look hard for a LSD version.  To be honest, my car rides very nicely and getting either rear wheels to spin is not easy.  It sticks to the road rather well.

My setup is similar to Encoms.  The diff nose bracket was modified by cutting out a big hole and fitting a steel box section in.
Rear mount is a standard Stag mounting with new hole drilled.  It really is surprising how well it fits.  Link for pics in post 13 of this thread.

Julian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...