That Man

Hi Tim. It's hard to say without knowing how your ammeter is wired up.is it correct way around? is it original? I'm guessing that as you've put the fog light load on the battery side of the ammeter some of the current is finding another route from the battery. It's a bit like when the tail lights flash with the indicators when you have a bad earth Gordon

John Bonnett wrote: Thing I can't get my head round is how can the whole entry get through the control if it is only open for an hour between 05.07 and 06.07hrs? Perhaps someone could explain to me how it works. I'm hoping they form a orderly queue, but somehow i doubt it. ;D 100 cars in 60 minutes that's a whole 36 seconds to sign each road book,with two people, simiples  ;) John, me and Steve hope to be there around 4 o'clock, i believe they open form breakfast at 7.00 Gordon

They're also different sizes  

:) thanks Phil

Hi Richard, 100bhp at the wheels is pretty impressive considering your limited to 7500, what's the torque like? What are the figures for that Kent 264 cam as i can't seem to find it listed anywhere. Gordon

699 wrote:Not seen it mentioned as not important to the actual query regarding 6 cyl. engines, but when balancing a V8 the reciprocating mass needs all its work done first, then is used to determine counterbalance weights used solely for the purpose of crank balancing. As i understand it, the weight of the big end of the con-rod is needed to determine the crankshaft counter-weighting (as these are technically rotating ) but this doesn't effect the rotating balance, Although i believe some balancing people do add weights to the crank pins to simulate the weight of the rod big-ends whilst balancing Gordon

Hi scott, You appear to have a 1500fwd (front wheel drive) clutch cover, these use a smaller input shaft 5/8" x 9 spine and a smaller thrust bearing, so the inside diameter of the diaphragm fingers is smaller. Check this against your old cover. As regards your run-out problems with the flywheel i would suggest removing the flywheel and checking every thing is scrupulously clean, how tight is the fit of the flywheel to the crankshaft? it's would be a good idea to put the dti on the rear of the crank just to eliminate any problem with the crank it's self. The concentricity of the flywheel is governed by the fit of the counterbore in the back of the flywheel to the seal diameter on the crankshaft, the dowel is only for angular location.   Gordon

Hi Bill, I believe it's the same as the fwd1300/1500 as the roto gt6 uses the same setting tool.if you don't have the setting tool you'll need to assemble dry and measure with a DTI End float should be 0.002" - 0.005" achieved through the combination of different  sized spacers and shims Gordon

Sand blasting will give a good key for painting

Sand blasting will give a good key for painting

hypoid53 wrote:I have just reset my 25/65 cam timing on my Spitfire 1500 using a vernier gear wheel to achieve more accurate cam timing and it occurs to me that the 'standard' Spitfire 1500 ignition timing of 10 degrees BTDC, should not necessarily be correct for this cam. As it is a Mk3 Spitfire type cam I checked that models timing and it is 6 degrees BTDC. At 10 degrees I cannot get the idle speed below 1000rpm with correctly set up carbs and there are no vacuum leaks. At its recent MoT my CO reading was only 1.2% instead on 2.5 so I richened it up a bit! I have now reset to 6 degrees BTDC (vacuum advance disconnected) and achieved a more reasonable 850/900 rpm idle, so I will try that for a while. Has anyone else had similar issues with the 25/65 cam in their Spitfire? Personally i would say that the petrol you are using would have more effect on the static timing than the cam, you must remember that these cars were designed to run on 4/5 star leaded petrol, so even with a completely standard engine the original static timing wouldn't necessarily be optimal. Trial and error always works for me, just keep advancing the timing a degree at a time with a road test until it starts pinking then back a degree. Also you may find that the advance curve is not right for the cam you now have, only a rolling road session will sort that out. Gordon

Hi Scott, Yes it's just as Nick says. As std Triumph cams are symmetrical at TDC the inlet and exhaust valves at an equal amount of lift ( exhaust closing and inlet opening ), the actual clearance you use isn't critical, they don't have to be exactly 0.040" but they must be exactly the same. It's also a good idea to have two sets of feeler gauges . Gordon

2597 wrote:Hello Gents I am certain that one of you guys will have this info but... What is the MK3 grind cam timing settings. I have seen them on here somewhere but blown if I can find them. Help needed quick so I can get this done tomorrow. Cheers Scott Hi Scott, I assume you mean the valve timing for when you're putting the timing chain on ? if so, it's std Triumph camshaft profile, so it should be as per the manual, how are you doing it, head on or off ? Gordon

Richard it's worth checking that the dissy drive gear it correctly orientated, if your looking for silly mistakes, most of us have done that one  :B Gordon

MarkDeTriomphe wrote:Watch out for those that rotate the wrong way - Subaru and some fitted to rover/mg for example (ask me how I know  ) Generally if the starter is one the engine side of the flywheel/starter ring it rotates the right way, on the gearbox side the starter goes the other way ( generally! ) But if you're a 1300/1500 FWD owner like me, you'll want one that goes the other way ;) Gordon

molten wrote: Just had a horrible thought.... Did the 1300 block differ from the 1500 block? You can probably see where i'm going with this question. Also, the 1500 crank has longer throws. How can you tell difference between a 1500 & 1300 crank. Ie how much longer are the throws etc. Are ther any distinctive maks that are tell-tale signs of the type of crank? My parts book shows the same camshaft core plug for both 1300 and 1500 large journal engines (#148353). I've just measured the 1500 block i have in the shed and the dia of the bucket core plug is 2 1/16" . Interestingly rimmers list that as a 2" core plug :-/ Re differences in crank throws the stroke on the 1300 is 76mm and 87.5mm for the 1500, so if you measure roughly between B/E journals you should be able to figure which you have.

molten wrote:Anyone know what the clearance should be? Is mains & B/E same clearance? The manuals don't seem to give the clearances for the 1500, but the 1300 small journal crank clearances are given as 0.0005" to 0.0015" for B/E and 0.0005" to 0.0022 for the mains Is the ridge you refer to right at the edge of the journal, may be when it was ground the radius on the grinding wheel was larger than the existing radius so leaving a step. If you place the rod with just the one shell onto the journal is the ridge to one side of the bearing surface? Gordon

3815 wrote:Hi, anyone got any tips on removing a stubborn water housing bolt?  Just doesn't want to budge. Soaked what I can see in wd40 but still refusing to budge. ANy more pressure and I reckon it will shear off  :'( That's why they're supposed to be studs and nuts, the holes go into the gallery in the pump housing so invariably go rusty quite quickly. Maybe try some heat, blow torch or similar, otherwise shear it off then drill out what remains Gordon

I used to know someone who ran a single HIF7 (1 7/8") on a modified mini, it was indecently quick just under the 100bhp mark and gave good economy .

5458 wrote:Hello. One of the front wheels is rubbing on my wheelarch.  I have adjustable spring seats on the shock absorbers. You can screw them up or down. it's a gt6. so to raise the ride height, do I adjust the spring seat upwards or downwards?  the geometry of the thing has just gone beyond me!  Common sense says up, to make the spring/shock unit longer. But I've looked at it for so long now I don't seem to know right from left any more. Thanks guys x You screw it up(?) to raise it up and vice versa to lower Gordon

thescrapman wrote:Those cap head bolts are really annoying, they seem to round off very easily, even with a decent allen key. Cheers Colin This is usually because the PO has over tightened them ??) they're only 1/4 UNF and supposed to be 10-12 lbs/ft, but not everyone has allen bits for the torque wrench. Gordon

Hi Colin, yes please, if you could measure the TCA for me Correction, it's the not TR2-6 just TR6 bush, #141481. Do the TR boys venture this far down the page ?

Hi all, i'm looking to polybush the rear of the 1300fwd but the only bush/mount specifically listed is the #142236 center subframe mount which is used on Mk1 big saloons i believe. Other bushes i need are the ones for the subframe outer, these look similar to the inner TCA bush on the front of the big saloon and the bolt size is almost identical, so if some kind gentlemen could tell me the internal diameter and length of the housing and the length of said bush I'll know if it'll fit. Lastly the bushes for the trailing arms uses the same size bolt as the TR2-6 front lower wishbone on the inboard end, so again using this as my lead i need to know the housing diameter,length and bush length. I don't expect people to go crawling under their cars with a tape measure (digital calipers would be better ;) ) as i'm in no rush. but if you have some bits you could measure up in the shed or garage it would be most helpful :) Gordon

From the Toledo hand book:- Engine sump and filter.....   4.2 Litres Engine sump, drain/refill...  3.7 Litres But that of course only applies if you're using a Toledo sump. Gordon

Cast iron pumps are 1" deep, the later aluminium pumps are 1.25" deep, you have the kit for the later pump. Gordon