bxbodger
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Everything posted by bxbodger
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Save your money, filter removal tools are a waste of time, there never seems to be the access to actually use them as intended. I either undo them by hand or, if a heavy oaf has fitted them, whack a screwdriver through the o get them moving.
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Save your money, filter removal tools are a waste of time, there never seems to be the access to actually use them as intended. I either undo them by hand or, if a heavy oaf has fitted them, whack a screwdriver through the o get them moving.
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A BX rear lower engine mount is a similar size and shape. They're common across many PSA cars.
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Paper gaskets are quick and easy and thus cost efficient at factory assembly stage, but having put together many gear-in-sump A series motors over the years I can tell you that sometimes your better off using hylomar or similar rather than the paper gasket.....especially when it comes to 'stat housings....a liquid sealant does the same job as a paper one, it just takes longer and wouldhence cost more on the line. It is easier to get off than a well stuck paper gasket every time!
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You're suffering from gauge paranoia......look at at it this way, if you didn't have a pressure gauge, would you be worrying about it? Provided that the green light goes out within the first couple of cranks of the starter, and there's no nasty rattles, then it's OK and you're needlessly worrying! Low pressure at hot idle is normal for any used engine really.
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I fitted one of those cheapo Britpart systems to my Metro, simply to make maintenance a bit easier (either the rad or the dizzie have to come out for checking/cleaning/adjustment)...what a useless piece of jink it turned out to be, the car developed a worsening random misfire and stalling, traced to the britpart unit. I took the thing apart, it was clearly made for pennies with very poor soldering and an expected fail rate. The points went back in and have been utterly reliable.
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There is an adjustment on the back of the button, its a small threaded bolt with a locknut, that goes in/out of the button, is this that bears on the lock mechanism when you push the button. Have you looked at this yet? You may just need to wind it out a bit to take up the slack. It was probably last set when the door was assembled in the factory.
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There is an adjustment on the back of the button, its a small threaded bolt with a locknut, that goes in/out of the button, is this that bears on the lock mechanism when you push the button. Have you looked at this yet? You may just need to wind it out a bit to take up the slack. It was probably last set when the door was assembled in the factory.
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Ive not seen one like that on an A series, anid I've had quite a few A series motors over the years. A series ones generally have two 'ears' not one, and A plus is a fork, although that's not to say it isn't A series, its maybe just one I've never seen! But I don't think that it's A series.
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According to the manual, you should screw a 'number ten' UNF setscrew into the hole in the cap and pull on that. It's supposed to be in the car's toolkit.....I have no idea what number ten means in UNF terms, these days it'll mean anything that fits!
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I had mintex pads for a while, and found them somewhat wooden.....i changed them for Jurid pads, so much better, a really noticeable improvement in feel. Regarding four-pot calipers, my Metro, being a mk2, has four-pot calipers and vented discs as standard, later, K series powered, metros, were fitted with single pot swing calipers and solid discs, presumeably much cheaper to make, and certainly much easier to look after, and I can honestly say that there's no noticeable difference between the two types.....
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My drivers door doesn't lock from the inside, either. With regard to having a push-button lock on the passenger side, I would have thought that all you need to do would be to use the locking button from a drivers side handle....the locking mechanism is entirely self contained within the button, its not however something I've ever looked into because my car being a ragtop, I never lock it anyway.......so there may be some reason why you can't adapt a locking button to the passanger side, but I can't see why not!
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A wheel cylinder has been a wheel cylinder since the dawn of time, it's nothing to do with being pc, that's what they've always been called as far as I'm aware! I don't think I have ever heard anyone refer to a drum brake cylinder as a slave, cylinder, ever. .....and a bastard file is still that, never been given a PC name- you can have a flat bastard, a half round bastard, etc, but all have the same cut: any tool vendor will know exactly what you want as the term is still in common usage, there's no other name for that cut.
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No, that's all I did, it was always a pain on a hot day, the other issue being K&N filters, constantly slurping hot thin air....when I pulled the rad out to get the kenlowe off it was obvious that when it wasn't running it was blocking a sizeable amount of airflow through the rad. I returned the 'improvements' back to standard and that was the end of hot-day fuelling issues- the PIC shows just how much rad is covered by a kenlowe.....
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Well in my case the solution was easy, junk the useless kenlowe that a previous owner had fitted and fit the proper factory engine driven fan, end of problem!
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There's no need to use of be clutch, I never have, I just switch it on and off as required. Provided you have clean oil, and the inhibitor switch works, you should barely notice it engaging/disengaging, there certainly shouldn't be thumping and lurching. They work exactly the same as an autobox- sun'n'planet and brake bands, and those are driven completely without thought or clutch.
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Before you do anything, are you doing this because the diff is slowly losing oil? If so, check the diff breather first.... It's on the offside, above and slighy forward of the diff rear mount. If you jack the offside, let the axle hang down, you can see it.There's a tiny hole with a split pin head sticking out, they clog with decades of accumulated grime, underseal, waxoil, whatever, the diff oil heats up as you drive, the air in there expands, and forces the oil past the seals. Clean that out ....I did mine with a toothbrush on a stick, once the pin starts jiggling about it's clear and the oil leak magically cures itself.
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When you put it all back together did you add a fuel filter? If not, put a clear disposable one in somewhere that you can see it, between the pump and carbs- they're only a few quid from any spares place and are of great help in these situations, not only for hoovering up any crap from the tank, pipe, etc, but also for being able to eyeball that fuel is actually getting through.
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No Marina ever had rims that wide!
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You said it yourself, workhorse. If it's off the road it's not working. Drum swap, an hour or so, drum skim, off the road for a day or so at least... Its the same with a lot of front wheel bearings these days, bolt on housed bearings, dearer to buy but a couple of hours off the road, so probably cheaper in real terms.
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1960's 'continental motoring' was done on 1960's oil, a cooler may have been thought neccesary then, but today? With modern oils? Its just an extra bit of unnecessary bling.
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If you're pressing what's called the lifting pin on the side of the carb (with the damper out) and the piston is dropping back with a clunk then the jet is properly centred, one less thing to worry about. Thames barrier type choke is sort of self explanatory, when you look down the carb throat and get someone to pull the choke out, you'll see a bar rotate round and come up, just like the Thames Barrier does. I'm still not convinced its anything to do with fuelling though, fuel issues related to heat normally sort themselves out pretty quickly, whereas with ignition problems it can take forever to restart. I still think its ignition related, just because parts are new doesn't .mean they're any good- coils for example, they seem just too cheap these days. One other thing, a long shot at this time of year......you haven't got a kenlowe or similar fan fitted? My car did, it caused all sorts of bother with fuel vaporisation in heavy traffic, all sorted the instant i binned the dreadful thing for the standard crank driven fan.
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I very much doubt this is anything to do with fuelling. But....does your rotor arm collection consist of black shiny ones with the brass bit riveted on, that came in a Lucas box? If so, before you do anything else at all, throw the whole lot straight in the bin and get yourself one of the quality replacements that the distributor doctor sells, which are made to original spec. I think you'll find that this will solve your problem.
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My vote is heat too......lots of it!! If you have a mig welder, attack it with that, try and weld something to it, a big nut, chunk of square bar, whatever, something you can get a grip on, the heat should loosen it enough to undo it.