sparky_spit
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Everything posted by sparky_spit
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A light smear of Blue Hylomar on both sides of the headgasket around the oil feed hole to the rockers.
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Normally there should be 2 marks on the cam sprocket, one near to the bolt holes which is to denote how the sprocket fits rotationally onto the cam, and the other mark is out near the teeth. This one is used to align with the single mark on the crank sprocket. Normally there are no other marks, unless someone has added them. Taking no notice of TDC at this stage, with an imaginary straight line running through the centre of the crank and the centre of the camshaft, both marks need to be in line with each other and the imaginary centreline, and closest to each other. If the chain is fitted one tooth out it will be obvious. Once you get that right the camshft is now locked in the correct position in relation to the crankshaft. In theory this is all you need to do. If you want to check all is correct (and fine tune if you have a vernier sprocket, or want to mark and reverse a standard sprocket to see if that makes it better, to get it 100% spot on) then you set both inlet and exhaust valve clearances on No4 cylinder to 80 thou, turn the crank until they are both on the rock, No1 is at TDC, and see how equal the clearances on No4 are now - as in Richard B's post on here. If you are using the correct marks, and the marks are in the correct, original, places on the sprockets, it's impossible to set it wrongly, within the confines of the normal tolerances of course. I don't know how better to explain it really....
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Have you got a Haynes manual? Look at page 62 and the bottom right diagram, which shows the timing marks on the sprockets. If your new Mk3 grind cam does not have the mark on the end, put one with a centre punch in about the right place. Compare with your old 1500 can to get the right position. It does not have to be super accurate as the cam sprocket can only go on in 2 postions, all you need it for is to see if the cam sprocket needs to be moved 180deg round or not. The crank sprocket can only go in one position as it keyed to the shaft. The diagram should explain all. If you don't have that diagram I'll scan it for you.
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If the head has been torqued down onto a new gasket then it's not ideal to remove it again. If it's a Payen gasket you'll probably find that some of the plasticky/silcone type coating may stick to the head or block, and then it's knackered. If it's an OEM type, or cheaper type, you may get away with it. Why take it off? If you are concerned about finding TDC for valve timing purposes, then a stick down the plughole would be accurate enough, bearing in mind you are only ever going to be within the tolerance accuaracy of one sprocket tooth's degree of rotation. Unless you have vernier sprockets of course
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2597 wrote:is it ok to take head back off after fitting gasket? I think my TDC may have been accidentally moved when head went back on oops Scott If the head has been torqued down onto a new gasket then it's not ideal to remove it again. If it's a Payen gasket you'll probably find that some of the plasticky/silcone type coating may stick to the head or block, and then it's knackered. If it's an OEM type, or cheaper type, you may get away with it. Why take it off? If you are concerned about finding TDC for valve timing purposes, then a stick down the plughole would be accurate enough, bearing in mind you are only ever going to be within the tolerance accuaracy of one sprocket tooth's degree of rotation. Unless you have vernier sprockets of course.
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I agree with him ^^^. Assuming this is a Canley's Mk3 grind-on-a-large-journal cam then you just time it using the marks on the sprockets, exactly the same as if you were putting your 1500 cam back in.
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Who's got what to do for 2012?
sparky_spit replied to Radders's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
thescrapman wrote:I suspect Steves bearings are the Tin/ally ones rather than the tri-metal. Crank is alledgedly still on STD's. Very careful measuring needed I think. Cheers Colin I don't think they can be. If they were tin/alloy ones you would not see the copper. Only tri-metal ones will wear through to the copper like this? If they are on standard size, then yes, they will need very careful measuring as something is definitely not right here. Steve - I've got a set of 4 micrometers going from 1" to 4" if you want to borrow them? -
Looking good. If it's just flash rust on the studs then I would just clean them up and re-use; if they are pitted then I'd use some others. Personally, I'd use good S/H ones rather than new ones, but that's just me. Use whichever rocker set has the least wear - I don't think there's any mechanical difference between them, but I may be wrong.
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Who's got what to do for 2012?
sparky_spit replied to Radders's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
391 wrote: I share your pain sincerely.......... A rolling road session at Mowatts yesterday confirmed my suspicions and that my newly rebuilt engine has some serious rumbling noises of the big end variety! (Just for info, It recorded 109 bhp at the rear wheels, but they didnt want to take it over 5000 revs because of the rumbling!) Engine removal(Again!) is planned over the next few days :( I'd better not sell the estate just yet! :-/ Oh dear, that's not good news. Oddly enough, when you were behind me a few Wednesdays ago, going round the Dengie, I thought I heard rumbling/knocking behind me but thought it couldn't be you as you'd just had a freshly rebuilt engine. I assume it's going back to Carlow's? -
Rings supplied with AE pistons have different rings for top and middle. The middle rings have a taper to aid oil scraping and the top side of this ring is identified by the printed marking.
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Who's got what to do for 2012?
sparky_spit replied to Radders's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
thescrapman wrote:Well it seems I broke the PI on Monday , I suspect the strain of hauling 3 fat blokes and a mountain of luggage down the LeMans and back again (but with added ill-gotten gains on the way back) was too much for it. Either a UJ or Driveshaft or teh diff. And itneeds a new coil, and a new steering rack. Best get me finger out! :-) Which one? Green or Blue? PI that is, not finger. -
Friction plate round the wrong way?
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Is the "ridge" you refer to proud of the journal surface, or is it really a score, below the journal surface? It would be unusual to have a proud ridge in that position, but quite common to have a score there, usually caused by a particle of grit entering the bearing via the oilway. A ridge can be taken out fairly successfully, a score less so.
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2597 wrote:Think I will try some plastiguage and see how it compares. What type would i need as never used it before? Plastigauge. It's like Plastiscene for grownups. I've used PL-A, which covers 1 thou up to 7 thou. Type PL-B does 4 thou up to 10 thou, and so on.
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Another thought... if you are measuring the ID of the shells when they are torqued up inside the rod, with an internal micrometer, then I'm not sure that's a valid measurement? Would the fact that the journal is not present inside the shells make them distort slightly, giving you this odd reading? I would think the most accurate way to measure the clearance is with good old Plastigauge? You can't go wrong with that.
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2597 wrote:Just taken another look at the B/E journals and mic'd. Readings as follows: Haynes manual says spec is 1.8750 - 1.8755 Crank has previously been reground as it has .010 shells. Rod caps torqued with .010 shells in and ID = 1.867 That crank journal mic'd at OD= 1.8675 What do you guys think????????? Is that with the new .010 shells in the rod? If so, the crank is on upper spec and the shells are half a thou too thick? If you tighten the rod onto the crank, does it turn? What about with an old set of shells in?
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I've bought new big end bolts but plan to use the existing main cap bolts. I tend to agree with Colin about the ridge on one of your big end journals but it depends upon how pronounced it is. If it's sticking up then polishing is a good option, using 400 - 600 grit wet'n'dry lubricated with WD40 and rotated with a strap (the flat side of an old fan belt is good as you can get about a turn and a half round it) will take it down a bit, but make sure you don't go beyond the spec size. If it's a groove then it depends how deep it is. A slight groove, polished up a bit, is acceptable, but a deep gouge probably isn't. Only you can tell really, by feeling with your finger nail. I've got a few light scores on my crank which seem to polish up okay and I'm happy with them. In a perfect world you could regrind the whole thing and be 100% happy and be £180 lighter, or just be happy that you've reduced the problem to somewhere where you feel okay with it. Purists may shudder, but if it was too bad to polish up you could just get that one journal reground and then put .020 shells in just that one big end?
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I'll be following this thread with interest Scott, as your engine spec is more or less the same as my 1500 still sitting in shiny bits on the bench. I even notice you have the same engine stand as me. Mine should have been finished a year ago. I'm using the excuse that I've still to decide on whether to drill the centre main oil feed or not before I build it. When you've done yours, and worked out what jetting and advance curve works best with the Mk3 cam in the 1500, I can steal all your hard won info for my engine ;) That's another good reason to delay doing mine. Regarding core plug sealant; I would use Wellseal but I know others have used other types, including silicone sealant. When this particular engine was built, about 8 years ago I think (by a well known builder), white silicone was used everywhere like it was going out of fashion. Lastly, it's nice to see you go to all the trouble of getting "Spitfire" monogrammed workshop rags....
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cliftyhanger wrote:id is the chassis. Rest can be replaced. And remember that the "chassis number" is the commission number on the plate on the nearside front bodytub. Don't under any circumstances give the DVLA any other number which might, for example, be on a tag on the chassis itself, as this will open the door to bureacratic hell.
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I'd be careful about how much, and what you use, to lubricate the bores and rings on assembly. If you use a good quality oil with lots of ZDDP you run the risk of them being over-lubricated and consequently never bedding in properly. This could mean you could be burning oil with glazed bores forever. It's a fine line between no lubricant and too much of the wrong kind. Many people say to use cheap oil for running in and only a very light smear on bores, pistons and rings. However, if the engine is going to sit for a while before use it could risk the rings marking the bores in storage?
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Glad to see he was wearing protective footwear.
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Sounds like you have sorted it but if you ever feel like making the slave pushrod into the deluxe version, just make it adjustable for length. This is a common mod on Minis to get the clutch bite just right in the pedal travel. I've seen 2 versions; one with a threaded insert and locknut, and the other with a threaded sleeve that has a righthand thread in one end, and a lefthand thread in the other. This means you don't even have to disconnect it to adjust it; it works on the same principle as a yacht's rigging screw.
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Okay good. PM replied to, and I'll post it on Monday. Cheers, Mike
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Okay good. PM replied to, and I'll post it on Monday. Cheers, Mike
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Re-reading your post above, I'm not sure this is the right bit anyway, as the lever is not L shaped?