Velocita Rosso
-
Posts
4,844 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
40
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Velocita Rosso
-
5927 wrote:Thanks, I suppose I may as well get new ones, I seem to be renewing everything else ;D what seemed like a nice little car is turning into a money pit, but hey what else is money for if not to be spent !! Oh good, so you will be on the Autosolo, The Ten Countries,the HCR etc etc ;)
-
5927 wrote:But how much is too much ?? I can feel a small dip with my finger tips. Lets put it this way. It depends on how much driving you do etc As Nick says and if I could feel " a small lip" then I personally would change it.........especially if you have the vertical link off Its not a long job, in fact waiting for the thing to come through the post is the longest Remove the nut Just place the vertical link across two hard surfaces eg paving blocks, with the stub axle pointing down With one almight smack from a club/sledge hammer or the like and it will drop out PS dont just tickle it whack it
-
Looks like the wheel bearing has been spinning or got stuck on the stub axle...should be OK It all depends on how much it has worn Stick a micrometer on it
-
2825 wrote:Paul, I've had the master cylinder to bits and replaced the seals. There doesn't appear to be any problem with the pedal eye connection. Could you explain more about the release lever pivot pin, as I'm not sure what that is? A more accurate explanation of the problem - when in gear and with the clutch (pedal) fully depressed, the car is still creeps forward. In other words the clutcxh is not fully disengaged. Then its the slave cylinder that needs pushing further in on its clamp You may have to grind a bit of the shoulder of the slave to do this The pin is sat in the slave then pushe s the clevis forward in the bell housing that then operates the clutch If the pin is not reaching the clevis enough then that will allow the creep By pushing the slave further forward ,it shortens the travel of the pin ,hence allowing full operation of the clutch This can only be remedied by removing tunnel and viewing the slave However you can see the pin operation by removing the starter motor and look in side the orifice and you will see the pin move when pedal depressed. By puttin fingers in the starter orifice you can feel if there is too much play/waggle without operating the pedal
-
You can take the starter motor off and check to see if the slave push rod is moving in far enough If its not moving in far enough then remove the tunnel and adjust the slave cylinder in the clamp to take up any great play
-
Looks like the one on the right.....gives more percussion accompanyment to the music ;D Seriously...........if we can ever take you serious............the one on the right You can fit the one on the left to your lawn mower........it might make a bit of DIFF RENCE...
-
Getting bubbles doesnt necessarily mean theirs a leak eg fluid going somewhere, but it does mean you are sucking in air from somewhere How old are the brake cylinders at the rear? If you have a servo have you had this checked?
-
...and today they went through the village we stayed overnight in and then went over the Passo Lavaze....highlights again tonight on Eurosport.....memories
-
Have you pumped the pedal and quickly checked the m/cyl for any bubbles coming back up? Have you done anything to the brake cyls ?
-
MGoT Donington - First Timer's Special
Velocita Rosso replied to Chriss's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Just realised.....its the day after RBRR :-/ -
MGoT Donington - First Timer's Special
Velocita Rosso replied to Chriss's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Have we any interest from CT in this event or is it too near the Club Driver Challenge event in November? -
That does `nt sound like the diff
-
Do you not know the condition of the `stuck stud` diff? I would`nt mix `n match bits from either ,you could finish up with another mangled mess of crown wheel and pinion Just try swapping over the casings from one to another Are you sure its not a `donk` not a `clunk`? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufDTDUPZrag
-
Eurosport,Saturday, 26th, the Giro d`Italia, lets see if the burger man is at the top of the Stelvio as the cyclists arrive
-
From where to where on the fuel? Heater hoses 1/2" bore
-
Give Chic Doig a ring...hes about the nearest to you with any expertise(sometimes Sports Car Supplies down your way have something in ,but not always)
-
See stage 20, May 26th http://www.steephill.tv/giro-d-italia/#05-results-2012
-
MGoT Donington - First Timer's Special
Velocita Rosso replied to Chriss's topic in Comps & Motorsport
It`s not just all `first timers` running with instructors? I think I may be up for this one -
I think you have done a great job.....can`t see where the engine`s gone back in Mike! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyDbdpcvYSY&feature=related
-
If you are talking about the crankshaft/timing cover oil seal, then if you get stuck the MG midget stockist will carry the identical seal
-
....no that makes me want to do more `runs`
-
..I`m getting tencryitis symptoms
-
Just a bit different eh?
-
932 wrote:it doesnt seem to have less power than it ever has, just less than i think it should, by dropping the valve gap from a measured 10 thou to a measured 8 thou the only difference has been it sounds quieter. I will the rockers off again and completely strip and look for wear, the noise if def towards the back of the engine so hopefully will see something on the back 4 rockers. thanks rich Your valves will, still not be closing fully `Look` , with a micrometer and bore gauge for ovality..........and change the springs
-
So youve set at 8 thou? So the valves are not closing properly now and you have less power! The rocker gear needs an overhaul or complete replacement as the rockers and or springs could very well be worn Even sideways movement on the rocker shaft will cause a rattle