Velocita Rosso
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Everything posted by Velocita Rosso
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6207 wrote:OK, I have managed to open the passenger door. I undid the hinges, luckily the door strap/stay on that side is missing, so was able to pull it far enough out so that I could then fiddle with the internal lock and the catch released. So, one problem solved. On the drivers door, there is a door stay, so I do not think that the hinge method will work. We have tried pushing, pulling, tugging etc on the drivers door, while moving the handles, but it will not budge. It is a 1970 MK4, so basically the same body as the 1500 ... I think! You can get at the door check mech, by peeling back the carpet on the A post above footwell there are cavities in the hollow shell
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2157 wrote:Undoing hinges is not an option, the door will hang on the lock plate. However, it's usually possoble to push the window down a bit, turn it fully down when the handle is in reach and then it´s fairly easy to use a hook to grab the release handle. Strange...worked for me over the last ...ty years
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2157 wrote:Undoing hinges is not an option, the door will hang on the lock plate. However, it's usually possoble to push the window down a bit, turn it fully down when the handle is in reach and then it´s fairly easy to use a hook to grab the release handle. Strange...worked for me over the last ...ty years
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Lift the bonnet,undo the door hinges from the A frame/tub and the remove the door . Remove all the catch mechanisms whilst off ...its easier It may just be stuck on the striker plate/b post
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1344 wrote: If you want any oats it would be an idea if you bring a dish and a spoon ! Now theres an invite!
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uksnatcher wrote: It wasnt adrenalin that was rushing as mine broke.... :D I was going to ask if i could have a drive in yours one day........but....................
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Nothing like a quick rush of adrenalin as the wishbone hits the deck!!
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2364 wrote:Thanks Jason, So that's not a fracture, it's a part line? As Jason said,......the vertical link is threaded externally and the trunnion is threaded internally with vertical slots. The link screws into the trunnion and the rubber seal sits on top of the trunnion. When you OIL the trunnion then to excess goes up the slots and then out of the top. Note we say OIL
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Cn happen when the bearing is a loose fit on the yoke shaft and the ID spins on the OD of the shaft
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184 wrote:Hi all, I am rebuilding my CD 150's and I'm a little hung up on what we consider as "excessive" when it comes to spindle bore wear... It feels sloppy to me and measures at about 5 thou a side clearance. Your thoughts are welcomed! I will glaldy rebush, but is it necessary.....? Thanks! Five to ten thou ....I shouldnt worry too much unless they `rattle` on wggling them around. A friend rebored ours out and had sealed bearing pressed in when they became badly worn
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OK.....then buy them from Canley Classics/Fitchetts/Rimmers If the above doesn`t work ,then smack a screwdriver into the centre,creating a hole, then lever/prise out We usually smear some red hermetite on the sides of new before replacing
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Ironic....just changed mine tonight I just removed lower clamp bolt loosened bracket and slid the whole column into the cockpit,removed upper bolt then removed the UJ/knuckle and replaced in reverse . However I will redo another day as I want to fit a solid metal joint, common to the Escort Mexico,as they do not wear out re the rubber joints
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If it was me ....I would probably say it was because the door/lock mechanism is far more robust than the GT The inards are so delicate with the plastic mechanisms, whereas the MK3 Spit is all solid metal Oh and the plastic replaement parts are so costly
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Exactly like mine in 1973.......and it came out of a car showroom.......£698.00............not the registration plate :)
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Even the original workshop manual does not show where and how. My first Spitfire , in 1973, had a metal valance and the number plate was bolted `straight`to the valance. In other words it was mounted at the same angle eg roughly 60 degs............ideal for today and camera`s trying to read it Now, I have a GRP valance and I have : two holes in the valance,two brackets ,`U` shaped with one leg shorter than the other. The short leg bolted to the valance and then the number plate bolted to the long leg of the `U` So really its down to you on how you want it to look
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Using Millers CSS 20/60 ,bit better than 20/50
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Using Millers CSS 20/60 ,bit better than 20/50
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You`re all wrong.........he`s a Scotsman on his way to the Highland games! ;D
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........a tall slab of wood http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y15NnGZIBuM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9RUoExrTsg ;D ;D
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Not only that ,it takes about one minute to use a two leg puller, whilst its still on the car.........or in a vice
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I was just about to say (at 5mins) he hasnt removed the key out of the keyway on the shaft............ If you look closeley hes smacking away right from the start with the key in
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ferny wrote: But who would you eat first... You could be the Admirable Crichton and we `d go hunting Scotsmen....or people who could not value cars properly ........and the tool is on its way from South Carolina........long nosed pliers indeed !
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Amazing what ingenuity we can portray ......... Just imagine if we were all shipwrecked together on a desert island.....we could build a Triumph out of a palm tree in four days ;D
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796 wrote:Here what ye doo, simples,and wuks a treat. 1, get some masking tape,and tape all round the item to be loosend 2, take off the nobb bit, wee hole under neath, press some thing up,and pull off 3 , tape up ,or cover in grease, the inner bits / shank 4, get a deep socket, or a length o pipe, that will fit owa the thing with at least an 1/8th to spare 5, grease up the nut part too, Last 2 VVV important, honest it is. :) 6, mix some Bod,ee filla up 7, bung all around the outer nut 8, bung some into socket, which should also have a smear o grease on it, not needed for pipe. 9, push socket owa the nut 10, let bod,ee filla set a bit, and pull off 11, pare away excess bits 12, you now have a ready made Thingy A Majig, which will doo whats needed. made quite a few speacial tools this way. M Oh I do love British ingenuity........and as far putting a hand behind to grab nuts ....Im a bit puzzled The bezel nut is on the front...you know, the chrome one with 6 slots $12.99 from the states Holden, not exactly the right one........and double the cost Thanks all