sparky_spit

Hi Mike - both my 3.63 and 3.89 recon diffs came from Anglian Triumph with 6 hole casings.  This is not to say that a standard 3.63 casing is 6 hole, as mine may have been reconned into 4.11 casings, but it's reasonable to assume that they are and that swingspring cars came from the factory with blanking plugs in the centre holes. I'm not sure about using just 4 studs for a fixed spring.  If I'm correct above, then it's not an issue.  If not, then I'd take some expert advice. After all, 6 studs would not have been specified for no reason? Hope your personal thing works out for you.

The two Comma 20/50 mineral oils that are common here are Comma "Motorway" and Comma "Sonic". Comma Motorway, in the blue plastic cans, is of lesser quality and only really fit for running in or use in engines that you don't care too much about, in my opinion. Comma Sonic, in the yellow plastic can, is very good and has better additives specification (ZDDP, etc) than many more expensive oils.  Marcus (on here, and a respected tinkerer and fount of knowledge) did some reading up on its spec and concluded that it was indeed better in may respects to a lot of well known mineral performance oils, and has used it for a long time in his very quick GT6).  At about £16 for 5L it is quite a bit cheaper than VR1, for example.

6797 wrote:Since the threaded "peg" at the bottom of the front upright (the bit that snaps off) is hollow to allow lubrication - how dumb would it be to thread that hole, screw in a HT bolt and then lubricate with something like the "one shot" swivel grease from a land rover? Not that I'd ever do it... jut wondering how bad and dumb it would be? Exactly this is a mod that is/was being investigated by "Vegas Steve" (not sure his username on here) but I'm not sure where he's got with it.  His idea was to drill out the oilway right up the threaded part and well into the main part of the casting, tapping it and then screwing in a long HT bolt, about 6 to 8mm dia. He was then going to drill and tap a nipple hole near the top of the trunnion. I think one of the issues was being able to mount the link accurately enough to drill and tap it, although I would think the existing hole would act as a pretty good pilot and it would almost align itself.  I was going to give it a try too, on a scrap one to start with, but it's currently at about 150 down my "things to do" list.

To answer the grease Vs EP90 question....  When under load there is a high degree of contact pressure between the upper faces of the trunnion threads and the lower faces of the vertical upright threads. EP oil is designed to maintain lubrication under this extreme pressure (that's why it's called EP oil) whereas grease isn't. Simples. Mind you, I didn't know this until Kevin R explained it once.

Mik Davies gets his race Spitfire 1500 reving well enough.  When I was chatting to him once, discussing his engine and how well it revs, I was convinced he must be talking about a small crank 1300 but, no, it is a well engineered 1500.  I forget exactly what his redline is set at, but it is in racing 1300 territory with good power right up to the limit.

2597 wrote: Hi Mike Yes, i remember you mentioning similarities. Ahh, just noticed you mention yellow springs. I havent put those in mine. What is the advantage with yelloe springs Mike? Rolling road wont be for a while. But as soon as it has MOT, it will be on its way to RR though. cheers Well I'm no expert, but yellow springs are stronger than standard and seem to be the recommendation to go with AAQ needles when using a tubular manifold, K&Ns, and some mild head work like port matching, short side radius smoothing, etc. I've also got the late Mk4 head with the bigger valves, and this give about 9.6:1 CR on a 1500 (if I remember right). This set up was done originally by Clive Manvers, when the engine was in another car, and ran really well, but I'm not sure whether he just guessed at AAQ/yellow springs or came to that outcome from experience and/or a RR session. So please don't take what I've said as gospel as I don't really know much about it personally, and you can only really tell what spring/needle combination you need for your own engine by proper testing on that engine. Maybe someone who knows this stuff properly can comment on why a stronger spring is desirable? My engine is going back together in the same state of tune except for a Mk3 camshaft (like yours) and a cold air feed/TimW airbox with MGB stub stacks.  I'm using an Amethyst box to give me control over the advance curve, mapping it initially for a Mk3 curve.

Jimmmy0_0 wrote: Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this I think the words "Matt Helm" is the answer to the the question.  He has previous.  

Hi Scott - I'm interested to see your results as your engine is very similar to my, as yet still unfinished, 1500.  I'd be very interested to see what advance curve you end up using to match the Mk3 camshaft and HS4s with AAQ/yellow springs. Mike

Hi Stuart - good luck for the 24th!  I still have blanks in the Mini-Series calendar for May, Aug and Sept.  What Hexham events are there in those months?

Finish building the new engine, fit it and run it in; fix the gearbox leak; fit new front uprights/stub axles/wheel bearings; weld up the chassis and bodytub cracks; replace both driveshaft UJs; rewire underdash and replace heater motor; new brake pads and shoes; and fit mappable ignition, stub stacks and TimW Airbox and tune it. Fit cup holder. Not necessarily in that order.

Last one..

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Too lengthy to summarise really John, so I've scanned it and added it here over 4 posts:

7163 wrote:Premiere Classe Calais Centre-Gare Free ParkingAccommodation Type: Small Hotel   A hotel with a more intimate atmosphere than a larger hotel, offering fewer rooms, staff members and/or services; all rooms have private bathroom facilities. Okay that was scary but you STILL get a round! We are booked in here too.  I did try the Kyriad but they said they had a load of rough sounding types already packing the place out, so we thought we'd go upmarket at the Premiere Classe Calais Centre-Gare. We only paid £41 which was very good, but looking closer at where it is, I'm now wondering if that's for the full night, or just the hourly rate? Maybe the "intimate atmosphere" and "services" you mention above might be a bit more intimate than we have bargained for?

I use modern synthetic two-stroke oil in my Yamaha and it smells of nothing really.  I can see a market opportunity here for an "Essence of Nostalgia" additive to flog to bikers of a certain age. If anyone really wants to find out the truth about the effects of ethanol in petrol, especially the specific conditions under which it releases the water it has absorbed, you want to read an article by Steve Cooper (an ex-petrochemist) in the March issue of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics.

mpbarrett wrote: Dont be sure, during the last 10CR I was breathalysed at 2am in a small village in the middle of France.... I was ok but was told to turn off the front spot lights. They had 4 policemen and 2 cars ready to catch us! Mike We were a few minutes behind you most of the way down and got exactly the same treatment, Tristan was breathalysed and of course was ok. One Gendarme got down on his knees and looked right into one of my Super Oscars looking at lamp wattage (?) and we did consider switching it on so he could see better.  Probably a good idea we didn't.....

The gaskets are very cheap so it's worth buying several. You can then cut a gap out of one to allow you to check end float with the tip of a feeler gauge in the gap. When you have it correct, use a new complete one of the same thickness.

Yes, that's the right bit.  Pull it out using a made up "puller" of a length of studding, nuts and suitable washers and steel bar, etc.  This is what Nick Jones advised for when I removed mine to drill out my centre main oilway, and it works a treat.

nang wrote:Since my electrical theory is a bit suspect I thought I'd ask the experts. About to fit a Pertronix unit to my Cortina. Done this to my Triumphs with no problems but this one states use a 3.0 ohm coil. I thought this coil was for a 12 volt system but the Cortina, like the Triumphs, has a ballast resistor. It also states if a ballast resistor is fitted do not remove it. So do as I have done in the past, use the existing 1.5 ohm coil with the ballast resistor and feed the Pertronix unit with a 12 volt supply or change to a 3 ohm one ? Thanks Tony. I reckon you could either safely.  What Pertronix is saying, I think, is that they don't want 8 amps-ish going through the Pertronix, which is what you would have with a 1.5 ohm coil and no ballast resistor. With a ballast resistor in circuit, or with a 3 ohm coil, you'll have about 4 amps which is okay for their product to handle.  When the starter is engaged, and therefore the ballast resistor short-circuited, the voltage drop in the 12v system is quite large and therefore the current in the coil circuit is proportionately lowered during that period to a safe value for that period of time.

Cibie Super Oscars on my Spitfire. Not subtle but you can see where you are going...

I'm sure most of you will have seen the information, regs and entry forms for this year's Historic Counties Run on the 13th/14th April?  For those who have done it before, you don't need me to tell you what a great overnight event it is. For those new to the event, why not give it a try and experience an overnight drive on some of the UK's best driving roads, devoid of all traffic except other Triumphs?  You can expect great competitive spirit, great company, fantastic scenery (yes, even at night) and brilliant fun. Why not use this event as a mini-10CR to test out your car and crew?  Whatever your reason, this year's event promises to be a great one so don't delay in entering if you are considering it. The run starts late on Saturday afternoon in Cambridgeshire, close to the A1/A14, and finishes early on Sunday morning in Kelbrook, Lancashire, with a halfway control stop somewhere in between.  Meals are included at both ends, as are Rally Plates, awards, etc and there's the bonus of a three element Gymkana test at the start to have some fun with. An event description, entry form and  regulations are attached to this post.  Have a look and get an entry in; you won't be disappointed

stillnotfinnished wrote:From Nick I also think it's a bit dear in comparison to the mappable 123, which though costing another £ 50 or so, gives you a nice new dizzy with Bosch quality cap and rotor arm as well.  Don't suppose that box actually costs more than £20 to build...... Need someone to buy one and find out what's inside, then tell the rest of us how to make it!!! If it comes apart easily enough, I could do that and sell 18 circuit diagrams/parts lists for a tenner each  ;) However, I suspect it will be like a Lumenition unit, resin potted.

bobyspit wrote:I did my Megajolt for less than 200 quid. Not worth it IMHO. Jolt all day long Yes I know it's a close run thing in terms of cost, this cost me £180 (plus £5 p&p) from Aldon's ebay shop (thanks Floyd).  Agreed MJ is more flexible and has other advantages too, but there are other reasons for wanting to try this.  One of them is to swap it between the Spitfire and the Mini to see if we'd want to get one for that too (it's currently got an electronic Cooper Sport dizzy, whose curve won't match the MG Metro cam). Another is it's ability to be switched out and replaced by a bit of wire and removal of the dizzy bob-weight locks very quickly if need be. It's also very quick to install and setup, and just as easy to tune the maps.  I also like it's ability to switch immediately between 2 of your stored maps by just using an external switch - think about suddenly needing to run a more conservative map when you have just filled up with crap French petrol. How many take a laptop with them on the 10CR?

Well, as nobody else has offered to be the test mule, I thought I'd better step up and buy one.  When it arrives I'll give it whirl and see what's what. I'll try it with the 1300 engine first to make sure I know how to drive it, and then use it properly for the 1500/Mk3 cam/Mk4 head engine that's going to propel us effortlessly around Europe in September.