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Having just looked at the genuine Triumph Workshop manual, it tells you to fit the rear bolt first before fitting the rubbers mounts to the front points and doing up the front mountings. A bit late now I guess but worth remembering if there is a next time!

Triumph Stags also have the same overdrive switch and I've found a supplier that has the screws :-)   http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=viewproduct&pid=683&cat=61&sid=sid3bd55b6ddd7523e169606335093c0099

Get a trolley jack underneath it and jack it into position....

They are definitly plain set screws, very tiny diameter. They are not even shown or listed as a sepparate part in the genuine BL Triumph parts catalogue so probably hard to get hold of from a Triumph place except secondhand. Not sure but you may be able to get something the right sort of size from a good modelmakers shop, a jewler that repairs clocks, or they may even be the same sort of size as screws used in glasses so maybe an optician.

The majority of MK3s had D Types, The genuine workshop manual I have at home which is dated Oct 73 (1` month before Mk3 production end) certainly only has details of a D Type included but I do believe a few of the very last of line were fitted with J Types although John Thomason's guide to originality states that no MK3s were fitted with J types at all...

If its got the switch on top of the gearlever then the most common issue is a chaffed or broken wire , the original wires were special flexible silacon insulation wiiires but most have been replaced with normal wires and these tend to chafe through or break pretty frequently. The other thing to check is the solenoid adjustment as if the solenoid rod isn't moving the correct distance it can also cause a problem. One other issue I've had is a broken wire inside the rubber solenoid shroud.

Some people say just run the car and wait until the valves and seats are knackered before worryng about it as it will take a lot of miles for this to happen and chances are something else will break first. Certainly worth doing though if you are rebuilding the Engine or replacing/rebuilding or porting the head. I had an unleaded head on a recon full Engine from John Kippings about 20 years ago, it didn't make much difference to the cost from what I remember so was well worth it.

3141 wrote: Yes he trials a very competitive TR3A and I was talking to him on the Exeter back in January. He mentioned that somebody could manufacture Sabrina engines at about £60k. But in his words, "That's divorce money" ;D Blimey,  I wish my divorce was only costing me £60K  :o  Still it does mean I can have a totally guilt free Ogle at the pictures of Sabrina above  ;),  but that's right off topic!!

I've seen the alfa engined one at Prescott, A very tidy car indeed.

I thought I had invented my own bodge when I used a long bolt with the threads cut off about 20 years ago! Obviously a common solution to a common problem after all :-)

James Paddocks show them on thier website, worth checking if they have any stock?

James Paddocks show them on thier website, worth checking if they have any stock?

Here you go Benny, I'm home now so here's a picture, it didn't show up too well on the photo where I trimmed back the body return flange so I've marked it up. Without doing this the body would have been touching the bracket... Mine are the Triumphtune kit from MOSS, not sure if all the kits are like this or just the Triumphtune variant.

The clearance to the body is rather tight, I cut a Way the return on the bodywork to make clearance. Not at home tonight or I'd post a picture but if you look at my blog and posts from October there is a picture in one of the posts.

Yep, got a proper bearing puller. I only had a shaft from you, not a hub. The shaft from you is the one I'm using, i had one that looked better but that's the one that stripped is thread. Althouhgh the shaft is the bit you can't get new anymore  there seem to be a few around. probably because people have been moving over to CV joints and their old shafts are going soare I suspect! Tim W is bringing a couple of hubs up to Stoneleigh, I've also had a mail from Canley's they have some 2nd hand ones in stock that have been tested with a Dial Gauge so if I get stuck I know I can get one that'll defintly be good for less than a new one. However If you've got a couple that you could bring up it may be useful in case Tim's are not good. I'll be bringing up a vernier and possibly something flat so I can doe some basic checks I think.

OK Guys, sussed it, put the rear face of the hub on a flat surface and measured the distance around the flange and it differed by 2.6mm around the circumference so I've got a bent hub flange. I stripped and rolled the outer halfshaft on a flat surface and it looks straight. Anyone got any decent rotoflex hubs they can take to Stoneleigh?. failing that I least I know new ones are available from Canleys although they are pricey...

Cheers Guys Lots of Options :-) I didn't expect to go to Stoneleigh as I thought I'd be putting the car back together but I reckon I could well be going now. I'm going to have another look at my unit tonight to see if I can work out whcih bits bent. The ammount of run out ought to be obvious and I can always use my old worn halfshaft to quickly rebuild as a test to see if it's the hub. At least I know it's straight.

Those of you that read the blogs on the forum may have seen that I've been trying to rebuild the halfshaft assembly on my GT6. It failed the MOT for a 2nd consecutive year with a nearside rear wheel bearing. The last bearing only l;asted 1200 miles and tyeh one before that 3000 miles so something wasn't quite right. I've rebuilt the halfshaft with a new bearing, rotoflex coupling and a replacement 2nd hand outer halfshaft and hub as both the hub and shaft components were worn on my car which may have been the issue. Having stripped the thread on one of my 2nd hand halfshafts and used my reserve spare I've now got the whole assembly and upright built up with brake drum etc. I had expected to be able to refit it to the car tomorrow night, however I've now got another issue. I've got some serious lateral run out on the assembly, about 2mm at a radius of 55mm (just outside the wheel studs) on the drum face. having checked in case teh drum wasn't seated prioperly I've ascertained that the same run out exists on the hub face. Calculating this out it owuld be an enormous 12mm of run out at the wheel rim, definitly too much!! The bearing is running nice and smoothly so I suspect that it's a bent outer halfshaft, but I guess it could also potentially be the hub. I tghink what I really need is a compete 2nd hand rotoflex halfshaft and upright assembly that is of known goof order. Not easy to find. I think I'll be off to Stoneleigh this weekend but I know I'll be licky to find one. I Wish I'd bought this one which was on ebay very recently. The listing got removed so I guess it was sold outside of ebay in the end, looked really good and although it was £295 it would have been worth it to save the hassle. The listing said it had been rebuilt using the Churchill Tools and with all new bearings, bushes and rotoflex coupling etc although I doubt it was a metalstick one otherwise it would have said so. It was for sale somewhere in the North of England from memeory. If anyone knows who was selling it as I suspect iot was a business seller I'd be interested to know in case they are building anymore... Anyone else out there who has any halfshafts or hubs that are definitly good give me a shout if you want to sell them....

The flange along the top in yopur photo looks pretty ropey as well, not a very high quality product... I'd have expected better from Heritage.

The hinges and spring all come out as an assembly. Undo the 6 bolts attaching the tailgate to the hinge assembly. Disconnecting the rear heater connectors as you go. Take the cover off the interior lamp, disconnect the connectors, and take off the plastic hinge cover. Remove the 8 bolts attaching the hinge/sprong assembly to the body and take out the assembly as a unit.

Not far at all from Chinn Towers Bill, 15v miles tops you've been there before with Jason a few years back. You'd be more than welcolme to join us, also that'll make sure jason gets off his butt and comes down ;-)  ...

Welcome aboard guys! Joe contacted me through facebook and team Torpedo are making a guest appearance at our monthly CT local area meet on 3rd September, they've now booked into a hotel up the road. I'm obviously puttingthe owrd about with our regulars to persuade them to ensure thay get along to the meet that mobth to make Joe and the guys welcome and get thier Triumph's out of the garage... If any of the rest of you out in CT land that are within striking distance of North Hampshire fancy coming along that night then please do, in fact you are welcome anytime of course! We meet at the Crooked Billet just north of Hook on the A30, about a mile away from Junction 5 of the M3 so quite easy to get to. Carl 32 valves has suggestted we have a bit of a meal at the Crooked Billet that night which sounds like a good idea to me....Club Torpedo will need to get fed and watered and the Crooked Billet certainly do some nice scoff...

I got the one in the picture off of ebay, it's 3 metres of the metal strip and you cut to length, so will be well up to the job in terms of length. Thanks for the tips Marcus, especially making sure I put the clip on first before taking the bolts out, I could easily have been caught out on that one ;-)

Saw this on ebay and decided it would make a great improvised rotoflex coupling compression tool. I need to replace one of the outer drive shafts on the GT6 and the half shaft in question has a nearly new genuine metalstic Rotoflex coupling fitted which I want to re-use. To do this I will need to compress the coupling in the way that the temporary metal band does that they come with when they are new. Withe the kit below I can make up a jubilee kit of just the right size to do this....

michael_charlton wrote:Four pages of RBRR write up and pictures in the Classic car Weekly..............nearly all the bloomin entrants named.. ??) Well done Mat.....see Local Area`s section Got a copy at last, called into WH Smiths both yesterday and today and they haven't got this weeks edition in yet, still got the one from 17th Oct on the shelves... Anyway had a brainwave tried Sainsbury's today which was almost next door and they had a copy. Nice write up Matt,  Picture of me watching the car getting welded by Derek with my nice bright red overalls on :-)