sparky_spit

MWG445 wrote: from the Enfield Independent. I didn't know we had paid staff. ;) Any vacancies? Jim. Yes, there's a vacancy on the committee for resident wine taster?

I echo all the above. I fitted a Honeybourne one about 4 years ago and it took many, many hours to get it looking as bad as it does.

Are Toby and Tom okay from the "crashed" Hurricane?

97679 wrote:I'm not sure which car had any American in it I'm afraid.     Pat Barber was in Tim Hunt's white TR4 and Bill Goodwin was in Steve Povey's blue Vitesse. Both Pat and Bill are American and over here for the event. I guess you mean Bill, as a Vitesse is nearer in shape (in the dark) than a TR4.

Crikey Phil, you're keen!  But well done mate, good effort!

I have to say that the Telford/Kidderminster Mafia cars are looking pretty darned smart. Well done chaps!

I feel worn out and in need of a rest after reading Dave Pearson's blog and Chris Sherrington's T6 build thread.... And it's only Wednesday. I'll probably be on oxygen by Thursday night.

Tim, Nick is right. My ammeter does exactly the same.  It's because you have your +12v feed to the relay (and foglights) is on the "wrong" side of the ammeter.  It does not matter as long as you are happy that you know what is going on. In fact anything that I've connected like this would indicate an incorrect ammeter reading, such as my Brantz and rally timer, but the current drain is so small it does not register, unlike 110 watts worth of drain (about 10 and bit amps, depending upon battery state). Mike

Gt6s wrote: Is sensor position not covered by the software ? I know mine is but then I am not on Megasquirt. I don't know but it would be good if it is. BTW this will be Megajolt, not Megasquirt. Can someone tell me? All I need to worry about then is in/out  adjustment to cater for the air gap. I take it the sensor is threaded and has 2 locknuts?

You win, I lose. Especially Nick as he got the A series bit right.  See attached picture, which shows a 1500 Spitfire pulley (on the left) and a 1275 A-series one off the Mini (on the right).  I must have noticed the Mini one a while back in the garage and thought it was the Spitfire one. Both engines are in bits at the moment, so that's my excuse. Lots of excellent suggestions above. I've got a lathe so I'm going down MarkDeTriomphe's route of making a small shoulder on the back of the pulley to locate a Triggerwheels triggerwheel, and bolting/loctiting it on. This takes all the effort out of trying to keep it concentric whilst drilling/welding/whatever. Then a sensor bracket welded on the timing chain cover, with enough scope for rotational adjustment. Job done, well, in my head anyway. Thanks guys. 10/10 as ever.

It's got a Wharfedale Linton glued to its roof?

339 wrote:On the Gt6 I bolted it the engine fan boss. This does mean that the trigger wheel is on the front of the pulley and if I need to change the fan belt I will need to remove the sensor to do so. I had the crank balanced with the wheel in place but didn't position it.  sods law says that when I came to fitting the Vr sensor the wheel needed to be rotated about 80deg .  This hasn't affected the balance as far as I can tell. Yes, thinking about it, with all that mass in the crank/flywheel/clutch cover/pulley whirling around, especially around the periphery, a small bit of missing steel a few inches from the centre is going to be inconsequential isn't it? Clive - with regard to having no rubber in there, what is it that allows the outer part to sometimes slip on the inner?

1381 wrote:Don't remember seeing rubber anywhere on my 1500 crank pulley? I bought a spare one off ebay that someone had welded a trigger wheel to. Whatever you do, it needs to be rugged. I thought a standard 1500 Spitfire pulley had the centre part and the outer part bonded together with high density rubber.  It's this which sometimes, with age and deterioration, allows the outer part to slip round on the inner and thus making the TDC marker appear in the wrong place. Can someone who knows for certain advise?  If I'm wrong I'll just weld it on.

When the rebuilt 1500 engine goes back in next year I might drag myself into the 21st Century and use Megajolt at some point. Now is the time to fit a trigger wheel in readiness for when that might happen.  2 questions: I was going to weld the trigger wheel on, but am having second thoughts as the pulley is the embedded rubber anti-vibration type, and welding might melt and damage this. Is it best to bolt it on? What have others done? Also, all the bottom end rotating components have already been balanced, including the pulley. As long as I use equidistant fixings, will the missing tooth be significant enough to upset the balance to any degree? I don't want to rebalance it all, as it was expensive enough as it is. Presumably a bent sheet wheel will have less impact than one of those thicker flat ones?

I've got a thicker wooden Mountney wheel and boss I'll swap for your Motolita if you want? PM if interested.

I hope he does do it; it will be a an incredible achievement in such a short space of time. Mind you, his blog has not been updated for 4 days.......  ;)

I'd say AAQs are about right.  One rough guide to checking if you want richer needles or not (and it is rough....) is to use some choke while accelerating through the flat spots/poor performnce area. I don't mean just pulling it out fully, but doing some checking first to see how much dashboard knob travel you need to get to the point where the jets start to move downwards, and also how much extra you need to move them a couple of millimetres at a time. Then go out on the road and try it several times as you accelerate and see if performance improves or not. It's not going to tell you what needles you need, but it will give you an indication of whether you need richer ones or not.  Ideally you need a rolling road session, see Paul B's thread on 125 Distributor in his 1500 Spitfire.

I have to ask...  Is Dave really going to use the Herald he is doing some minor preparation on at the moment, as described in his blog?  Or is this just a wind-up? There's less than 3 weeks to go, for God's sake. I thought Chris was sailing a bit close to the wind with his T6 build, but if Dave is really doing all this work and still makes it to the start on time, then he deserves a medal.

Hi Chris - mine will be in the post tomorrow. A bit like my road tax.....

Hi Bill - I too am marshalling at The Plough for the start and will be coming down the A12.  If you get no takers, who are going down the M11, I can make a detour and pick you up.  Getting there for 11:30 might be a struggle, but let's see what pans out. Cheers, Mike

Thanks for putting those pictures up on here John, It's nice to see all (or most) of the current racing Triumphs, after hearing about some of them. I'd have liked to have been there, but couldn't make it unfortunately. Car 44 looks interesting. Is that Connero bodied?

Team Banks has unfinished business with a certain Alpine pass. We're both looking forward to it and Tristan has already provisionally booked time off work.

cliftyhanger wrote: ...Will need the lip which retains the spinning washer lathed off.... "lathed off"?????!!!!... Surely you mean "turned down"?  0/10, must try harder, see me after school. Take a hundred lines, stupid boy. I hope you don't cover for Metalwork lessons too  :P

I've got 3 point Sparco ones in mine, fited to original fixing points, They fit well but are a faff to adjust. I agree with the points raised about a central rear mount but other considerations have had to take priority. Even with it offset I'm convinced it would be better protection that the standard belts. The only way you are really going to know for sure is find out the hard way unfortunately.

I've used Vinylcote on 2 occasions in the past, once for pale blue Cortina seats to black, and more recently for lime green Mini seats to black.  My son has also used it for light brown door cards to red.  All worked really well except for some wear on the door cards under the pull handles where people's fingers scratched the red off a bit, as they pulled the doors shut. As with Ted, good prep and about 3 coats were used.  Not dirt cheap at £10 for a 300ml/400ml -ish rattlecan, as about 4 or 5 were needed each time, but cheaper than buying new seats, etc