Stromberg Carb Problem

[dazzer]

I run Strombergs and have come across a problem similar to this on a couple of occasions.

Are you still using the original metal pipework to connect the strombergs together?

If so replace it with new rubber pipe and T pieces. Easy swap.

The metal pipe corrodes and blocks up usually at the bottom of the u bend and causes all sorts of weird running problems. If you take a section through most of these old pipes its a wonder any fuel gets through.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Dazzer

[neil spencer]

Leads are new.
The petrol feed pipe is a metal T piece, with metal continuing under the carbs and 2 short rubber connecting pieces. I will remove this and check it out but when the new carbs were fitted the rear float valve was stuck and flooded the carb which shows fuel delivery seems ok. Float valve was replaced with another new one.
I haven't checked the new coil yet, a Lucas sport type as I have just got up after night shift.
I will start it in the dark garage for a quick look to see if anything is sparking.

Neil

[69vitesse]

Never assume because a part is new it must be 100% functional.

Check - Test - Eliminate.

[Pete Lewis]

stombergs are generally
  CD 150 ( thames barrier type choke)   mixture  jet adjusts beneath
                                      
CDS       same but choke is now a side mounted starting valve  may be only on one of the pair.

CDSE     has adjustment made tamper proofed , uses allen key or offset slot driver down the dash pot tube, can have temperature compensators on the side to bypass and speed up idle when very hot

make sure no gaskets are upside down and blocking or obstructing the front face vent holes,  same applies to the air box.

make sure the two holes in the bottom of the air piston are actually engine side, in case the diaphragm has been fitted incorrectly.

make sure the gaskets between the carb and manifold are the right way round and not obstructing the bypass ports for the temp compensators ( thats if they are fitted

Float heghts should be 18mm from bottom of float to carb face ,  make sure no flaoting debris from disturbing the fuel supply is not being lodged behind the float needle valve , common for slivers of rubber hose to float and jam in these

Pete

[neil spencer]

I am sorry about the lack of posts lately but I had to work away for 10 days at short notice.
Thank you to all who made suggestions but it was all to no avail.
I am now in the process of removing the head as I am convinced there is a valve problem.
I have been a bit short of time since I came home but last week I took a spare head to Welhams in Leicester to be reconditioned and converted to unleaded. This should be back in the next couple of days so by the end of the weekend I should be up and running again. I will post an update as soon as the car is done.
Incidentally I am in the process of renovating a 1972 Pi that I stripped and had dipped. It is being welded by E.J.Wards in Leicestershire and the end is in sight. It will then have another dip and be "E" coated by SPL in Dudley. Most of the bits to go back in eg engine, box, diff, suspension, interior etc have all been rebuilt and are sitting waiting for a car to go back in to.
Then I can start my next project, 2 Heinkel Trojan bubble cars! Don't ask.
Neil.