herald948
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Everything posted by herald948
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I think the DVLA have the wrong chassis number...
herald948 replied to Sidewaysste's topic in Triumph Chat
...except that the "O" for overdrive would be AFTER the "L" for left-hand steering if so equipped. -
Where in the world are you? I ask because a: it would help people "near" to you and b: "driver's door" means one thing in the UK and quite another on the Continent and in North America! ;) Might be easier to state "RH" (off sice) or "LH" (near side)?
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Goody wrote:I do like the bumpers. Very well done. I agree; far beyond a typical hacksaw job, and quite well executed!
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Goody wrote:I do like the bumpers. Very well done. I agree; far beyond a typical hacksaw job, and quite well executed!
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I would also agree, but I wonder where said bumpers might have come from, as the 2000 was only sold briefly in the US, and then only the "original" series. Obviously, bumpers could have been obtained at any time from anywhere, but it's not very likely that they'd have come out of a typical US "junkyard" (breaker yard)!
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I would also agree, but I wonder where said bumpers might have come from, as the 2000 was only sold briefly in the US, and then only the "original" series. Obviously, bumpers could have been obtained at any time from anywhere, but it's not very likely that they'd have come out of a typical US "junkyard" (breaker yard)!
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A couple of thoughts. 1. Slim chance that a ring or two on #4 is stuck, and maybe some sort of treatment with, say, SeaFoam or Marvel Mystery Oil or whatever might help. 2. One possible reason #4 is first to "overheat" might be that that's where all the silt and gunk builds up in the coolant passages. Have you flushed the block as well as the radiator (which looked overdue for a flush)? I wouldn't be surprised to hear that you'll open the block drain...and nothing will happen. If so, prod with a stiff wire or small screwdriver or the like until water/coolant gushes out, then keep flushing!
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I've had some luck wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and then clamping the belt tightly in a vise.
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Keith wrote:I just find it frustrating that I can't make the coil spring clutch work properly, I can't believe they were that bad when new, or were they?Having driven Heralds off and on since about 1969, I would have to say NO, they were not that bad when new. Further, they don't have to be that bad now! Sometime around 2004 or so, I "blew up" the coil spring clutch in my '62 and replaced it with NOS Borg & Beck bits. I also replaced the rear engine (gearbox) mounts at the time, and it was fine after that. Your mileage may vary....
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How are the engine and gearbox mounts? Worn mounts, especially on the rear of the gearbox, can cause judder.
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Keith wrote:...the original woollen ones.Please correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that at least the typical Charcoal Grey Herald 1200 carpet was rayon?
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Rocker cap has mayo but dipstick doesn't?
herald948 replied to Richard Herefordshire's topic in Engine
I think Pete Lewis has explained this quite well, and it parallels what I remember from back in the late 1960s. I was a teenager in fall 1969 and had just gotten my own Herald, which never had that "mayo" problem, compared to Dad's, which often did (as above, only really seen in the rocker cover). Dad did drive a bit more sedately than I did back then, though. ;) -
As I recall, the 948s did use a 3/4" reach plug, while 1147s had a 1/2" reach plug. It went back to 3/4" reach for the 1296. You might look for the stamped part number on your head; perhaps it is from an 1147?
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It's all packed away at the moment, but what I bought last fall from TRF was an early Spitfire choke cable and a (separate) reproduction choke knob, which certainly appeared to be about as close to original as one could get. Someday, it's going into my '67 Sports 1200, which retains only its 12/50-style carb and manifold on what is otherwise a late Mk2 Spitfire engine. I've got a set of Spitfire "Mk1" SUs and a proper exhaust manifold that will go on the car, hopefully sometime this year. The choke cable that was on the car when I bought it two years ago was a rather pitiful generic auto parts store replacement that looked awful and functioned worse. :-/
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I got one last fall from The Roadster Factory in the US; looked pretty original to me! 704873 is the part number. Canley does show that number, but apparently what they supply isn't as original, Einar?
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Beyond wear or broken bits (and severe body/chassis flex, of course), I find that adjustment and/or lubrication usually will keep the door locks functioning pretty well. :)
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Yes!
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I have heard over the years that galvanizing can add LOTS of weight to the chassis. Fact or myth? Seems that a typical "SC" Triumph does not need to have any weight added to it. ;D
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The problem with "mechanical" methods such as chunks of gravel or lengths of chain is that I'm pretty sure there is at least one baffle in the tank that would pretty much keep that gravel or chain from getting to parts of the tank. Louis's "electrolysis" method or other chemical methods are probably the only way to really reach as much as possible of the inside of the tank.
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Worse yet, most "stop leak" products won't even plug the hole they leave in your wallet. ;D
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heraldcoupe wrote: It's the steering wheel or inner column making contact with the slip ring inside the outer column. Often caused by a worn upper steering column bush or a badly adjusted clearance between the wheel and outer column. It can happen with an original wheel, but it's far more common with aftermarket steering wheels.Been there, done that. Easily fixed -- at least short term -- by undoing the clamp and pulling the inner column/steering wheel out just that tiniest fraction of an inch! ;D
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Excellent question...to which I'm afraid I can't provide an answer. But good vendors to contact in the US include: Spitbits The Roadster Factory TS Imported Automotive All of the above will have someone on one of their phone lines or e-mail addresses who probably can actually answer technical questions such as "how many coil springs are there on an early Spitfire pressure plate?" Note that the early Spitfire used essentially the same clutch, and saying "Spitfire" won't scare off most US vendors as will saying "Herald"! Besides, if saying Herald doesn't scare them, there's a fair chance they'll just give you my phone number or e-mail address unless they happen to know the answer! ;D (I'm well known to many US Triumph parts sellers after decades of being The Vintage Triumph Register's vehicle consultant for the Herald!)
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9112 wrote: from what I read, it looks like the 1200 may have used the 9 spring cover; I am not sure if that was to be used with the 6.25 disc (which is what I have) or the 6.5 disc.Both the 6- and 9-coil covers were used with 6.25" driven discs. The 6.5" driven disc is for a later diaphragm-style clutch cover. Beyond that, I confess to being stumped. I can only assume that nothing has contaminated the friction material, and that something is keeping the clutch from completely releasing? A new clutch just shouldn't slip. Period. Master cylinders are all pretty much the same for clutches, but there are different styles of slave cylinder. I wouldn't think that the wrong slave could cause such a problem, but.... ???
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That's about what I thought. My fairly original, April-1960 built 948 saloon has the adjustment.
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Early ones did, but not all. Offhand, I don't remember when that little feature was dropped, but Bill Davies probably knows! :)