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Differential replacement tips


mazfg

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So, my diff is leaking slightly from 2 of the 3 ports.....  Having looked at the removal etc...and having a Vitesse 6 without lower wishbones..the job doesn't look too bad.  Need a diff and wondered what bushes are worth replacing whilst I'm at it?  Preferable poly ones..are there kits?  Also worth changing UJ at driveshaft ends?

Many thanks in advance

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Is there any other reason beside the leaking why you want to replace the diff? Slight leaking might be as simple as a blocked vent causing pressure that forces oil out wherever it can. It's a five-minute job to clean the gunk off from around that vent!

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Quoted from herald948
Is there any other reason beside the leaking why you want to replace the diff? Slight leaking might be as simple as a blocked vent causing pressure that forces oil out wherever it can. It's a five-minute job to clean the gunk off from around that vent!


Actually I was speaking to a friend of mine about this earlier...he said the same thing. Isn't there a hole at the top which can get gunked up (a sort of pressure release)  I'll have a look later..but other than that it sounds fine..no squealing  

Whereabouts is the vent and is it that accessible?

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From below, feel up over the top of the rear on the right hand side (about level with the filler plug on the other side) and find the head of a split pin.  This should fit loosely in a hole to act as a vent.  If it becomes covered in crud and forms a seal, then when the diff gets hot, air inside expands and forces oil out past the oil seals.  So wiggle it around to make sure it is free to move and allow expanding air to escape.

C.

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Easiest seen if you take the offside wheel off and shine a torch in there, it's on the bit that extends back to the mounting bush. Attack it with a toothbrush dipped in parrafin or gunk or similar. That should get it moving. It's not a very big hole or split pin, and it doesn't take much to block it. If it's been blocked a long time the seals might be past it (mine were.....) but it's worth giving it a clean first to see if it makes a difference.

If it doesn't work, changing the seals isn't too difficult, it can be done in situ but it's probably easier to drop the diff out. The only things you'll need to do the seals  which you might not already have are a 3/16" allen key for the driveshaft seal plate and a 1 1/8" socket for the pinion nut.  Getting the bearings off to replace the driveshaft seals can be a struggle without a press, so once they're off you might need to pop them down to a local garage if you don't have a press.

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Exactly what happened with mine. The hole got blocked and the oil blew one of the seals. I cleaned the hole, replaced the seal and it's been fine ever since.
It was thanks to this forum I found this out.

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Ok, so I may just decide to take the diff out and replace the seals...since I topped up the oil..it's dripping a little more...so I guess needs and might as well poly bush it back on.
So, the most difficult seals are the driveshafts ?  How about the pinion? This is where the oil seems to be mainly leaking out of.

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Diff pin seal, tek split pin oot, {awkward at times } undoo nut, pull flange off,
owk old seal oot, re fit new,n
Note, check for wear ridges int flange, yours should be a leather seal, but maybe not, rubber type put grooves in flange, so they no seal v weel,
if gota wear bit, pack the seal housing at bottom  to mek new seal move onto a non wear bit,   also, fine polish flange, to get rid of the rust that will be thea.

side seals, gotta tek the whole side flange/axle stub oot,
the tricky bit is getting the bearing off, as seal is behint it.
near hand imposarble on some old,ns, as they seem to stik togither well.

Me self, re new bearing if there any play, they no much
be wary using a splitter, as they can shatter the bearing outer

I med a plate to fit under the flange, this way, can press/pull the bearing  frae the other side,
be wary using a puller on flange, it,ll merst likly bend it

M

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