scotty71
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Everything posted by scotty71
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i fitted the newton moulded carpets, which fitted very easy. but you do need to glue some of it down, due to edges try to curl up behind the front seats.
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Paul, are you able to sent in a better picture. as this one is blurred! i looks like the top of the window frame.
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Paul, are you able to sent in a better picture. as this one is blurred! i looks like the top of the window frame.
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hi dave, have you adjusted anything around the main body of the carb? ie the nuts on the butterfly or choke? to cause the cv to stick?
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i do use Evans waterless coolant. but i do find if you get stuck in traffic, it does weep a little. so i carry a 2 litre bottle around just in case you need to top up.
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if the dynamo is charging ok, i would leave them alone. you can see if they are getting smaller, by putting a ruler along side them. the modern brushes are softer, and were out quicker.
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there is a little in my rocker cover, does it smell? being the oil could be breaking down and burning. my engine will tick then first started, but will quite down after a bit. once the oil has gone around the rocker. i was told the rocker kits do work, but you will burn oil through the exhaust guides.
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my tank had to come out when I had to wield around the wheel arch. so I when to undo the drain bolt, only to find I had rip the bolt off of the tank. with fuel pudding out, be very careful on the bolt!! luckily I can wield, the tank was repaired and tank sealer from Frost. it is a good time to check the thread in the tank. now all is good.
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I had fitted the America TR6 seats, but modified the herald seat rails to fit. the TR seats are longer, so added 6" of 3mm box cut to shape.
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Is the gearbox main shaft going into the CRANK SPIGOT BUSH 105143 ok? I have had a duff bush before, which binds on the shaft.
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job done . found the release bearing which i fitted,was pushing against a old bit of bearing. this bit of bearing,had been fitted before i had owned the car. so when i came to replace the clutch and bearing. i did just that. now we can get the car back on the road.
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replaced the clutch slave cylinder and fluid, at the weekend. clutch fluid was like milk when it came out. so some how water has got into it. with a rebuild slave and new fluid, we have a working clutch. just need to take the car out for drive.
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cheers for the reply's. the slave cylinder was the next thing to look at. I had the same idea, there could be at air lock in the pipe it self. being this problem seems to get worst as the engine get hotter. I do have another slave cylinder to try. and even change the routing of the pipe away from the heat of the engine. the answer to Rob's question, the complete setup. I do not like mixing old and new parts up when it comes to clutches.
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when the engine is cold, I can all the gears. but as it warms up it gets more difficult to get 1st and 2nd. to a point I need to stop select the gear, then pull away. as for the clutch slip, the clutch is fitted the correct way around. on the clutch plate it states flywheel side, which it is. the problem seams to pop up when you try to accelerate up a hill or trying to over take it is trying to pull. but the engine note changes. this is why I think the clutch is slipping. as for the slave cylinder question. I have dig out my old cylinder which came with the car. I will replace the seals in it and try what.
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could the clutch slip be due to a duff slave cylinder? it has been rebuilt. but I did find when the car gets hotter, it is becomes more difficult to get 1st and 2nd gear.
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fitted a new clutch, but found it slips when you put your foot down. it is a Borg and beck clutch. it was meant to be the correct one for the 1360. when i was bolting the clutch plate on the fly wheel, it look like the diaphragm had move away a bit. i have the clutch tool to setup the clutch lineament. so do it buy a tool clutch, or this there a fit?
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yes the 1360 oil pump did have a strainer on it. my one is still the same as the OEM. which is about as good as a tea strainer!! 😀
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yes the 1360 oil pump did have a strainer on it. my one is still the same as the OEM. which is about as good as a tea strainer!! 😀
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bought a 45 amp alternator.
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for running spot lights, gets dark out in the country side. i was looking at 45 to 50 amp.
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my Lucas alternator is now due to be replaced. is there any good makes out there ? i am looking for one which is a bit more heavy duty.
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this is what i had to do, to make them close better. i found the filing the striker plate top edge helped. this allows the door plate to shut tighter together when the door is closed.
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this is what i had to do, to make them close better. i found the filing the striker plate top edge helped. this allows the door plate to shut tighter together when the door is closed.
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had the same problem with my doors, so i brought new striker plates. and lubed the locks up, as they would bump open by 1/2". new door hinges helped as well. you will find the profile on the striker plates, will needed to be filed on the top edge a bit. his will stop the door jamming when it is about to shut on the striker plate. taking some pictures, but the are to big to post here. scotty
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had the same problem with my doors, so i brought new striker plates. and lubed the locks up, as they would bump open by 1/2". new door hinges helped as well. you will find the profile on the striker plates, will needed to be filed on the top edge a bit. his will stop the door jamming when it is about to shut on the striker plate. taking some pictures, but the are to big to post here. scotty