mole42

I've attached a .gpx file of a route from Land's End as far as Monmouth. If anyone would like to comment, or perhaps share their thoughts about certain sections that they know, I'd be happy. Some of the roads I've plotted are ones I know, others recommended by a rally navigator pal who's based in Truro so any local knowlege would be good! Richard

I'm interested! I can look at the West Country, sort of Devon / Malverns / Mid-Wales. That could be a fun project. Richard

This year I plan to get to grips with the thorny subject of those pesky shims that are often fitted between the front strut (Mk.1 is 305704) and the hub spider (209344) and what they are for and how to check which sizes are needed. The Parts Book reveals that shims are used in 0.004" (140687) or 0.010" (140686) thickness, Rimmers have these parts listed. The Stag ROM suggests that the shim(s) are fitted to the top front bolt only, I can't find any mention of the shims in the 2000/2500/2.5 ROM that I have but I do remember from the many big saloons that I restored years ago the shims were often found on the lower two bolts. I understood from conversations years ago (and I mean maybe 40 years ago!!) that the shims were only there to make up for tolerances between the machining of the strut and the spider. This is slightly hard to believe since not even the British car industry in the 60's made parts needing shims in 4 thou and 10 thou to correct it! It seems likely, then, that the shims are there to set the correct camber which could be from 0º to +1¼º depending on year of manufacture and model. It should be possible to mathematically determine the correct thickness of shim but I'm sure that somewhere there is a definitive document. Any comments would be appreciated! Richard

This year I plan to get to grips with the thorny subject of those pesky shims that are often fitted between the front strut (Mk.1 is 305704) and the hub spider (209344) and what they are for and how to check which sizes are needed. The Parts Book reveals that shims are used in 0.004" (140687) or 0.010" (140686) thickness, Rimmers have these parts listed. The Stag ROM suggests that the shim(s) are fitted to the top front bolt only, I can't find any mention of the shims in the 2000/2500/2.5 ROM that I have but I do remember from the many big saloons that I restored years ago the shims were often found on the lower two bolts. I understood from conversations years ago (and I mean maybe 40 years ago!!) that the shims were only there to make up for tolerances between the machining of the strut and the spider. This is slightly hard to believe since not even the British car industry in the 60's made parts needing shims in 4 thou and 10 thou to correct it! It seems likely, then, that the shims are there to set the correct camber which could be from 0º to +1¼º depending on year of manufacture and model. It should be possible to mathematically determine the correct thickness of shim but I'm sure that somewhere there is a definitive document. Any comments would be appreciated! Richard

If a Stag carburetter overflows (needle valve stuck, usually) the excess is routed through a pipe onto the nearside chasdsis rail, or the nearside exhaust pipe, which ever is nearer. This will cause the strong smell of petrol that you notice, and really needs fixing before the car sets on fire.

My congratulations and thanks added to that. I hugely enjoyed the trip, so did Mabel the Stag. She’s still grinning from ear to ear! Richard

Thanks Chris.

I've loaded Howard's Garmin file into my Nüvi 3490 and it looks okay. My navigator and I will be plotting the route into the atlas this evening, and noting any tricky junctions. I might end up with a few tulips! Richard

I've made the C2C Route instructions as an Excel file, I wanted to format it to make it easier for my inexperienced navigator. You may find it useful, you can alter the format to suit your team. Richard

Now that we have the route, has anyone had chance to make a file suitable for the Garmin GPS? I could probably do it but I'm flat out at work this week and sleeping in the evenings!!

Any chance of a photo?

I'll be able to help out at Monmouth North. Richard

Some of the big Triumph saloons had a vinyl/fabric mix. Your back seat could have been re-covered at some time using a cover intended for another car.

I remember RBRR when it was just a fun bash around the island in a Triumph. The first time I entered was the first time it was a charity fund-raiser. I probably won't do it again, in 26 years I'll be 88 and I might like to be in bed by 9pm on a Friday night, not driving up the A1 to Scotland! I don't want to impose any restrictions, but the entry list gets longer and longer, the roads get busier, the breakfast stop in John O"Groats doesn't get any larger. Perhaps LeJog wasn't the most appropriate comparison, but it popped into my head because of the association with the two ends of the Bristish Isles.

I have just spent 2 hours almost stationery in city Centre traffic - the M5 has been closed today and all the traffic has come through Bristol at 5pm...... My Stag didn’t even think about overheating. Retain the copper radiator, it works better than any aluminium radiator ever could. If you have an old copper one, get it recored at a fraction of the cost of a new aluminium one and you’ll never regret it.

I waited 26 years before I did the RBRR again. Perhaps the entry could be made as a list, and the organisers randomly select 140 for the next RBRR and 140 for the next but one RBRR etc etc. You might get my drift. How may CT members do the RBRR every time? Is it really necessary to do it every time?  Or perhaps the entry fee should be closer to the fees for Le Jog.....

Although I moved from the 'reserve' list to the 'active' list this year and was excited to be taking part, my car had other ideas and so I regretfully had to withdraw. I have done the RRBR twice - in 1990 and in 2016 and found the pace and timing of that event perfectly suited me even though on the latter event I was over 60. I personally favour the all-night drive and a more formal start to each leg of the task. I can organise a Continental touring holiday for myself and make it to suit my own ideas, as I understand it the challenge of the 10CR was to make a European version of the RBRR and I think that would make for more interest from me. I'd have to find co-drivers that were up to the task though!!

The one I fitted to my Stag was sold as a "push or pull" fan, you are instructed to simply reverse the wiring connections. The fan is shaped to move maximum air in one direction only, so when reversed, it didn't do much at all. I took the fan off the motor, reversed it and hey presto! it moves nearly enough air to move the car forward on it's own.

There's a similar one for the Apple phone - called Speedometer

Just phone Peter at LDParts and be guided by his knowledge and integrity.

Just phone Peter at LDParts and be guided by his knowledge and integrity.

I have a EuroTunnel reservation that I cannot use this Summer, so I'm planning to change it and use the tunnel for 10CR. Is anyone else using the tunnel? It's a lot more expensive than the ferry, but I'll lose the booking if I don't use it this way

There hasn't been an update to the entry list for quite a while. Have there not been any retirements yet? Richard

Thanks Tim.

What are known in the non-German world as IWIS but originally JWIS (pronounced  IWIS) chains have the "JWIS" logo stamped on every link.