cook1e
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Everything posted by cook1e
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JohnD wrote:Make up a piston stop, to help find TDC. Even with a dial gauge, the piston rests at the top of the stroke through a significant number of degrees. Deciding where TDC is can be a problem. But half way up the stroke, the piston is moving maximally for every degree. Stop the piston about halfway up the bore - the absolute point doesn't matter. Then reverse it and stop at the same point from the other direction. Note, using your degreeing wheel, where that is, and TDC is exactly halfway between. You need a mechanical stop to be accurate. A plate or bar across the bore, between head studs, with a bolt through it down into the bore, will do the job. Can't send you a pic at this moment - I'm skiving at work - but if you ask I can do so from home. John A Little tip (from MOSS), a bmw mini wheel bolt is the same thread as a spark plug and makes an excellent piston stop for finding tdc in conjunction with a timing disc. I got one on ebay for £1.25 with free postage. Also don't buy a timing degree wheel, just download and print one off from the internet, plenty available, I used this one:- http://www.gabma.us/tools/DegreeWheel.bmp Lastly, if you search on youtube there is a really good set of 3 video tutorials by MOSS on how to set up valve timing. Here's a link to the first one:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvg1RKqexco&list=PL272A5378FCE985B8
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I used the standard Triumph 2 part bushes on my rear Koni's (part number 102987) , fitted with no issues and I find it easier to fit the rear shocks into place with just one side of the bush at the bottom, then add the other side afterwards if that makes sense. That's the reason I didn't go for polybushes as I didn't like the one piece design... My Front Konis still have the original bushes fitted.
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And this is the Lockheed version. Yes I've had both types fitted to my car over the years! The Original Girling one was going to cost more to fix than a replacement Lockheed one and the Lockheed one is superior as it's a higher boost ratio so it was a no brainer for me to swap over to the more modern Lockheed servo.
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Powerstop is the Girling version. Looks like this, I'll post a picture of the Lockhead version in a sec
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My GT6 used to suffer with a seized clutch pretty regularly back along when I lived in a previous house which had a less than watertight garage that tended to be a bit damp. The method I used to use is not for the faint hearted as it's rather dangerous but it works every time... You will need to get the brakes working first though. The good thing is that you won't have to take the car out on the road which is useful if it is without MOT or sorned. Jack up the rear end and ensure it is secured extremely well on axle stands. Ensure that the front wheels are very securely chocked so the car can't possibly move forwards or backwards. Start up the car and get the engine nice and hot. Stop the engine, wedge the clutch pedal down with a sturdy piece of wood the right length so it holds the clutch pedal fully down wedged against the cross member just in front of the seat. Put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear and start it again so the rear wheels spin away. Give it some revs to increase the efefctive rod speed and stamp hard on the brake pedal like you were doing an emergency stop. The clutch will either free up with a big bang or the engine will stall. If it stalls repeat the excercise until it the clutch frees up. Even when my clutch was very siezed up it would never take more than 4 or 5 attempts. no doubt there will be some comments about how dangerous this method is but I come from an age before health and safety regulations made everyone a big wuss!
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Nick_Jones wrote:To clarify..... for a rotoflex car you will need a puller for the rear hub, but any decent 3-legged puller will suffice whereas the swing axles cars really need the special "flying saucer" one. Nick I always use this puller when stripping my rotoflex halfshafts, a bit more secure than a 3 legged puller and not very expensive to buy compared witrh the heavy duty puller required to break the taper on non rotoflex halfshafts.
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8017 wrote:Cheers Andy It must be turbo charged I guess so with 300 bhp it must go like stink it has to be the fastest most bhp GT6 here in Britain ? :) :) Oh and its a very nice shade of blue too :) Colin Geer's chipped and high boost Sierra Cosworth Turbo engined GT6 is kicking out about the same so it would be debateable which would be quickest. The T4 would be the quickest up Norf and Colin's the quickest down sowf though, that's for sure :-)
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Picture of under the bonnet below, a really tidy job. The other thing to note is all that modified bodywork is crafted in steel, not the normal fibreglass and plod Job. The owner did introduce the guys who did the bodywork but I've forgotten the name of the company but I seem to remember it was up in Yorkshire. Apparently the owner keeps getting asked if the arches are cut out of a Porsche but apparently they are hand crafted from scratch which is pretty impressive.;
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That does seem strange then, I definitely passed on the details to the guy with the Herald less than 3 weeks ago and I know he ordered a new old stock CD150 carb from them, presumably via phone... It was him that mentioned that Carburettor Hospital told him that they bought up a load of Stock from Triumph when the factory closed. I went there in the early 90s as I used to live over that way, I went to get my carbs reconditioned by them and they offered me a brand new pair of carbs with mine in part exchange for less than they would charge to recondition mine. They were from the later model GT6 but with a bit of fettling of the linkages they fitted fine and the mixture was spot on without any adjustment, I just had to balance them... I think it was about £200 quid for the pair back then...
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I I pointed a guy on one of the Facebook Triumph groups in his direction about a week ago and he purchased a Strindberg for his herald so yes they are still in business. It could of course be holiday time this week?
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Andrew Turner is good for rebuilt Triumph Carbs but if you want brand new the Carburettor Hospital in Southend have loads of new old stock Triumph Carbs. Apparently they bought up a load of stock from the Triumph factory when it closed down. http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/
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On the Beeb News website today:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-23619783
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I've always thought that the alloy ones are a bit dubious in design as they would conduct some heat to the carbs across the inlet flanges whereas the original Triumph design has some built in insulation. This is not based on practical experience just my logical thoughts for what they are worth (probably not much!)...
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As they are not too expensive it's worth replacing both the radiator cap and the thermostat. As "nang" says you may have damaged the thermostat so worth replacing that, if it's old it could be sticking closed as well which will cause overheating. Also if it's an old radiator cap the spring can lose their tension and the seals can also start to leak. If this happens then the system will not be able to reach the correct pressure and will boil over at a lower then required temperature.
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My blog explains how to set up Strombergs but TBH SUs are pretty damn similar to set up, Jet adjustment is under the main carb body on an SU... http://cook1e.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/tuning-carbs.html
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When my 3.89 diff went bang in the GT6 I replaced it with a 3.63 built into a 6 stud case by Canleys, recon with new crown wheel and pinion. 1500 Spifires got fitted with 3.63 diffs even when fitted with overdrive so a more powerful/torquey 2L or 2.5L has no problem pulling the ratio. I Certainly find it much better then the 3.89 which was just too busy when cruising on the motorway. Most importantly the late 3.89 is the strongest of all the Triumph Diffs, most important if you have a 2L or 2.5L and use the power regularly.
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Don't know, can't get mine to stay on even with new barbed clips they keep popping up at the front on a long run!
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Definitely steep, my classic insurance went down again this year with Peter James. Now £87 with a £100 excess, fully comp, unlimited mileage, European wide breakdown cover and an agreed value of nearly £7K on a GT6. Seems that trying to insure a car over here when you are not a resident makes it at least 4 x more expensive and as for the excess £1000 is ridiculous!# To put it into perspective, I insure a 2 year old BMW for less than you are being quoted on your Triumph's and with an excess of £150....
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Canley Classics do a conversion kit, however because you are looking at everything new/recon it's not cheap but would be the easy way out if money is no object. However the picture on thier website is useful for givnmg you an idea of what you need as it's the MKIv D type kit that is shown in the photo ;-) http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/overdriveconversionkit.html&xsl=product.xsl
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In fact Canley's even list a 6 stud 3.63 dif as an option on thier website, ref number D12N http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/diffs.html&xsl=product.xsl
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When I had a new (or more correctly excghange recon) diff on my GT6 a few years back Canley Classics built me a 3.63 (ie Spit 1500) spec diff in a six hole casing to fit the rotoflex GT6. So you can definitly use the 6 hole case with late Spitfire internals.
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Yep, as Rich say's the kits normally come with all the bits you need. You may just need to get some cable and a crimping tool with some crimp connectors plus some cable ties are useful to make a professional job of it.
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I use an air horn set up on mine, much louder and a nicer tone.... Plenty available on ebay or your local motor factors, expect to pay between £10 and £20...
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Goody wrote:Sorry Tim. I am sure we are all thankfull for your work. While I know Steve and I got a endurance award, I would still like to see a list of who and what cars got any others? I do not mean the finishers awards. Can't wait to see just what ours looks like, but Steve will have it in September and we will have our pictures taken with it. An awards list from the Club Dinner is in the latest version of Club Torque Bill.
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Having just looked at the genuine Triumph Workshop manual, it tells you to fit the rear bolt first before fitting the rubbers mounts to the front points and doing up the front mountings. A bit late now I guess but worth remembering if there is a next time!
