Clutch Bleeding

[Doig]

I have now got my gearbox installed and it seems to be working fine (even the overdrive :))

However I seem to have  gained a clutch problem during the refit. The Clutch works fine when the car is cold but as it warms up it gets more and more difficult to select gear (especially reverse which makes a grinding noise).

From studying previous threads I'm pretty sure that this is caused by air in the clutch fluid and should be able to be cured by bleeding the system.

This leaves me with two main questions.

1). Is this as difficult as people make out? The factory manual I have recomends a two person job with 1 person operating the pedal with the other with a rubber hose on the bleed nipple checking for the last of the air bubbles. While other people have reccomended removing the slave cylinder and holding it above the master cylinder while draining it. Other people have recomended the ezi bleed system which I presume uses presssure to clear the system.

2). Is it likely that the seals have failed causing air to enter the system? If so what parts do I need to repair the slave cylinder etc. and is it a difficult job to do?

PS the overdrive works beautifully and has really transformed the car thanks to everybodies help and advice which made the transfer possible

[Deleted User]

It isn't that hard to bleed the clutch.... I use an ezibleed type set up on the slave which makes it  a one man op.  Have you used the same hole on the actuating lever?

Air will rarely get in due to seal failure, just fluid getting out as a symptom...

I think a Land Rover 7/8" clutch slave is very similar...

[Richard B]

Make sure the bleed nipple is on the upper hole of the cylinder, with the pipe on the lower hole. If these are reversed than air will tend to stay in the slave cylinder rather than come out.

[Beans]

Could, also be the flexibel hose between master and work cilinder being a bit to flexibel. Rubber and plastic do get more flexibel when hot, so they widen under pressure making room for more fluid  :o
I had that problem years ago with a new hose on my TR7.

[Deleted User]

I fitted one of these to my competition car but its probably overkill on a road car ...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Triumph-2000-2500-PI-Mk2-braided-clutch-hose_W0QQitemZ4558879833QQcategoryZ27383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Beans]

Yes that's the same way as I solved the problem.
Well, better overkill than a ruined gearbox  ;)

[Doig]

[quote by=andythompson link=Blah.pl?b=2000,m=1142146847,s=1 date=1142149987]It isn't that hard to bleed the clutch.... I use an ezibleed type set up on the slave which makes it  a one man op.  Have you used the same hole on the actuating lever?
[/quote]

Yeah no I already had used the wrong hole so its in the correct one now. I'll try bleeding it today to see if that solves the problem.

The bleed nipple is higher than the inlet hose so thats not a problem. However during the gearbox swap it was left hanging a few times so this maybe where the leaks occured.

Hopefully won't need the braided hose as I've spent a bit of money recently but if thats the problem I might try a new rubber hose.

Don't have an ezibleed system but I might give Butlers (like Halfords only usefull)or Repco a ring to see if they can help.

[Doig]

The saga continues.

I've had my master cylinder rebuilt, the spring behind the dash that stops the pedal resting on the master cylinder had broken some time ago causing wear on the internal spring etc and stopping it from working correctly. (might pay to check your cars for this before problems arise).

Gear changes now easier but still get stuck occasionally. Looking at getting a 7/8 slave cylinder rather than my current 1. Also think I'll replace the clutch hose which is scored in places but not leaking. I have another growing theory that the use of the odrive is exacerbating the problem as the box worked fine when first installed and the problems arrived later.

Hopefully the above cures the problem I don't want to have to do another clutch replacement >:(

[Doig]

New 7/8 slave seems to have helped problem. Driving this arvo was problem free. Still a very quiet grr click going into reverse but can't think of any old car that doesn't do that.

Heres hoping the solution lasts.

[Crockett]

[quote by=Doig link=Blah.pl?b=2000,m=1142146847,s=6 date=1142198758]
Yeah no I already had used the wrong hole so its in the correct one now
[/quote]

As a matter of interest, which hole did you have it in, that was incorrect, and which hole is it in now, that is correct?

[Greeks]

Bleed nipple should be the top hole  :) pipe to Master cylinder on the bottom.

[Crockett]

Sorry - I misunderstood what you had said.

I originally thought you were referring to the location of the slave cylinder pushrod into the 3-holes on the cross shaft.

I still haven't been able to find anything that documents which one of those three holes is the proper one to use.

It seems to work fine in either the middle or the bottom one but I left it in the bottom one, as it makes the pedal a little lighter.

[Doig]

Mines currently in the middle hole.

This is running a Borg and Beck Clutch plate. This is where my mechanic put it as my new clutch pressure plate was defective and had to be replaced. Big probs clearing gear.

With the faulty QH clutch I had to use the top hole right from the word go.

All my manuals anoyingly say to check what hole it was in before and put it back in their so not much help there I'm afraid.

[Richard B]

Usually 2000:- Middle hole, 2500:- upper hole. Putting in at the bottom might cause that little (reverse) snick you referred to.

[Deleted User]

Alaways use a 7/8" slave this cured mine with a bradied hose and a "reverse" home made bleed system using a fairy liquid bottle!

I had a spring missing on the clutch pedal also -it did for the master before I realised