herald948
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Everything posted by herald948
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How do plugs look? Perhaps it's running lean, which would be indicated by fairly whitish deposits on the plugs rather than the more usual pinkish-tannish color.
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5/8" or, in terms of the rebuild kit part number (Girling): SP1963.
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Question: how long has the "trunnionless kit" been around? I ask only because the trunnion setup on the small Triumphs dates back at least to 1953 and the Standard 8. Just an observation.... ;)
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junkuser wrote:Electric has advantages in cars that are used infrequently. Will bring the fuel level up in the float bowl(s) before the starter is engaged.I thought that was what the priming lever was for! ;D
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3398 wrote:What's the difference in the above mentioned kits?I'll wager it's the difference between the old coil spring clutch as used in the Vitesse 6 1600 (the expensive one), and the diaphragm-style clutch used in the 2L and Mk2 (the cheaper one)?
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Peter's numbers sound pretty reasonable, but you might go up a couple pounds with the slightly taller profile 70 series tires. (I used to run my '62 1200 sedan -- 4.5" wheels and 175/70R13s -- around 28-29 front and 32 rear.)
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Hopefully it is/was just the thermostat. But having seen this, I do fear the possibility of a broken piston and/or ring(s), or similar problems that will require deeper digging into the engine. :(
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Can the metal from old mounts be "recycled" for new ones?
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heraldcoupe wrote:I keep looking at making polyurethane engine mountings, but price is a big obstacle to many Triumph owners.That's a typical almost-Catch-22 situation, one that seems all too common in the hobby these days. Even once you've demonstrated and proven the durability of such a part, you still need to find people who might pay 2-3 times as much for a part that will last many years instead of a few months. Oddly, there are many folks who will want to save every penny they can on certain parts, even if they're constantly replacing said parts! Go figure.... ??)
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Perhaps one could have the spring de-arched by a good spring shop (if they still exist)?
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3398 wrote:......phew....Balance restored.....Good. We were beginning to feel that imbalance way over here in the States! ;D
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As to the diff covered in oil and grease, it's not necessarily bad, but it can be a self-perpetuating and self-worsening problem. Inevitably, all sorts of grime can built up, sometimes to the point where it blocks the vent. Once that vent is blocked, pressure build-up inside the diff can force gear oil out past the various seals, making things yet worse! :(But often as not, cleaning off that vent will slow or even stop any such leaking! :)
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2729 wrote:Nope, the oil cooler kit for the TR5 was listed as a Stanpart dealer fit accessory along with things like a door mirror or a continental touring kit.Perhaps I should have substituted "sustained high speeds" for "competition use"? ;D
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2729 wrote: It should be noted Triumph always offered an optional factory fit oil cooler back in the day.Right, along with many other items "for competition use"! 2729 wrote:They clearly knew something was less than optimal.Sure, for stock components under "competition use" stress. ;)
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I realize that the "OE" Trellborg/Metalastik couplings are (cough) very expensive, but they are still being made, are they not? As for QH, I will miss them, at least the QH of the 1960s and 1970s, back when a clutch from them was as likely to be Borg & Beck, a suspension bushing Metalastik and a bearing Timken or similar quality brand! Oh, and are there other current manufacturers of the front and rear trunnion bushing kits, which even recently seemed still to be of good quality?
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Do you still have the "original"? Is it rebuildable?
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Frankly, any engine -- "rebuilt" or not -- is a crapshoot unless it's in a car or on a stand where you can run it, etc., etc. I'd at least want to see receipts for machine work and hopefully follow through with said machine shop for details. I doubt you could do a "rebuildable" 1300 (or your original 1147) much cheaper than the asking price once you add up parts, machine shop work and labor. Beyond that, it's basically a drop-in proposition but with a lot of fiddly bits and minor (accelerator cable linkage, for example) or maybe not so minor (front brake, clutch and possible differential upgrades) parts-swapping as Nick suggests.
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The headpipe will be different.
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On an original 1147cc Herald engine of mine that had already done 50k miles, I've put another 60k miles on the car. There was no indication from the previous owners of the car that any "unleaded conversion" had ever been done, and I haven't had it done, but it has run exclusively on lead-free gasoline all my 60k miles with NO additives or lead substitutes. That engine is still fine. My point? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. On the relatively rare occasion that valve seat recession due to a lack of lead begins to develop, you can have whatever you want done to the head at that time. In the meantime, why throw away your money? ;D
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3141 wrote:Yes please Andy. Timken is good. I didn't know you could still get them.Happy to do so. From page 4.104 of the 1200 Workshop Manual (same numbers still used by Timken): Outer cone 03062 Outer cup 03162 Inner cone 07100S Inner cup 07210X Possibly worth noting: I installed a set of the above in my '62 1200 several years ago. Unfortunately, they wore out fairly quickly. At that point, I investigated rather more thoroughly and discovered that the hub was badly worn from earlier problems, which I should have noticed! A good used hub and another set of Timkens...and "Bob's your uncle" as they say! :) Offhand, I don't know where these latest Timkens were made, but the quality seems to be every bit as good as any other Timken -- new or used -- I've ever seen! And Timken seems to still use the same orange and black boxes they've used for decades!
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Look for Timken brand (OE supplier)! Part numbers available later from me if someone else doesn't post them.
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heraldcoupe wrote:I would expect a 1967 Herald 1200 to have the same diaphragm clutch as the 13/60.Even if the '67 has the older coil spring clutch, everything bolts right up...EXCEPT that you'd need to source the correct clutch throwout bearing and carrier for the diaphragm clutch. You'll probably also want to source the proper clutch slave cylinder as well.
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If the car DOES have a fuse box (we always got them in the US, but I know not all the home market cars did), then try just wiggling that fuse a bit; chances are the lights will come back on unless the fuse is actually blown or otherwise defective!
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Do you mean the rivet that holds the pin in the check strap? That rivet needs to be drilled out or ground off. A bit of a pain....
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Do you mean the rivet that holds the pin in the check strap? That rivet needs to be drilled out or ground off. A bit of a pain....