Clutch job - DIYable ?

[franksm]

Hi folks

Just wondering if a clutch change is a DIY job ? I have a good range of tools, a helper-monkey with strong arms, but no garage and no airtools. Have just changed the headgasket on my W124 coupe out in the driveway, so I'm not completely cack-handed.

My clutch-pedal is sitting a bit higher than on other Stags I have been in, but the car drives fine - reckon that's an indication that I need to renew the clutch.

Cheers

Frank

[Vitesse2l]

Hi,

Do it - you know you want to.

I have done this job (on my own) on the drive. I had ramps for the front wheels and temporarily jacked one rear wheel to get round the propshaft.

Worst aspect is probably the gearbox to engine bolts behind the cylinder heads. Easier to get at if the distributor and coil are removed. You will need to remove the radiator (good time to check the viscous fan?) and mind you don't crush the brakepipe that runs behind the crossmember.

The gearbox is obviously heavy, but once disengaged can be lowered carefully on a trolley jack and is supported by the gearbox tunnel most of the way down. An extra pair of hands is most helpful.

Give the job at least a full morning if all goes well. I would allow a full day.

I replaced the nylon bushes and rubbers at the rear of the box. You will probably need to consider exhaust gaskets and paste too.

These are the things I remember. I am sure there are others.

cheers, Steve

[AlanChatterton]

Why do you need to remove the radiator?

I have just removed the gearbox out of my stag, all you need to do is to disconnect the top hose to allow the engine to realx back onto the bulkhead without putting any strain on the rad.

The brake pipe will not be crushed, as the engine hits the bulkhead leaving the brakepipe with at least 10mm gap between it and the sump.

The top bellhousing bolts are a swine, but if you use a 1/2" socket, a uj and some long extensions, you can do it. Not easy but doable!

We had the gearbox (ok, an auto but the process is virtually the same) in about 4 hours.

Go for it and good luck. Would stongly recommed you get hold of a spare gearbox input shaft to use as a clutch lining tool. Well worth it!

[franksm]

Thanks for that - will make sure I have some spare hands available - and some bloody good weather too obviously !

I'll try cracking loose the bellhouse bolts before going at it whole hog. If the bolts aren't workable with handtools, it's off to the mechanic.

[DJT]

AlanChatterton wrote:

The brake pipe will not be crushed, as the engine hits the bulkhead leaving the brakepipe with at least 10mm gap between it and the sump.

Mm strange! I have done this job half a dozen times and always flipped the brake pipe out of its mounting clips as the sump squeezes it against the cross-member. ROM also warns about this.

I have never removed the radiator to do this job, but I do know that some cars have a lot less space between the fan and the radiator core than mine does, so be guided by how yours looks.

Hardest part of the job is getting the box back up. Last time I did the job (solo) I used a rope hoist from the rafters down through the engine compartment to a rope around the bellhousing. With the pull rope accessible from below, and a trolley jack under the gearbox cross-member, it was relatively simple to hoist the front, jack the back, hoist the front, etc until it aligned with the engine and could be slid in easily.

I agree that, having used clutch alignment tools in the past, but a 1st motion shaft this latest time, this is the best way to go. The box slid in like a knife through butter.

A few other recommendations:
1. Change the spigot bearing whilst you have the box out.
2. Take great care to ensure that the box is aligned correctly. There are 2 special bolts that are a very tight fit in the bellhousing. These ensure the box is aligned properly.
3. Check the flywheel carefully. I suffered from a juddery clutch for years and found that the flywheel had a myriad of tiny cracks in the face. These were too deep to be removed by refacing. The surface also had a few high spots. Replacing the flywheel with a better one, as well as a few other mods, has totally eliminated the clutch judder.
4. Check the cross-shaft bushes. Either replace them or fit another set along with the original ones. This gives twice the support for the cross-shaft. There is plenty of room for two sets.
5. Check the pin that secures the release fork to the cross-shaft. These have a tendancy to shear over time. This will then mean another box out job and sacrificing the cross-shaft to replace. Maybe worth replacing whilst you have the chance.

Safety caution: you are working under a very heavy car and lifting very heavy bits. Always make sure the car is well supported. If the front is on ramps, chock the rear wheels and heave the handbrake on. You will have to rotate the propshaft to get the flange bolts out. This will mean jacking up one rear wheel with the brake off. This is possibly the most hazardous part of the operation.

Good luck.  :)

[AlanChatterton]

Excellent advice from Taylorman, agree completely. It is possible (as these were "handbuilt" cars, that some clearances will be different. Best bet is to check as you go and be aware that somethings may hit, some may miss.

If you put a trolley jack under the gearbox, on the small bump on the bottom of the casting, just behind the drain plug, the box will be pretty well balanced and allow you to jack it back up and line it up with the engine. If you look by eye, you will be able to see when it lines up with the engine back plate. You will be able to litft or lower the angle of the box by pulling or pushing the bellhousing if you support it on the jack as described.

The top bellhousing bolts are tricky. Use a 3/8 " drive and extensions (1/2" are too thick to fit down the side of the chasis rail and the bellhousing, I know, mine didn't fit!) you can undo them.

I is always possible to crack them off with a canked ring spanner from the engine bay before you lower the box, but I chose not to...........

Best of British.......

[Vitesse2l]

Knew there would be some good replies.

Alan - I removed my rad because clearance was very tight, and I didn't want to take any chances. I took the opportunity to flush it through properly while off the car.

As Taylorman says, the manual does indicate a problem with the brake pipe and on my car it could have been trapped between the sump and crossmember. As you say, it may all be down to differences in production.

My experience was that the bellhousing bolts become easier once the engine is tilted back and you have some access from under the car. A helper is useful at this point.

[AlanChatterton]

More the merrier as far as helpers are concerned.

I managed to get my car up onto 4 ramps to get more room under it, then enlisted the help of a "Bradley" (vital tool here!) who has amazingly long arms. Very good for undoing the top bellhousing bolts!

It would have been a very nasty job to do on my own, so yes, extra body always helps!

[franksm]

LOL class. Would love to do the job myself + friend.

Priced the job around and am finding that most mechanics say "4 to 5 hours" for a clutch job, which rings true. However the one and only Stag specialist in Ireland was saying it's a 16-hour job, as the engine needs to come out, along with the gearbox.

I know that's plainly wrong... I was speechless.

Thanks for the comments so far - the only thing stopping me doing it myself is the timing of my mates - holidays getting in the way :-)

[Fuzzy Harris]

If it`s 16 hours at the national minimum houly rate your laffin !!

[AlanChatterton]

Better than 16 hours at Standard garage rates.......(£30 per hour plus!)

Ouch!

[wakaday]

i would pull the engine and box as one. Sometimes the longest route is the quickest.