That Man

These are the Marina 1800 mounts, are yours similar ?

Hi Gilles Sorry I only have just seen your new post. The first two pictures above do show the "normal" engine mount setup that does indeed use the same mounts as the 200/2500 saloons. The diagram 4.102 shows a prototype pre-production setup, this setup also included a small damper fitted between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead, this was not used in production on UK models. The factory parts book does list a different engine mounting setup using a different front engine plate, and the rear damper. but it lists this as being for "special orders" The rubber mount associated with this setup is different to the usual one, I've done quick google search and it may be the same as the Morris Marina 1800/Ital engine mount. Does your car have the damper at the rear of the engine? I've only seen this fitted to French cars for some reason, maybe they also use the differing front mount setup as well.

According to my wiring diagram Brown/Blue is terminal 1,White to 2,White/Red to 3, terminal 4 is for accessories/Radio IIRC Yes, you're right smart phone cameras are very useful when taking things apart!

2016 RBRR Knebworth to Blyth. Myself and Mad uncle Ted, in his 2500 mk2 estate. This was filmed using a GoPro hero4 Silver. A word of warning I managed to over-heat the GoPro by having it powered by usb for nearly 30 hours straight, better to have a few batteries and charge them separately, battery life is about one section anyway.

Really liking the new website/forum. Top marks to all of those involved. If this doesn't drag people back from FB then nothing will! It don't see how to post anything in the Local Groups section? Am I missing something or is it on the "to do" list?

No Problem Walt, Glad to help. It's the reason we're here!

Walt I hope this is the one you need

If you don't know the specifications of the cam you intend to use it does make it very difficult to set it correctly. If you are sure it's a original Triumph factory cam it will be symmetrical so you would use the method described in the workshop manual for camshaft alignment If it's a after market cam it should be marked by the manufacturer as to which profile it has.

It's when the valve either starts to open or finishes closing with standard valve clearances. If measuring the camshaft directly it gets tricky as you'd need to calculate what the valve clearance would be at the follower, this would be very important as the quietening ramps are very shallow and would give a big variation in the angles you'd measure. Also remember it crankshaft degrees not camshaft degrees.  

yes,the bearing is not supposed to retract fully, the 1/8" gap is just to allow for wear. As long as the bearing is not tight against the diaphragm it's ok

I have been looking, I have too many hiding places for parts. I have not given up yet!

Although the Dolomite and Toledo ones can't be used a 1500fwd one can. I'll have a look to see if I have a good second hand one. Where in the world are you?

Hi Walt. What leads you to think there are any differences in cv joints for the 1300fwd? I've never seen or hear of any differences. The only difference I know of is that the 1500fwd does have larger cv's than the 1300fwd. these are interchangeable so long as you use the 1500fwd driveshaft as well because the internal spline of the cv is larger. So maybe some previous owner changed to 1500fwd driveshafts for some reason, they are thought to be stronger and longer lasting. Both 1300fwd and 1500fwd CV's are unique to the triumph models

Walt. 1300fwd dampers are unique to the model, 1500fwd/TC as well as Toledo and Dolomite dampers are too long. But the correct ones are available for the 1300fwd.They are Made by GAZ and sold by Rimmer Bros. I bought some last year for my 1300TC.

Some interesting advice here, having just bought a Innovate MTX-L Plus for my 1300TC Efi Project, it does state in the manual in Bold type that the sensor should be at least 24 inches downstream from the exhaust port. I'm guessing it depends on whether you are using a heated or non-heated sensor?

[Sorry, link no longer available]

The team numbers seem to be a bit odd to me?

Yes that's a 1300 fwd bonnet badge

Hi Pete, As others have said the early 1300fwd cars had problems with the crankshaft nut coming undone and then damaging the keyway. Personally I would go the route of fitting a later crank with the tapered nose you'll also need the associated pulley there is also a special wavy washer that fits between the pulley and the timing gear, this replaces the oil thrower washer, this is important! Also it uses a parallel key rather that the woodruf type. What condition is the old crankshaft in other than the keyway slot, a machine shop should be able to cut a new keyway on the other side and also cut the taper as a later crank, But using a replacement crank would be the easier option. The third type of crankshaft was on very early cars the first six months or so these had the scroll type rear oil seal as per Mk1-2 Spit and 1200 Heralds   

Hi Pete, Yes it's perfectly possible to change the cv joints without undoing the rotoflex couplings, Just as Nick said you just need to unbolt top and bottom ball joints there's no need to spilt the tapers. then push out the cv joint with either a 3 leg puller or the Spitfire/Herald rear hub puller if you have access to one. The cv comes off the shaft with a sharp whack with a large copper mallet.

Hi Bill, I've had a look at the manual it just says that the head has individual ports and that the carb is a Zenith 32 IV R Downdraught. It's unfortunate that the Manual is rather short on pictures.     

That's very interesting Bill, I assumed it would have had the same engine as the 1500fwd export version of the 1300fwd (Israel and South Africa) this is different to the later 1500 engine as used in the home market cars. I haven't got a copy of the Dragoon workshop manuel with me but in sure it had a early type 1500 engine with a 8 port head. Gordon

If I've done it right, yes

I've done a GPX file for this years run if that's of any use to anyone, I know which file types my TomTom uses but not what files other sat navs use. If others can use it, please check I haven't missed anything. Gordon P.S It's in a zip as it was a bit large