That Man
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Everything posted by That Man
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You'll need to remove the head to change the cam anyways, so i'd wait untill you have your other haed done
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Nick, i've never personally had any problems when running a external oil feed to the head when running different (non std) rocker gear, BUT it must be fitted with a restricter, as sold all the external feed pipes i've seen don't have this and in that condition i wouldn't recommend, you loose more than you gain. I fitted a restricter in the banjo bolt that screws into the back of the head. IIRC it had a hole about 0.050"/1.25mm For anyone using standard rocker gear the original oil feed should be adequate if the oil ways are clear and oil pressures ok
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thescrapman wrote: Is is more that you know what does break them, and don't do it? Have you done the 1500 gearbox swap the same as Yogi? Cheers Colin 1500 box? yes, but there are only a few internal differences between the two, most notably the input shaft/primary gear having longer splines. Canley's uprated 1300 input shaft/primary gear would do the same for the 1300 box
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yogi wrote: What, you mean supercharge a 1300? I hope you have a lot of spare gearboxes! Or do you have any plans to improve the box, though I can't think what. I really must pay you a visit sometime, I think I would find it very interesting :). Yogi, yeah i do know what you mean, but i've done over 150,000 miles in various 1300's over the last 25 years most of which have been modified in some way or other and i've never broken a gearbox, worn them out yes, but never broken, maybe you've just been unlucky. As regards supercharging a 1300, as i'm planning to run EFI i'll have the ability to modulate the midrange torque to something the box can handle, i hope!
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Nick_Jones wrote:Pretty sure Josh found one of the early 1300 ones that fitted straight onto the small-crank Mk3 Spit motor. He's very good at finding ready made parts! Nick Ah! I'd assumed it was a MKIV large bearing engine, maybe that's why the crank broke ? I'll have to revisit his web site if it's still up, as i'm planning to do something similar myself at some point ;)
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Hi Nick, I believe your mate Josh used a 1500fwd hub/pulley on his supercharged spit, this would have been tapered originally and of the larger size of 1 3/8" dia (1300fwd 1" dia) which he then bored out parallel to fit the spit crank nose. Ray, the taper nose cranks are unique to the fwd cars, as it's just for attaching the starter ring to the front of the engine
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This is a photo of the pulley you'll need It also appears that rimmers have some http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-145713 a bit expensive though
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Do you just mean for identification purposes? they have 6 x 5/16" dia holes in the front face for mounting the starter ring carrier. I can take a photo of one if that's any help.
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The drive key is just a piece of 3/16" x 3/16" key steel available from any good engineering suppliers or ebay. or you could try Mick Dolphin, he has the keys listed on his web site part no. 145709. I also see rimmers have the compression washers listed http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-149055 As far as I'm aware the flywheel end of the crank is the same as the spitfire but the fwd flywheel is obviously different to that of the spitfire as it has no starter ring. I do hope you are using the fwd front pulley though, it could turn out messy if you're not.
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Yes, the later 1300FWD ("68 on) uses a parallel drive key in conjunction with a tapered nose on the crank, which means you'd also need the matching front pulley with a tapered bore. there is also a special compression washer that fits between the pulley and the cam drive sprocket.
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According to the information i have Washer "WP 0022" is listed as "washer plain light" inside diameter 9/16" outside diameter 1" it doesn't give a thickness though, so I'd guess the same as a standard 9/16" washer. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/hardwarewasherplainlight.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/appendix.html&category=hardware&xsl=diagram.xsl Gordon
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I would first check that everything else is as it should be, is there any wear in the original needles? are you using different air filters? i believe if you use K&N's for example you need to change the dashpot springs from red to yellow IIRC. Is your tubular manifold the original triumph one? as that shouldn't make a difference, but using ram pipes may require different needles I don't have any real experience of changing needles on SU's as i never ran them when i tuned my car, but it might be worth sending a PM to CHRIS211083 as he spent a lot of time fiddling with needles on his spitfire But it will only be trial and error unless you have something to measure your air/fuel ratio
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Hi Nick, is it just my eyesight or are two of flywheel bolts a different size ? the bolt heads at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock look smaller ? Gordon
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That's the middle box and front pipe you need if you have the original tubular exhaust manifold on the early TC
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Maybe a duel master cylinder setup would be the way to go ? is there room for two mc's side by side ?
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Nice work there Markus, are you saying your brake balance was too far forward before, hence the reason for the bigger dia discs? Many people use mgtf parts, but i believe they only uses 9 1/2" dia discs It's handy having a pit in the garage, no? One of my best mates has one in his garage, it comes in very useful, not that I'm saying that's why he's one of my best mates of course ;)
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That looks like terminal wear to me, the bottom of the rocker shouldn't be that thin ( well the ones I've got aren't! ) That would be caused by that old lack of oil to the head syndrome, also if the valve is sticky the loads on the rocker will be increased If all of the bits of metal can be accounted for i'd just replace the rocker gear, assuming all the valves/valve seats and pushrods are fine. Oh and check the oil ways are clear ;)
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1300 rwd cars have a 6.5" clutch with early ones having a 10 spline friction plate later cars use a 20 spline, the change over was the use of the single rail gearbox(?) in the later cars 1500 rwd cars have a 7.25" clutch, I believe all use the 20 spline friction plate 1300 fwd cars have a 6.5" clutch with a 9 spline friction plate (we like to be different ;) ) 1500 fwd cars have a 7.25" clutch again with the 9 spline Rwd clutch covers can not be used on fwd unless you use a different (larger) thrust bearing 8) but fwd covers can be used on rwd if used with the correct (for the cover) friction plate I think that's right Gordon
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A lot of multimeters can measure current, but you must be very careful when doing so, most only measure up to 10amps some 20amps, if you go over that you'll blow the internal fuse in the meter. It's also common to have to plug the lead(s) into different sockets on the meter specifically for measuring large currents (100ma+). get that wrong and you'll need a new multimeter. ask me how i know ??) To Measure current the meter must be in the circuit, so all the power is flowing through the meter, hence why extreme care must be taken.
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The rating on the fuse is the max load it can run at continuously, the blowing load IIRC is twice this hence a 17amp fuse would blow at 34amps, just work out (I=W/V) or measure the loads and fuse to that current
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jcarruthers wrote: Well in terms of engine it seems best to compare similar engines — Spitfire, Heralds and Dolomites that use the 4 cyl. There's a difference in the weight of the car but the Spitfire should be the least stress as it's the lightest? I think maybe it's the weight of the drivers foot that needs to be accounted for ;)
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Hi Rod, When you say Dolomite wheels i assume you mean the alloy wheels from a sprint ? The tyre pressures from the sprint handbook say 22psi for the front and 24 for the rear, this is for 175/70 tyres, but i think most sprint owners say this is a bit on the low side. most tyre pressure gauges are usually a bit out anyway ( although tyre shops should have calibrated gauges ), so i would say adjust by a few psi at a time until it feels right, different brands of tyre behave differently anyway. Just be sure to have the same pressures on each side. With any luck a sprint owner will be along soon, probably to correct me :P Gordon
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stillnotfinnished wrote:Ps webers are normally for track use If you mean dcoe's then yes, but a progressive down draft like a 32/36 dgev could work well. I'm a bit rusty with my webers, does that carb have interchangeable chokes sizes ? Gordon
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Does your spare wheel use the same size tyre (if you have a spare?) as they are usually a steel rim, then purchase 3 or 4 more spare wheels
