bxbodger
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Everything posted by bxbodger
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An 063 will be fine, available anywhere off the shelf for £30-£35 (except Halfords who charge a king's ransom for them) I have one in my Vitesse, and it has no problem cranking that over in the winter do it'll be fine on a Herald. The terminals are the wrong way round but it's easy enough to sort.
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I bought a whole car Polybush kit, direct from Polybush, for my Vitesse. It was the best value for money. I did a bit of research before spending the money, the Superflex ones seem very pricey compared to the Polybush ones but don't offer anything more that I could discover, and the cheap eBay ones don't have a terrific reputation, there doesn't seem to be any consistency to how they perform: some people have no bother with them and some people have had nothing but trouble from them, so Polybush it was. They've been in a year and are fine so far.
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All you need to do is disconnect the battery positive, set your meter to the amp setting (careful with the leads) and connect it between the battery and positive cable, and you should see a current draw. Some of it will be the radio, some of it will be whatever is draining the battery. You then just pull fuses one by one until you see the draw drop. That will lead you to the problem item.
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I just used a normal multi-purpose grease in mine.
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All you need to do is unclip the upper cover... turn the seat over, you'll see the clips that hold the cover to the frame, prise those off, the cover can then be slid off, and all will then be revealed.
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Try it with an extra earth- use a jump lead directly from one of the starter mounting bolts to the battery earth terminal. You could also try starting it by bypassing the solenoid and just using a jump lead connected to the battery positive, and touch the starter terminal with the other end. Watch out for sparks! Either test will show if there's issues with the wiring, but buying a geared starter is not the solution.
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if ye olde Lucas is playing up, check the cables, if that's not the problem then a new set of brushes and a clean up of the Bendix normally sorts it. Failing that they're only about thirty or so quid exchange from any decent local spares shop. There's no need to go to the expense of a geared starter, you're not trying to turn over a cold diesel in the middle of winter.
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Don't buy the cheapo £100ish non moulded ones if you're worried about fit, the fit is terrible. You would have thought the people who make them would at least try and get an approximation to the right size but they're nowhere near. Carpets are too an extent disposable in a convertible, and you don't want to spend too much on them, and I don't expect Wilton, but I do expect them to be reasonably close size and shape wise.
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I'd love to have seen/heard it run afterwards. Small strokers are pretty tolerant of a bit of bore wear and piston slap but that takes the biscuit. How on earth would you be able to ensure consistency all the way down? He couldn't have been serious!
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I fitted an Aldon ignitor getting on for ten years ago now, because I couldn't get decent points/condenser. It's worked flawlessly, with a distributor doctor arm. I have also used a cheapo unit in my Metro, which failed on me and it's now back on points. The Aldon unit seemd to be built to a quality level, the cheaper ones knocked out by accuspark, britpart, etc, seen to be built down to a price. They're like chalk and cheese.
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When I did mine I just tapped it in until it seated- the one I took out was a single lipped one, make sure your replacement is double lipped.
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When I bought my Vitesse, my rear tub was pretty much like that eBay one, and the car was on the road with an mot. There were no repair sections for where the boot floor meets the back axle tunnel back then so I had to make them up myself, but they're available now. Apart from that bit on the tonneau panel which might be a bit fiddly, that tub looks to be an easy repair given the repair sections available today.
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The repro pumps work OK but come with a useless plastic internal filter rather than the original brass mesh type. If you do fit a repro pump, chuck the plastic filter in the bin and fit a line filter.
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The kenlowe that used to be on mine was identical to the one pictured in the original post, same plastic feet, thin bolts through the core, but no springs.......I junked it in favour of a plastic TR6 crank-driven fan, and the car has been much better in the summer.
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According to the box mine came in "Polybushes.....and are unaffected by fuel and oil. The original fit and forget" We'll see! I did a bit of research prior to buying them because they ain't cheap and the consensus appears to be that you get what you pay for. The cheap ones of unknown provenance don't seem to last long, the decent branded ones seem to be capable of being removed when cars are sold and reused.
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Gunsons carbalancer, does the job, around fifteen quid, and once you use one you realise how inaccurate it is doing it by ear!
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If you want something that looks reasonably original from a distance then you can use one meant for a Minor or A30/35, readily available and cheap.
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Use a monodex if you want accuracy, hand achingly slow, but accurate and with no distortion.
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Easiest seen if you take the offside wheel off and shine a torch in there, it's on the bit that extends back to the mounting bush. Attack it with a toothbrush dipped in parrafin or gunk or similar. That should get it moving. It's not a very big hole or split pin, and it doesn't take much to block it. If it's been blocked a long time the seals might be past it (mine were.....) but it's worth giving it a clean first to see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't work, changing the seals isn't too difficult, it can be done in situ but it's probably easier to drop the diff out. The only things you'll need to do the seals which you might not already have are a 3/16" allen key for the driveshaft seal plate and a 1 1/8" socket for the pinion nut. Getting the bearings off to replace the driveshaft seals can be a struggle without a press, so once they're off you might need to pop them down to a local garage if you don't have a press.
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Do you have an electric fan? I completely cured this problem by getting rid of the kenlowe and reverting to a standard engine driven fan.
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It may be nothing more than the brake hose on the affected side breaking up inside, acting as a one way valve and not fully permitting the brake to release properly. If the fluid cant move slightly up the hose it'll stick. It costs nothing to check and should be the first thing you look at- hoses off, blow through them either way and see if there's a difference in resistance, swap them over side to side and see if the other side is then affected.
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These things, available from all the usual suppliers....they fill the gap between the over-riders and the ally bits..http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-608491....also don't forget your over-riders may have taken a knock at some time and be out of line a bit.
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No room in front on a Vitesse.....there's barely space behind the rad as well. My fans a plastic one - yellow, 7 blades with rounded tips, came off a TR6, it we me to shift loads more air than the kenlowe did.
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Before you splash out on a kenlowe, do a cheap experiment, and revert to the standard crank driven mechanical fan and see if it solves the problem. Mine had a kenlowe, it was never happy in heavy summer traffic - constant fuel vaporisation and lumpy running, plus the racket the fan made whenever it was on. I reverted to the factory fan and it was such an improvement I can't figure out why the previous owner fitted the kenlowe . the kenlowe blocks such a lot of the rad matrix (see pic) and doesn't shift anywhere near as much air as the factory fan
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Go into halfords where they're out on display, measure them, then buy anywhere else but halfords, who are the most expensive battery vendors on the known universe.