HairyHerald Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Am i correct in saying the clutch diaphragm needs to be torqued to the flywheel at 24-26lbs-ft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'm sure there are torque settings but I don't worry about these bolts, as long as they're tight they won't go anywhere. It's not like a cylinder head where the torque is important to either avoid blow by or crushing of the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HairyHerald Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 im still having some clutch issues! i have fitted a new flywheel due to sheering a bolt head in the last one!i have the same issues where as the clutch will not disengage.. (previously in no gears)except now with the new flywheel i can get it to almost fully disengage in gear 4 you can just hear the clutch skimming/slipping the pressure plate/flywheel but it will grind if you try any other gear!?im totally shot for ideas..list of what ive done -clutch and master cylinder rebuilds and bleednew braided pipere con throw armnew throw arm pivot pin and bell housing bushings and tolerance ringnew clutch, pressure plate and release bearingalso a new re con fly wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HairyHerald Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 if i start the engine in gears like reverse and first with the clutch depressed and hold it i get the same skimming and am able to lift and drive the car but am not able to get the car out of gear unless i stop the car turn the engine off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Hairy, what size engine do you have? Are you sure all the clutch parts and flywheel are for the same model car? Triumph changed the clutch design for small engined cars several times. The 948 and 1200 Hengines had coil spring clutches. At some point, certainly by the time the small bearing 1300 came out, they'd been upgraded to diaphragm clutches. Later, the diaphragm design changed, so that although the bits look similar and will go together, the clutch won't work unless you use the correct flywheel.For instance, a friend and I fitted a 1500 motor in his Herald but presto, no clutch. We had to fit a 1500 clutch to match the 1500’s flywheel. The more enlightened should be able to help you determine which bits you've got, and whether they'll work together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 4298 wrote:im still having some clutch issues! i have fitted a new flywheel due to sheering a bolt head in the last one!i have the same issues where as the clutch will not disengage.. (previously in no gears)except now with the new flywheel i can get it to almost fully disengage in gear 4 you can just hear the clutch skimming/slipping the pressure plate/flywheel but it will grind if you try any other gear!?im totally shot for ideas..list of what ive done -clutch and master cylinder rebuilds and bleednew braided pipere con throw armnew throw arm pivot pin and bell housing bushings and tolerance ringnew clutch, pressure plate and release bearingalso a new re con fly wheel.ut Have you checked the postion of the slave cylinder?If the push rod is not pushing far enough then adjust the operating Is the dowel pin in the bell housing eg to operate the fork /release bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 PS there is a torque setting for the clutch of 18/20 ft/lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HairyHerald Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Nick_Moore wrote:Hairy, what size engine do you have? Are you sure all the clutch parts and flywheel are for the same model car? Triumph changed the clutch design for small engined cars several times. The 948 and 1200 Hengines had coil spring clutches. At some point, certainly by the time the small bearing 1300 came out, they'd been upgraded to diaphragm clutches. Later, the diaphragm design changed, so that although the bits look similar and will go together, the clutch won't work unless you use the correct flywheel.For instance, a friend and I fitted a 1500 motor in his Herald but presto, no clutch. We had to fit a 1500 clutch to match the 1500’s flywheel. The more enlightened should be able to help you determine which bits you've got, and whether they'll work together.Hey Nick! its a 1300 engine im sure they are the same parts! i ordered them from rimmer bros for a 13/60 ..i mean since changing the fly wheel for a recon one i have actually been able to at least start to see the clutch 'working'michael_charlton wrote:ut Have you checked the postion of the slave cylinder?If the push rod is not pushing far enough then adjust the operating Is the dowel pin in the bell housing eg to operate the fork /release bearing?how would i check the position of the slave cylinder? i mean it can only go in the one way its notched on 1 side with the bleed nipple facing down?how would i adjust the operating of the push rod? i thought it was fixed ??also the dowel pin is defiantly in location! if anything there should be more throw on the arm as the tolerance ring and bushings for the bell housing where almost non-existent!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Would be better if the bleed nipple was in the top hole to get the bubbles out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 4298 wrote:with the bleed nipple facing down?That could well be contributing to your problem. The bleed nipple needs to be at the top otherwise you cannot bleed all the air out. Just swap the pipe and nipple around and try bleeding it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 If all else fails you can elongate the slot to allow the slave cylinder to go further in to the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Steve_Curton wrote:If all else fails you can elongate the slot to allow the slave cylinder to go further in to the bell housing. Exactly..the position is always the same as it is clamped. However, if you remove the slave,and where the recess is for the pinch bolt, grind more away,increasing the length of the recess allowing the slave to move further forward. Then the operating rod play is taken upWe did this with the Spitfire with no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HairyHerald Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 ahhhaa! ive gone one extreme to another the nut has been skipping threads! and letting the slave push itself out of place.sounds crazy stuck a new bolt through just spend the day ajusting it! its drivable but is on the verge of slipping if the lead foot comes out.. dont know how happy i am :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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