Charles H Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 The diff in the MkIV non OD spit has gone rumble rumble! The front seal had gone and meant that it destroyed itself due to lack of lubrication and cooling! :(Question is, what ratio is it? Are they easily reset/rebuildable or is a good second hand one the way to go? Alternatively perhaps a reconditioned exchange one. The car still drives but the diff is now noisy but pours oil out of the front seal! Any advice will be gratefully received! ::) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Charles,I can't speak to the ratio or the price on your side of the Atlantic, but your existing differential probably isn't a rebuikdable unit. The reason it is pouring oil out is most likely that the pinion bearings have gone. This destroys the crownwheel and pinion if they were good before the oil got out. I think there was a thread about this subject last summer, try searching the archives. Good luck, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 CharlesI think yours MkIV is a 3.89 to 1.A new Diff should set you back about £350 (as your old unit will not be exchangable)It may be cheaper if you shop around or go for a second hand unit?Hope this helpsRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Rumble in the jungle will probably only be the stub shaft roller bearings Can be done in situ, both sides seals and brgs ......£40.00The front seal is easy, can be done in situ................a tennerAll done in a couple of hours.............alll you need is to utilise someones press or puller for the stub shafts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 PS have you got the workshop manual to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 michael_charlton wrote:PS have you got the workshop manual to do this?If you need a scan of this I can assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 You see , easy to fix and dirt cheap as advised by us tight Northerners.......Second tight Northerner tip...............instead of computers , write to each other on the back of each page of a copied workshop manual. Then by 2015 everyone will have a full workshop manual copy ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 michael_charlton wrote:Rumble in the jungle will probably only be the stub shaft roller bearings Can be done in situ, both sides seals and brgs ......£40.00The front seal is easy, can be done in situ................a tennerAll done in a couple of hours.............alll you need is to utilise someones press or puller for the stub shafts You're an optimist Mike ;D If it is only a rumble and there is no wailing/whining/howling then the crown wheel and pinion may be ok still. This means that the diff can be rebuilt by a competent transmission repair shop. If the CWP are dead - best find another used diff in serviceable condition.As mentioned this should be a 3.89 with 4 bolt casing for the swing spring. Used on all Mk4 1300 plus US spec 1500 Spitfires. 3.89 is also used in GT6 with OD and Vitesse 2L with 6 bolt casing. Extra bolt holes can be blanked or the rear casing swapped.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles H Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Thanks guys, the crown wheel and pinion are probably OK, I stopped because of a 'hot smell' rather than noise. The diff was VERY hot, and only rumbled as I deccelerated. It never was the most silent of units! It was recovered home and to test it, I filled it back up with oil and drove around the block. There is a bearing type noise rather than a miss mesh type noise, and on returning over the pit, oil is pouring from the front seal. So, perhaps the £40 in situ methed may be the way to go,.... however, it may just be removed and checked out thoroughly because the other seals will have probably been 'cooked' from the heat. That way, the condition of the crown wheel and pinion can also be checked. A little winter job! >:(Thanks for the advice.I have Mr Haynes manual, should this give enough technical information? :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 131 wrote:Thanks guys.I have Mr Haynes manual, should this give enough technical information? :-/No. A PROPER workshop manual pt number 511243 is best, or we northerners can send a copy , post or whatever PM either of usPS all seals and bearings can be done in situ , but if you feel happier removing............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 PS or we can send Mike Helm as he likes repairing things like that on the side of the road :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 michael_charlton wrote:all seals and bearings can be done in situNot even Harry FN Potter could manage this !Please explain how you change both pinion bearings or main CW carrier bearings in situ ?Never mind shim the same.It is most likley it's the pinion bearings that have failed due to pinions speed compared to all the other bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 michael_charlton wrote:Rumble in the jungle will probably only be the stub shaft roller bearings Can be done in situ, both sides seals and brgs ......£40.00The front seal is easy, can be done in situ................a tennerAll done in a couple of hours.............alll you need is to utilise someones press or puller for the stub shafts Didnt say anthing other than the stub shaft rollers and seals and the tail................nor shims I have done this twice before ...you dont have to be harry pott head to be able to lift car or pit.....lift half shafts, remove stubs, and then bench remove the brgs and seals. Tail..........remove prop from coupling pull out seal etcDidn`t say anything else about any other partAfter I had done the changes then I had/have no leaks and no rumbles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 michael_charlton wrote:all seals and bearings can be done in situ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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