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Velocita Rosso

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Everything posted by Velocita Rosso

  1. Velocita Rosso
    Thanks all ........pointing me in the right direction However Holden.......lovely picture of the T handle.........not the important end E mailed the deep south ,,
  2. Velocita Rosso
    On the MK 3 Spitfire ,the dash switches are held on to the wood facia with circular,`indented` locking nuts These are quite difficult to either undo or worse still ,tighten ...which allows them to be tightened correctly without them coming loose Does anyone know of a bespoke tool that was used/produced for this particular job?
  3. Velocita Rosso
    I tapped mine out to next imperial size up and use capscrew.....then you can afford to take the wife out and say "look what Ive saved"........just like they do when coming in with a new dress...
  4. Velocita Rosso
    You had better hurry up the Ten CR clock will be up and running in 111 days........... ;D
  5. Velocita Rosso
    ...and just to add, if it leaks from the jet tubes to float bowl then the rubber seal and washer,on the jet feeder tube may need replacing Good these cars are`nt they?
  6. Velocita Rosso
    It shouldnt have The O/Drive has a lower casing than the gearbox so the majority of the time there is generally more oil in the O/D unit than the box. The question should really be more directed to "would the low oil level have affected the box"............and I would doubt it
  7. Velocita Rosso
    1344 wrote:Mike    Point taken, it's a job for during the week as I have a couple of exhaust joints leaking that need sorting first. Do I just push the cylinder in a bit then try the pedal and then push a bit more until I am happy with the position or do just push the cylinder in until I feel resistance from the clutch then back off a wee bit. Just a step at a time, dont just do it one go,trial and error
  8. Velocita Rosso
    1344 wrote:Mike I would just make a longer rod but I dont fancy pulling the box out again to fit I may well give the old rod to the engineer at work and ask him to get a solid peice of bar and drill one end to take the origanal rod and turn the other end down to the same diameter as the rod so I end up with a sleaved extension I must admit your way does seem nice and simple ! How about putting a solid slug into the slave cylinder between the piston and rod And yes I'll see you at bovinton as I will be carrying out timing duties again Dave You dont have to take the box out again, just the tunnel  and then remove the slave It will take about half an hour to complete, by just grinding the slot longer. Then you have the adjustment in your fingers when you slide the slave in and nip up If you make a longer rod you may not know how long you want it You dont want constant pressure on the rod/clutch or you will be needing another new clutch
  9. Velocita Rosso
    OK Dave...the problem can be solved quite easy Take the slave from the clamp on the housing and you will see a recess in the slave where the pinch bolt goes through Get an angle grinder and grind another 1/2" of meat off the length of the recess eg so it makes that recess longer on the rear end This will allow you to move the slave further forward ,which in turn takes up more slack on the push rod Once done you will notice a heck of a difference I did this on mine and proved very succesful See you at Bovingdon..............when you pick up another tenner ;)
  10. Velocita Rosso
    tiggrr1 wrote: Sorry off topic  :B You do seem to get poorly when CT go to Scotlandshire, are you sure that is not like Barry's food poisoning  ;) :P ;D Haggis Fever......gets you right in the Trossacks ;D One of the symptons is seeing bright blue fruity objects....
  11. Velocita Rosso
    bodders1 wrote: This is definitely a knackered alternator, or a broken wire betweent he ignition light and the alternator itself. One minor clarification to Mr Rosso's comment - the ignition light doesn't have an earth connection as such.  One side of it is connected to the ignition switch, then other to the alternator.  When the alternator isn't turning, it is "earthed" through the field coil in the alternator itself.  Once the alternator is turning, the back-emf generated in the alternator causes the voltage on the "earth" side of the ignition light to rise to the same voltage as the feed side, so the light goes out. Never run a Lucas alternator for any length of time without the ignition light connected - it relies on the current through the ignion light to get the charging process started.  If it is not connected, the vltage regulator circuit can burn-out.  I killed an alternator this way. Correct on all points Sorry dont know what I was thinking about..............especially when I wrote an article about the flipping thing Its this Foreign Legion bug thing Ive got ,I think :B
  12. Velocita Rosso
    The alternator sounds as though it is at fault as the smaller wire coming off the alternator goes straight to the warning light and no where else except earth It would not light if it was not earthed,so sounds as though earthing OK
  13. Velocita Rosso
    Once again Rob will be doing a sterling job of supporting the RBRR entries Please get your details in ,with plenty of time so he can co ordinate (not like Steve and Gaz in curtains) If I make a bold suggestion. If it has not suggested /tried before.... Those who are on  marshalling duties....if they carried a few basic spares in their boot,had a prepared spread sheet and signatory recognition sheet, they may have something there that a team may need If there is and the part/spare is available with a marshal, then if required by a team, they either sign for that part or hand over a monetary amount to cover Anything signed for could be sorted at the end of the event For example if a marshal was carrying something basic like spark plugs and a team came in with such a problem ,it could be signed for or paid for ,to allow them a quick return to the event If this is not a good idea please dismiss. This was only an idea
  14. Velocita Rosso
    The bumper site said they do MK3 Spitfires, but I couldn`t find them............but I`m sure some bright spark can
  15. Velocita Rosso
    The bumper site said they do MK3 Spitfires, but I couldn`t find them............but I`m sure some bright spark can
  16. Velocita Rosso
    Nothing no finer than having originals re chromed The thing with stainless steel, is that its not as good as chrome for the reflection for use in shaving when on the 10CR ;D
  17. Velocita Rosso
    Nothing no finer than having originals re chromed The thing with stainless steel, is that its not as good as chrome for the reflection for use in shaving when on the 10CR ;D
  18. Velocita Rosso
    3267 wrote:Thanks for the tips, the pipe I have from the rocker cover to underneath the car really smells of burnt oil after a run, horrible,  I will try the catch tank idea, where can I buy one? The carb intakes now have a pipe between the two, is that a problem? Look at the photo....pushbike water bottle and holder ....or mines a flash ally hikers bottle @ £0.99 from the pound shop
  19. Velocita Rosso
    Sorry ,as no date has been set, couldn`t even think about it.Too much committee work looking after CT needs.Lots of other events on the cards also
  20. Velocita Rosso
    Just to clarify ,for CT members benefit, Goodwood is part of the annual Drivers Championship ,which driver points are allocated.  
  21. Velocita Rosso
    Just to clarify Goodwood is being arranged by Chris for CT Blyton is being arranged by TSSC
  22. Velocita Rosso
    PS just seal the intakes on the carbs.I used plastic tyre valve caps with heat shrink tube over the caps
  23. Velocita Rosso
    Just run the pipe from rocker cover to a catch tank
  24. Velocita Rosso
    bobyspit wrote:I had mine shortened for the Zetec conversion and then realised I needed to lower my engine more so shortened it myself for the second time !!! Took it to be balanced and it needed a little adjustment now sorted So yes if it's done right it may still need balancing just changing the uj's can put a prop out of balance! Rob Thought you were on holiday.....?
  25. Velocita Rosso
    490 wrote: Thats the EASY part.. but getting it back in??? Tips from those in the know? When Ive done mine ,they always go in ,held by the interference fit and with the castle nut on a slight tap with a copper/soft mallet and the nyloc on the stub justs tightens up Once all reassembled,including wheel back on the ground,just give it another tweak  
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