Jump to content

That Man

Club Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    189

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by That Man

  1. That Man
    It's nothing special,It's just a strip of rubber wrapped around the cylinder. just get some rubber sheet and cut a bit to size. Gordon
  2. That Man
    A lot of panels are available through the Dolomite club
  3. That Man

    Front Pulleys

    That Man replied to Jonny-Jimbo's topic in Engine

    Don't forget the front seal runs on the pulley, so aluminium here may wear quickly? Maybe you could use one of those repair sleeves where the seal runs. For my 1300 fwd I made a titanium hub which takes a aluminium drive pulley. Just the hub and pulley weigh 520grm plus a bit for nuts and bolts. It's probably a bit OTT but it's what I do 😉
  4. That Man
    Delrin may work, but I'm not sure if it would maintain it compression over time, especially with the heat involved.  I had the idea of making something similar to the compression washer but in titanium as it's naturally springy stuff. But I never seem to have the time to make stuff these days 🤔 Meanwhile I found the service bulletin for the 1300 crankshaft update
  5. That Man
    Gillies, sorry for the slow reply (Busy week) Would it be possible to re-corrugate the washer. A new 1500 washer I have here, measures 3.6mm thick. Whats the gap between the pulley and the sprocket when tightened up? Unfortunately the 1500 washer would be no good on a 1300 as it's a larger diameter
  6. That Man
    HI Gilles, Yes as you've found out the later cars with the tapered pulley don't have the oil thrower between the pulley and the camshaft drive sprocket, but the compression washer that replaces it is very important, without that washer the sprocket drive key will wear quickly and may also damage the keyway in the crankshaft. Unfortunately the compression washers are no longer available (that I'm aware of), but I'm sure making something suitable should not be to difficult. Gordon
  7. That Man
    Do you have a picture or sizes of the ones you need as there are a few different ones. It maybe http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF1164 or http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF1166
  8. That Man
    Do you have a picture or sizes of the ones you need as there are a few different ones. It maybe http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF1164 or http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF1166
  9. That Man
    AFAIK it's two sizes, small without bearings, small with bearings and large without bearing. But I can only tell you what was fitted to what in the fwd cars with any certainty Gordon
  10. That Man
    AFAIK it's two sizes, small without bearings, small with bearings and large without bearing. But I can only tell you what was fitted to what in the fwd cars with any certainty Gordon
  11. That Man
    I'm not 100% on this but I believe the Mk3 spit had a comp' ratio of 8.5:1 and the 1300TC had 9.0:1, other than that I think they're the same spec'
  12. That Man
    Yes more or less identical (spec' wise) to the earlier 13/60 engine with the smaller crankshaft journals
  13. That Man
    Early 1300fwd's had an identical crankshaft (#307422) to the mkIII spitfire up to engine number RD48537E in late '67, which is when the TC was introduced. His car is a pre August '67 car, so if original would have the parallel nosed crankshaft. Triumph found they had a problem with the crankshaft nut coming undone, hence the change to the tapered nose.   I hope that clears up any confusion Gordon
  14. That Man
    A straight engine swap from a spitfire to a fwd triumph can't be done. But it can be done by swapping things around, you'd need to change the front engine plate,rear engine plate, flywheel, rear main bearing bolts, oil pump, timing chain cover and the front pulley that carries the starter ring, the early 1300fwd pulley will fit spitfire crankshaft, but may keep coming loose 🙁 . You'd also need to plug up the spitfire dipstick hole. With the possible exception of the pulley all the bit would be on the existing fwd engine Gordon
  15. That Man
    I have a some 1500 parts here admittedly from a 1500fwd saloon but i understand them to be the same. the stepped ring is 6.35mm thick and the friction plate(new,Spitfire) is 8.5mm It sounds like your clutch cover spring is going over center. Hope that helps Gordon
  16. That Man
    7915 wrote:The 1147 mk2 spit also uses the large journal block with sleeves as per the mk3 As does the 1300TC saloon RobPearce wrote: fitted to the large journal block with sleeve bearings (which are not easy to obtain) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-142647K
  17. That Man
    7915 wrote:The 1147 mk2 spit also uses the large journal block with sleeves as per the mk3 As does the 1300TC saloon RobPearce wrote: fitted to the large journal block with sleeve bearings (which are not easy to obtain) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-142647K
  18. That Man
    Large journal 49.9mm/ Small journal 46.7mm
  19. That Man
    Large journal 49.9mm/ Small journal 46.7mm
  20. That Man
    Yes that does look like a flat block and a recessed head gasket.
  21. That Man

    Advice on carbs

    That Man replied to 555's topic in Engine

    Depending one which tubular manifold you have the single stromberg inlet manifold may not fit, the problem is the angle at which the 2nd and 3rd primarys leave the head, I believe the single SU manifold has more clearance. But as others have said if you have a problem with the carbs stay in balance there must be some underlying problem.
  22. That Man
    You said you've rebiult this engine twice before, did you ever have the block rebored? the pistons you bought would have been specific to either 1300 or 1500, as it's only than and the crankshaft that different. Also did you ever take any photo's of the disassembled engine it should be possible to identify the pistons and crank. Other than that just try measuring through the spark plug hole, it doesn't need to be really accurate as the difference in stroke between the 1300 and 1500 is 11.5mm Gordon
  23. That Man
    10041 wrote:Thanks for the advice fellas. I have gone down the route of buying the pcv valve and removing the blanking plug on the manifold to install it that will basically give me a mk3 set up. I'm not sure there is a blanking plug, it's a while since I've looked at one of these but I'm pretty sure that hole has not bean drilled out whilst in production, so that would be a machine shop job after the manifold has been removed Gordon
  24. That Man
    A massive thank you to all the organizers, marshals and teams for making my first RBR a truly awesome event. I thought me and Ted were in for trouble when the 2500 estate broke down only 400yds from the start (is that a record?), but a passing Andy Roberts diagnosed the problem in 30 seconds, Top Bloke !! After that the car never missed a beat. One of the best bit for me was seeing the beautiful Renown at most of the check points, as our early problem left us at the back Gordon (still buzzing) Team 30
  25. That Man
    377 wrote: Check the amount and spacing of the teeth and the length of the throw, I remember someone mentioning that the Honda SM wouldn't work. I've made a Subaru Nippon Denso one fit but have yet to test it
×
×
  • Create New...