That Man
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Everything posted by That Man
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Yes the Toledo one will fit it has the same part No. 808671 All cars from 1300 to the Dolomite share the same glass
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The 1300fwd rear screen seals are difficult to come by now although I think I did see one on ebay recently, the Toledo uses the same seal. You could use a Dolomite seal, the only difference is it uses a finishing strip similar to the windscreen seal
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A friend may years ago ran a 1380 Mini van with a single Hif7 (1 7/8"), no lack a performance there, 96bhp at the wheels. a single carb with the right manifold can work very well, as Mr Kipping found. With the added advantage of being easier to setup and maintain.
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ARP Catalogue wrote:A stud should be installed in a “relaxed†mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run. I've always thought these people know what there talking about Gordon
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Have you undone the two release bearing adjuster bolts on the left hand side of the gearbox to allow the bearing to be moved right back ? You may fine that the clutch cover will not just lift straight up, it may need a little wigging to extract it, the amount of room depends on the make/design of the cover, some are taller than others. Also if the driven plate is still stuck to the flywheel this may preclude the cover coming free.
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According to my 1300 fwd manual the rocker bore is 0.562" to 0.563". I don't see any reason for the 6 pot to be any different. That's quite a tight tolerance, so it might difficult to judge what acceptable Gordon
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8958 wrote:Did you bush the rockers if so what size of bush did you use. I'm a machinist :) so I made mine from scratch, I think I used aluminium-bronze I made them about 20 years ago so it's a bit vague. The engine has done about 40k since fitted and I haven't had it apart to check. The tricky part i found was boring out the rockers as they are a awkward shape to hold in the machine, also make shore you redrill the oil holes through the bush. As for the size, manual says the bore of the rockers are 0.562/0.563" but remember the more material you remove from the bore of the rocker the weaker it will be.
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If you are thinking of bushing the rockers, the shaft will need to be harder than standard, I had mine tuffrided . I'm not sure the shaft material is suitable for plasma nitride hardening.
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uksnatcher wrote: http://www.apracing.com/product_details/road_car_upgrades/road_brake_calipers/4_piston_calipers/cp7600_family-130mm_mounting_centres-suits_%c3%b8295x24mm_disc.aspx 130mm between locating bolt holes (5.1")........... so no, it wont just bolt on. STANDARD CALIPER BOLT HOLE DISTANCE Type 12/14 caliper (Spitfire) bolt distance 3.25" (82.5mm) Type 16 caliper (GT6) bolt distance 3.5" (89mm) That link is for a Radial mount caliper not a Lug mount as per the MG TF item. I would assume the mounting holes would be the same spacing as the std MG caliper which I "think" are 3.5" Gordon
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Would it not be possible to fit some thing under the bearing carrier bolts? not sure how much clearance there is between them and the driveshaft bolt heads, You would only need a couple of millimeters for a bracket. I assume you're fitting a sensor both sides of the diff or you'll only be detecting wheel spin on one side
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2402 wrote:Hi when I looking into this i was told 5.5 kg lowest weight as below that on the spits caused other issues like idle problems. Chris. Chris that's probably true with the 1147 you had in your spit or the early 1300's, but the crankshaft in the 1500 is nearly twice the weight, so the 1500 doesn't need so much flywheel weight Gordon
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Bainzy wrote:1) In the factory manual where the dots on the crank gearwheel, cam gearwheel and front engine plate line up, so you can get them aligned in relation to each other, is that also supposed to be TDC? This should only be done if reusing the original components, if you have replaced anything you must re-time the cam. If it is a true TR5 profile then it should be possible to time it as per the Triumph manual. Does anyone have a TR5 workshop manual?
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377 wrote: I did explain that to Team T and also told them that they will have to get a decent socket on it after we managed to get it back on with just a pipe wrench, so hopefully it will stay in place fro the duration. strangely with all the 1300's I have owned I have never lost a crank nut although I know plenty that have. It's only early 1300's that suffer, Triumph redesigned it late '67 when the TC was introduced
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I'd just like to say good luck to all our American friends on their little jaunt around Europe. Especially team two driving Flipper. As a owner of a '67 Triumph 1300 for some 26 years now, i know they sometimes have a habit of misbehaving( Having just read Andy cook's blog ), dropping their crankshaft nut is just one of their party tricks, this MUST be loctite'd in place or she'll only drop it again ;) But she will be a lot of fun around all those twisty passes. Enjoy ! Gordon
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Bainzy wrote:Marcus - standard springs as its not goin to be revving over the redline. It's not just the rpm you have to worry about, with more lift and duration on the cam the valves will be opening faster at the same rpm. It might be worth asking Newman if they have any recommendations Re duplex timing chain, your new cam will increase the load on the chain as it has more lift. Your argument with the increased weight is valid but it's rotating at half engine speed so maybe not as relevant as you think. Gordon
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See if your local tyre fitter can put that dented wheel (or all of them) on the balancing machine to see if it's ok, If it's bent it'll show up as imbalance
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Hi Dave Yes RF prefix is definitely 1300TC the single carb would have the prefix RD. The TC engine is more or less the same as the MKIII spitfire. the front pulley is normally the only giveaway as the fwd pulley has 6 bolt holes in it to attach the starter ring carrier. Would the single carb manifold not be original 13/60 item ? Gordon
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thescrapman wrote:Sorry for a slight hijack here but I am a man in search of an answer, and the source of the query is in what is being discussed. I spent a few hours yesterdaty afternoon assisting Dom with the brakes on his girlfriends Herald. He has upgraded from type 12 to 14 (done all teh hub mods etc) but has ended up with a very long pedal travel. Very long! He fitted 2 brand new type 14 calipers, and they will pump up and give a nice firm pedal. But after lefting off the brake pedal the pistons all slowly pull back about a milimetre. so you get a total of 4mm piston travel before the front brakes engage. all the pads rattle and can be pulled out easily. This 4mm means the next press of the brake pedal has the option of being heart-stopping. Has anyone else encountered this? Cheers Colin Hi Colin, It sounds like the pistons are sticking to the seals rather than sliding through them, I've only had this happen myself when using stainless steel pistons as even though they have a fine turn surface finish they're still rougher than chrome plate, they needed a darn good polish then they were ok. If they're plated pistons they might just need removing, cleaning and lubricating with some brake fluid as they may have been lying on a shelf for a while and dried-up
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Your tail lights and front side lights should already be on the same circuit, by the looks of things your tail light have been wired to the front head lights instead, So now that you have joined the tail lights to the side lights they are all joined together. I'm not sure if that will pass an MOT Does your car use a Dolomite wiring loom?
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1317 wrote: Along with the displeasure of HM Customs & Excise you might find that there is also the matter of the slow burn rate of AVGAS. It is blended to be used in aeroplane engines which do not rev nearly as fast as automobile engines do. For car use you might find that a large increase in ignition advance is required to get the best from AVGAS. Cheers, Paul That's interesting as i know some BTCC teams used it back in the 90's while testing, well that was their excuse after some was found in the tank at first meeting of the year. I must admit i've only used it in the mower ;)
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2729 wrote: Sit down before you ask! How does £14/gallon 2012 prices grab you? I'm pretty sure you can buy av-gas cheaper than that, and that has lead and a higher octane
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707 wrote:Thanks for the advice i will give it a try, i have found my workshop manual now and it says you need a triumph tool to remove it? I am thinking of converting the engine (1300) to a single S.U, i need to source a carb and manifold, were they only fitted to Toledos, did the 1500 have the same size S.U?.........Martin Don't believe everything you read in the Haynes manual ;) If you have the original type of 150 stromberg it's just held in place by the grub screw in the side, only the later ones need a special tool for removal and adjustment, try putting it somewhere very cold like the deep freeze (when "she's" not looking) as the brass should shrink more the the steel its held in. The single 1 1/2" SU was fitted to the 1500 fwd, the Toledo and 1300 Dolomite
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2880 wrote:Yes, I'd say that it is a fairly straight forward job to do. As long as you are happy with re timing your engine. You won't need to remove the cylinder head to do it either. Sam. Can you remove the cam followers on a 1600 engine without removing the head ? My knowledge of the earlier engines isn't that great
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2880 wrote:Yes, I'd say that it is a fairly straight forward job to do. As long as you are happy with re timing your engine. You won't need to remove the cylinder head to do it either. Sam. Can you remove the cam followers on a 1600 engine without removing the head ? My knowledge of the earlier engines isn't that great
