Slimboyfat
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Everything posted by Slimboyfat
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2580 wrote:I got new rear quarter panels and although they are supposedly made on the original tooling the quality is not that good . Sounds like a case for the Trade Descriptions Act on who ever sold you those. Rear quarter valances haven't been pressed on 'original' tooling for decades. The repro tooling that is being used now to produce the ONLY available valances is the same that has been used for at least 25 years or more.
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Buy on price alone as there is (has been for some years) only one company pressing these (and its not in the UK!). Be careful when buying the bumper retaining strips as some will sell you a straight length of profile. This in turn kinks when you try and bend it around the 'corner' on the valance. Make sure you are getting a pre curved retainer thats done on the correct tooling. it makes things so much easier.
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8818 wrote:hi my son has just brought a 1962 Herald but it needs a front valance, if anyone has one even if its tatty and is repairable i would be intersted chers paul MKI front valances are not available new, and they rarely turn up in decent used condition. We have had to repair two recently having given up trying to find better ones. Good luck with the search.
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garyf wrote: I don't think it matters either but presumably there must be a reason why they where stamped FRONT When spring manufacturers were clever enough to do such things springs could be built to a driver only specification (different tension side to side). In practical terms though it matters not. It used to be possible to turn springs around when they had gone soft on the drivers side and get a few more years out of them.
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7801 wrote:Cheers for the replies guys, very helpful. , the stubs are from canleys so i suspect they will be fine Made in Coventry
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1526 wrote: Perhaps you should tip them the wink about the Spares Group - MUT I can't speak for Radford panels but any talk of dealing with 'Spares Groups' or Owners Clubs sends shivers through your average established trade outlet, or manufacturer. The trade jungle drums have fired up regularly over the years with tales of such relationships going sour.
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1526 wrote: If someone has made contact ..... please tell me how! MUT Regularly! They have a lady who comes into the office a couple of days a week. She responds to e-mail, and answering machine messages. If you made a straight forward request for a price, and availabilty on a particular panel I can't see why they wouldn't get back to you. However they are very busy people supplying large orders to mostly (99%) trade customers. They keep nothing on the shelf (they don't have a shelf!) its all made to order in reasonable runs. Its probably best to be brief, succinct, and to the point when enquiring with them, they are not at all set up up for the vagaries of the average retail punter 8)
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26"
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Yes they are good; http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=140111oe LC stands for Lead Copper Most sizes available, for most engines. Other suppliers may also, etc
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1526 wrote: - or Dave at Canley until his stock runs out. MUT And/or we use them up in restorations.
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They include the extra bit (the bottom of the sill strengthener). I have always cut that bit off though, and repaired the strengthener properly when doing 2000 sills.
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Only 5 (if the stock is right). and only 1 of these; http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=717034skin We also have a few each of these (also Hadrian stuff); http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=903343repair http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=903342repair Such a shame that Hadrian bailed out a few years ago, some of their stuff was excellent bearing in mind how cheap they were. I couldn't believe it when we got first dibs on it all, and the lorry turned up the next day.
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1526 wrote: Just had a quick check round the usual suppliers: MUT You missed one http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=717035skin Last of the Hadrian stock we bought out a few years ago
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Why didn't you use a Dolomite cover sill?
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uksnatcher wrote:Thanks Dave Have you looked into the polyurethane coupling alternative as a product you could confidently sell? Looks like Quillers have not stocked them now for some time, quality issues? Sorry missed this bit. We did look at it about 10 years ago but concluded with the help of a prominant polybush concern that it was a none starter. There was some stiff tooling costs to be factored in, and I wasn't 100% convinced that it would work anyway.
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No experiance of the 400 quid ones as I have never actually seen any in the flesh, or had any reports from anyone either good, or bad (has anyone actually bought any?) I can however vouch for the recent QH couplings. Right up until QH went pop in January this year we were selling loads of the QH branded ones. They were as cheap as chips, and we never had one bad report from our customers about quality, or longevity (over about a 6 year period). We can only hope that the recently bought out QH brand's new owners finds that manufacturer again and starts knocking them out. There has never been a supply issue for the not so good repros, but we don't sell those (we haven't sold any type since the QH ones went).
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Only as 'original' as the company that has made them recently owns the trade name. They aren't made in the factory they were made in originaly, or by the people who produced them. We bought the last batch of original (from the factory) couplings in about 2001, and immediately sold the majority of them to a larger Triumph trader. In essence all couplings since then have been repro.
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2729 wrote: Why? They only drop out after huge milages and years of neglect. Thirty odd years ago we bought several hundred warranty engines from BL that had sat out on the car park at Canley for a few years. Bearing in mind these were all less than 12 months old when exchaged a surprising number of them had dropped a thrust, or chucked a rod.
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timbancroft61 wrote:Cheers Doug, Sarah will give me a right old verbal lashing! Clare and myself in the TR5 (1998), Chicane (2000), and Stag (2006). edit, why has 1998 turned into a smiley face?
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2597 wrote: As such I dont want to go to the added expense of a heavy duty mainshaft at £200 a pop I think you must have been quoted x2 on that, it should be more like; http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=tkc923hd
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Or GEG387 from other suppliers.
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7915 wrote:Canleys do what the call a recondioned one Shotblasted, checked for straightness no a jig, and given a coat of paint.
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and they appear on internet auction sites regularly, usually described vaguely so as to 'disguise' the press fit bit.
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7915 wrote:Some of the 1147 engines used press fit pistons and as the press fit ones are unavailable http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=142659 Other Triumph specialists may have stock, etc, etc............. (modified, sorry John didn't see your link before I did this)
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Simples. Place the wheel bearing housing on the shaft sufficient to get the nut, and washer on enough threads to be able torque down the hub. The hub will push the housing down to exactly the correct position. Haynes manuals can be very confusing can't they.
