GT64fun

We have just returned from a road trip from Dorset to Northumberland, via the Peak District, The Dales and the Lakes. We couldn't resist the temptation to visit Carter Bar in the daylight, as although I had passed through on both the 2016 and 2018 RBRRs, I was keen to actually see it. Awesome views and amazing history. Very appreciative of the marshals who have manned this control. It was a good-un:- drive in, pass the road book out through the window and on into the night...... I'll be thinking of you all this time. Ian

I noted with interest on page 8 of the November TSSC Courier, that Rimmers are now offering remanufactured GT6 fuel tanks, which have been 'commissioned' by the TSSC. This could be a worthy long term investment as my tank is original to my 69 Mk2 and 'has had work'! Does anyone have experience of these yet and if so what is the quality like and do they fit? Ian (also posted on TSSC forum)

+1 for that. The originals were nylon, which is very tough. In my limited (bad) experience, the hard grey ones in the kits turn back to granules. The softer black ones just disintegrate. Ask me how I know. I now have a bespoke one made from Delrin which is similarly tough as nylon. Ian

The saloon manifold has a built in 7 deg angle to suit the tilt of the saloon engine and I think would cause fitment issues on a GT6 unless the manifold is cut and rewelded to remove the angle. I have Stromberg CD175s on an original GT6 manifold that been opened out internally balanced and built up on the flanges to suit the CD175 bolt pattern (adapters used originally but now removed), which also works well, albeit we reduced the height of the dashpot tops by 6mm to get proper clearance.

Gunnar There is a section in the WSM for assessing accident damage. Shout if you need a copy. Ian

Gunnar I don't know whether you managed to find a Mk1 WSM, but I have attached the chassis diagrams from the Mk2 manual which might be of help. Front end may be slightly different (low bumper) and the Mk2 has the inner rear wishbone mounts, otherwise hopefully probably pretty much the same. Ian

Team 134 Ian & Gary GT6 Mk2 This was our second time on the event. It felt easier this time due to familiarisation with the event, elevated confidence due to the car not delivering any curved balls on the eve of the event as in 2016, but overall a slight dilution of the thrill of the first time. (I’m sure everyone remembers their first time !) Road book this year is a fantastic super professional production, thank you Nigel. On most legs we had the Garmin satnav running with postcode as the destination and ending up arguing with the Garmin lady as we diverted from her route. She also freaked out when we went over the new Firth road bridge, as we hadn’t updated the software. Wetherby was better than Bythe I think (except the weather) and there was still a good concentration of cars despite the increased distance from the start. I loved Carter Bar control, a drive through layby at midnight, miles from anywhere with just a friendly pair of Triumph marshals and then on into the night….fantastic stuff! Didn’t get much ‘sense of place’ at Knockhill Circuit and would have preferred queuing in the car park, rather than repeatedly hill starting in a queue in the entrance. We didn’t hang about at JOG due to the weather and missed out on our planned GT6Mk1, 2 & 3 photo-opportunity, which slightly diluted the experience, compared to last time. Disappointed to find the route south of Monmouth onto the A466 was blocked by road works (I recall we had problems here two years ago), but our satnav route down the A449 and the M5 worked OK. At Land’s End the breakfast queue (and the breakfast actually) was disappointing and why everyone has to queue outside on a cold October morning is beyond comprehension. Are we expected to do that if it is pi**ing with rain? The service was a masterclass in inefficiency and the two lads serving were totally unaware of their whingeing in front of customers about how hard they were working. A trip to JOG to show how it can be done, might be suggested (it’s only 800 miles). Turweston felt a bit out of the way and not sure we appreciated the long bumpy tour around the perimeter road. Trying to avoid the advised hold ups on the A5, saw us diverting from the published route and the published diversion, but actually worked OK as we threw ourselves on the mercy of my Google maps phone satnav, the Garmin lady having earlier lost the plot on the approach to Turweston. We started the leg in convoy with Banshee Bancroft, enjoying a B road blast but bottled out when we hit the A5 and the speeds went up. Traditional navigation is more challenging as it gets dark and the little grey cells were getting a bit strained by then and the Guinness was calling (we were pleased to arrive at Knebworth just in front of Tim, so must have got something right) Overall a fantastic event and weren’t we lucky with the weather again ! Ian

Tim e-mail sent to your CT address. Ian

I'm trying to set up my RBRR Justgiving page and have successfully logged in with a new password etc. but I can't get to set up may page as  I keep getting bounced between the select your page and the team listing page with the join team tab. The response suggests that 'we will send your request to the administrator of CT'. Plenty of time to sort this I know, but it would be nice to be up and running.   Ian F Team 134.

Danny I've had my GT6 Mk2 since 1978 and in that time have used a mild steel pattern Mk2 silencer a pattern mild steel Mk3 silencer, oval and round TT twins and most recently a second hand stainless twin system of unknown origin. The issue with the mild steel stuff is that it just didn't last. The twins have all been used with a mild steel Mk3 centre box and my current set up (somewhat unexpectantly) is really quite nice. It actually sounds good and is definitely not too noisy and if attention is paid to the rear fixings does not reduce ground clearance too much. I have thought about reverting back to a Mk3 transverse silencer, but I would like to know what was inside it first, as from the outside it looks as though there must be lots of sharp corners etc. The other option would be to design a bespoke alternative possibly using clever baffles rather than just perforated tubes and packing (as per a Magnaflow), but that is probably a 'future project' and the list of those is growing! Ian F

Hazen Not being able to run with the choke pushed in, suggests that the main throttle stops need adjusting. I am not familiar with The Mk1 carbs (my Mk2 has had 175 CD2s on since I bought back in 197 but I understand that there actually two shafts on the Mk1 with the rear one controlling the choke operation. (On my carbs the choke mechanism is activated a separate starter box on the front carb with a cam which actually opens the main throttles as well.) Assuming the jets are adjusted to the rough starting point for tuning (about two turns down from level with the bridge) which should get you in the right ball park for mixture, I think I would be trying to lift the idle speed using the throttle stops whilst pushing the choke it. Someone else with direct experience of these carbs may be able to offer more help. The other possibility is a manifold air leak and a bit of detective work with a tube in your ear, might be able to confirm this as a possible culprit. Hope this helps. Ian F

Good find John Looks as though the car is in better condition than the barn. Have fun ! Regards Ian F

John https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cv-joints-accessories/gkn-aerodynamic-cv-joint-boot That looks exactly the same as the 'fast boots' I have fitted. The metal collar is a nice interference fit on the lobro. Ian F

No doubt Mr Jones will be along any moment, but to try and aid your understanding I have included a brief description of the components and methods of assembly that I wrote out for a friend who was considering this route. I have the conversion on my GT6 Mk2 and generally consider it to be a good modification, having suffered all the usual Rotaflex ills over the years, including corrosion of the damper mount and bearing issues. Source the best outer CV and inner Lobro components that you can to ensure everything is a tight and slop free as possible. The Lobros are the most difficult element to source and you may need to look out for someone breaking a 340. Nick used to offer exchange vertical links, machined to suit the outer CV and new one piece bearing but not sure whether he has any left. I have attached a PDF of the machining required to the VL in case you wish to get this done yourself. The bits required are: 2 No Rover 100 LH driveshafts (to liberate the hub, outer CV joint and driveshaft) the vertical link, disk and inner joint all get discarded. A pair of Rover 100/Maestro/Lotus wheel bearings (One piece bearings hence no shimming) A pair of ‘Fastboots’ (low profile joint boots for inner end) from Raceparts Direct. A set of machined vertical links A pair of 95 dia GKN Lobro joints for the inner end of the shafts (these come from Volvo 340 driveshafts, with each shaft having two joints) A pair of adaptor plates to join Lobro to diff outer flange. A pair of brake drum centring rings (to pack out the Rover hub to suit the Triumph brake drum. Preparation Triumph bits need disassembling to liberate vertical links, brake back plates etc. From the Rover 100 components:- Remove inner CV joint off shaft and discard (watch out for the runny grease) Undo big nut on end of drive shaft and pull shaft out of hub. (Could be loosened whilst still on donor car or else use a suitably drilled plank) Hubs need to be pressed out of the vertical links (not easy- suggest press required) Inner bearing race may stick on the hub, in which case it will need to be ground and split off. Assembly Press new bearing into vertical link (cold bearing, warm link), fit retaining circlip and press hub into bearing. Having first put correct backplate onto correct side vertical link. (Need someone with a good press) Grease and put new boot onto outer CV joint. Fit drive shaft into hub (tighten big nut a bit) Assemble inner end with Fastboot, Lobro and adaptor. Fit rest of brake components. Fit to car, then tighten hub nut (kin-tight) once wheels are on the ground. If you subsequently need to change either the joints it can be done relatively easily without disturbing the bearings. The major upside for me was being able to dispense with the wheel arch mounted damper and fix it onto the chassis. We designed a special mount to address the slight fore and aft miss alignment that you get it using standard conversion kit. Drawing available if required. It's also nice not having to fight the Rotaflex when refitting. Hope this helps Regards Ian F 😉

Nice one Tim That's good, we won't be the only Mk2 in 2018. I wrote a to do list after the 2016 and have still to cross quite a few things off. Hoping for a bit of time over the Christmas break. Ian F 😉

Hi Hazen I have been following your thread with interest. Keep up the good work. My GT6 Mk2 has wooden door caps from a T2000, sourced from the scrapyard back in the 1980s when they were plentiful (T2000s and scrapyards). They fit with only a very slight trim to the front edge and give a nice comfy wide shelf to rest your arm on! Photo attached. Regards Ian F

Just imagine doing that if you lived near Knebworth 😀 IanF

Dave has nailed it!. We knew it was bonkers, but did it and loved it and will probably do it again in 2018. Ian F Team 92

My money would also be on late GT6 Mk3 carbs. There is a serial number visible on the side view. It might be worth quoting this to Gower and Lee (Geoff) or to Burlen and they might be able to help with identification. The float bowls have the blanking piece in the base, so they will have top adjusting needles, rather than the fixed needle and adjusting jet of your original Vitesse carbs. The gubbins on the side with cream coloured plastic covers are the temperature compensators (can be troublesome, but probably best left alone) Looks as though there is a choke on the front carb only, in which case I would expect to a tube between the carbs to dribble some fuel to the back carb, although there is a bracket on the back carb, that looks as though it is intended for a choke cable connection as well. The carbs look cleanish and the covers have definitely had a polish (to bling them up a bit for sale) I have a section in my Autobook manual covering the 150 CDSE carbs which I can scan and e-mail and there is probably a section in the red Triumph workshop manual as well (I'll have a look this evening) There is also a lot of information on the Buckeye Triumph website covering refurb of US spec carbs, which would probably be relevant to your units. I'm pretty sure that TR250s and US TR6s would have had CD175s. PS:-I actually have 175 CD2s on my GT6 (non original-possibly from a Volvo) and they are a hybrid with fixed needles, choke unit on front carb and temperature compensators. Hope this helps Ian F

Nick I tend to use 97 ron when it's available, although on the RBRR a few fills were with 95 with no obvious difference, but we were often topping up from half full, so probaly more like 96.5 at worst. On second thoughts I'll setlle for yellowy exhaust and pinkish plugs as the fairest description. Engine oil is Valvoline VR1, but can't see this having much influence. Regards Ian F

Quite pleased to see this thread, as I had also been 'worrying' seeing the yellow staining on a 'white 19' GT6 rear end. We used aboutr 1/2 pint of oil over the RBRR weekend and managed just over 35mpg in 2350 miles between first and last fills (which I was pleasantly surprised at, it must be said) We have a twin box 'wheelbarrow' exhaust, so I suspect the tailpipes are exhausting into a zone of roundtail turbulance. (perhaps we need a rear undertray/diffuser) Inside surface of tailpipes was a slightly yellowy brown. I pulled a plug just for interest, which was light pinky brown. There must be something in modern fuel, that when added to Triumph engineering = yellow and pink. Our first RBRR and I must say it was a very enjoyable experience overall, although there was a definate feeling of jet lag for a couple of days after. I understand the weather in Scotland is always like that (not!) Regards Ian F

I think it really depends on where the vapourisation is being initiated, ie:- is it at the carbs, the fuel lines or the fuel pump. My recent experience is that the pump is the main culprit and as it is attached directly to to the block it is easy to see how it will gain heat. Obviously the whole of the engine bay is warm but presumably some areas are warmer than others. Heat shields should protect the carbs from radiant heat from the exhaust mainfold and sleeving or re-routing the fuel lines can reduce the influence of the hot head. Some seem to suffer more than others. I have recently fitted a Huco suction pump in the engine bay on my GT6 but the results remain a little inconclusive (he was abit of a naughty boy on the Silverstone Classic weekend) but I will hopefully get it all sorted before the RBRR. Regards Ian F

Following up on earlier comments re breathers and possible contributory factor to vapourisation, I went searching for mine on the Mk2 GT6. Being unable to find it I checked my w/s manual and Canley's website. It appears that the Mk2 doesn't have one, presumably relying on the small hole in the filler cap. Canley's parts diagrams show one for the Mk1 but not the Mk2. The red workshop manual (issue 2 for this section) says no breather on the Mk3 (implying present on the Mk1 and 2) so not quite correct. Regards Ian F 😉

I have just fitted a Huco to my GT6. See Spitfire/GT6 forum page 2 - GT6 MK3 Fuel Vapourisation. Regards Ian F

Huco now fitted, plumbed and wired. I have added an inline tap where the flexi fuel pipe comes into the engine bay, so I can change the filter without having to jack the car up when the tank is reasonably full. It is an easy short level run from the filter to pump. I have routed the pump to carbs line around the back of the bulkhead and managed to thread the pipe round the back of the washer bottle, header tank servo etc. The pipe is very thick walled but surprisingly flexible. I dont think there are any potential chafe issues here but I will monitor. I ran about half a pint of fuel through the system before connecting up to the carbs. It fired up easily and on restarts after a short stand, there are a couple of pulses from the pump as it tops up the carbs. I let everything get nice and hot (fan cycling on and off a few times) and then went for a run. First impressions are good. Pump and lines are warm, but much cooler than the mechancal fuel pump and the original copper pipe next to the head, which are almost too hot to touch. Siverstone Classic in a couple of weeks, so bigger tests to come!, but so far so good. A couple of photos attached. Regards Ian F 😉