BarryH

If you need to get at the back of the fuse block where all the spade connections are you will need to remove the parcel shelf not the glove box.

When you unscreew the plastic top of the damper and pull it slightly out you will see another tube that the damper sits in, fill to the top of that tube.  This will be slightly too much but as someone has already said when you push the damper back it will eject the surplus like wise as the damper goes up and down in use it will eject a little more so will need topping up every so often.  How often?  Depends how much you drive it and how much you make the damper work but checking regularly initially will soon tell you how often you need to do it.  Engine oil is the standard recommendation or something a little thicker if you want to richen the mixture when you put your foot down, some people use automatic gear box oil as a substitute, experiment to see what you prefer.

Try this web site http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ .  It will let you compare 4 needles against your current one but beware the needles do not run in alphabetical order e.g. BH is is closer to BO than BP. It won't tell you what needle to use but will help you find a needle that is say a little richer at the mid point if you think that is what you need for an improvement. Hopefully someone will come along who knows if that is the standard or whether it is a needle suited to the change in gas flows you have with the exhaust and pancake filters.  You might also need a change of springs as is recommended if you have HS4s. I know this isn't the answer to your question but have fun with Minty Lamb. PS There's a hot bed of Triumph owners in the Luton area so it might be worth looking around there or the local villages when you come back to the mainland.

They are average speed cameras so a short burst of speed to overtake a lorry should be capable of being compensated for. You could slow down to 30 immediately after overtaking then every body else can overtake within the limit. Considering the ingenuity of contributors to this forum you must be able to think up ways of coping with the lorries without exceeding an average of 40 mph but no James Bond number plates.

Have you not got a wiring diagram?  That would tell you what colour wires you should have which would be a good starting point.   This might help http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/MKIVwire.jpg From this the white is the ballast resistor wire nb it is built into the wire not a separate component as in older models and white yellow is the 12 volt from the solenoid. As stated before the concept is that when the engine is being cranked it has a 12 volt feed to enhance the spark but once cranking stops it drops to the ballast wire at 6 volts hence a 1.5 ohm coil.  If you are convinced that that the ballast wire has been by passed for a permanent 12 volt you need a 3 ohm coil.  It is not unusual for the ballast wire to be by passed as they do fail with time and are difficult to source and a permament 12 volt spark is assumed to be best.

The ballast wires are renowned for failing and the usual route is to replace with an ignition switch controlled permanent 12 volt supply with a 3 ohm coil. A fairly common fault that comes up on forums is failure of the ignition circuit caused by the failure of the ballast wire.  You can get ballast units like they fitted originally but you would still need to get a good ignition controlled 12 volts to replace the failed ballast wire so what's the point, change the coil or wait for the 1.5 ohm to fail and then change particularly if you like breakdowns (TIC). There is also an occasional failure of electronic ignitions because they don't have a good 12 volt supply so it's a little surprising to see one suggesting you run it on 6 volts via the ballast wire after starting especially when it suggests you can change to 12 volts and a 3 ohm coil which sounds as though the electronics are the same for both.  Perhaps it's just designed to confuse ignoramuses like me.

Will they fit height wise?  They look a bit tall.

The recommendation is for Mk 1 seats mainly because Mk 2s don't fit.  I had them fitted to my Spit and in addition to all the mods mentioned before you needed to move the drivers seat to the center of the car (my right shoulder was in permanent, firm contact with the door) which wasn't really possible without removing the prop shaft passenger side wasn't so bad. A re-padded and covered seat was a better solution and I found a broken tube that needed a quick bit of welding, my first in 40+ years I still have the seats if any one is interested.

One, perhaps unnecessary, word of caution.  Older rims would have been designed for use with tubes and will not be suitable for tubeless.  A tyre fitter I use refused to fit a tubeless on an original 1973 steel because it didn't have the internal retaining lip. As I only wanted it for a spare and the Spit is fitted with Minilites and it wouldn't stay on for long it wasn't a problem.

This is the web site you want: http://www.123ignition.nl/index.php But it looks as though they only make them for 4 & 6 cylinder engines and no V8s. They are also only for use with electronic rev counters not mechanical like ac delcos on spitfires which will need a change of dashboard rev counter head. They are also very expensive compared to say a Petronix/Aldon type set up but if your dissie is worn and needs replacing then a good option. These people do a refurbish and can include electronic ignition as well. http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ Regards

The major problem with the ballast resistor wire is that they break down with age and stop working and definitely should not be used with electronic ignition.  Best thing to do is replace the ballast resitor wire with a 12 volt feed via the ignition switch and change the coil to match.

As the stag tank is horizontal and the spitfire vertical probably not. Rimmer part nos. are TKC2053 for spitfires and 218103 for the stag which seems to confirm it. But if its just the float you might be able to cobble it.

Any large supermarket or look for acetic acid. white vinegar or pickling vinegar.  Don't use malt vinegar waste of good vinegar that's better on fish and chips although I find it it goes well with boiled cabbage or a dressing on salads  (but not after it's been in a petrol tank).

There was a quite a lengthy exchange of views about this last winter. The majority view was that winter tyres really work but that you should really fit them on all four corners.  The other thing that came out of the chat was that winter tyres start to work when temperatures are 7C or less on dry and wet roads and even more when there is snow. Personally I started using winter tyres in the 80's on a Mazda 1.6i then three Cavalier 2.0.  I bought a set of steel wheels from a scrap dealer and fitted them then swapped them every winter/spring.  It seemed to guarantee that we wouldn't get any snow in the south of england but were very useful for our skiing trips to Austria.  The Austrian comment I got was forget how good they were at getting you going and think how good they were at stopping. I don't have any for the Mazda 6 SL I drive so if snows I use the wife's Nissan X Trail. I would have no hesitation in saying if you can afford them buy them particularly if you live in an area that regularly gets snow.  But be careful, other drivers won't know you have got them fitted and it will give them unfounded confidence to drive as fast as you or think you are a maniac.

Try James Paddock there new web site has been up and running for a few months now.