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TR3a front bearing / hub


Andy Flexney

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I have just replaced the bearings in the front hub, (also had to replace the hub but that's a different story).
In the book it says "tighten the castel nut to 10 ib/ft and then turn back 1.5 to 2 turns depending on the hole for the split pin"
Right okay! I do that but then the wheel has a slight wobble (very slight) when I grab it top an bottom and pull it back and forth. If I try to feel this by jamming my finger between the hub and the upright near the stub axle I don't notice anything.

Should there be no movement at all or is it okay to have a slightest little bit of play?

I am a little scared when it comes to wheel bearings. Years ago I once lost a front wheel on the motorway. I had just dropped it into 4th overdrive and was passing a lorry so you can expect I was doing about 80 - 85 mph. The bearing had got too hot and the stub axle broke.

Cheers
Andy

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You should behave yourself on the Nordschleife ... see what comes off it  :P

As for the play on the bearings, their shouldn't be any.
On my car,  I keep spinning the hubs while  tightening the bearings slowly. The moment they start to rotate slightly heavier you're their. Also if they aren't tightened enough you can hear them when turning the hub. It's not the most scientific approach but never had any problems with it.

And if you're not sure you can always drop by when you are in Düsseldorf  ;D

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Thanks Beans, but I have heard different from a guy who shoudl know. The TR3 has tapered bearings and not roller bearings therefore there should be a very slight play in the bearing.
Method: tighten up until no play at all and turn nut BACK until you can get the split pin through. This results in a little play.
Apparently there is always discussions at the MOT because the "new" (read young) guys think there should be no play at all.

As to the Nurburgring as you know we tightened the bearing slightly and that got me back to Willi. We changed the bearing back at Willi's workshop and everything seemed fine. It looks like the hub was on the way out or the bearing seat we put in was too small. Anyway I had to replace the hub as well.

Cheers
AndyF

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TR7 also has tapered bearings but no castle nuts. So it's just a matter of  tightening the nut till the hub just turns freely without any play, after which on a TR7 you put on the nut retainer.
Play or not to play ...  ::) it's often that the bearing has rotated slightly on the hubaxle causing some wear and thus play

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