herald948
-
Posts
726 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by herald948
-
That one sentence ought to be a required header on every post here! 🙂
-
Admittedly, I've had perhaps more than my share of parts cars over the years; regardless, a brake drum is something I've almost never had to replace. On the rare occasion that I did have to replace, I would find a good used one from my stash. At worst, I might have to have the drum turned. Where I live (in the USA), we have a really great local auto parts store. Granted, it caters more to American cars, but until sometime last year -- when their lathe broke and parts were no longer available to repair it -- they routinely turned drums and rotors. But most modern car drums and rotors are simply not worth turning; rather, they seem destined to be as much a throwaway item as the shoes or pads that rub on them! And it would appear that current aftermarket replacement drums and rotors for our cars are of about the same quality.
-
No, that definitely is a replacement (later style) valence. The change came roughly with the "MkII" chassis at GA80001 and future. My own GA41429LDL has the correct earlier style valence (although it is long overdue for some attention to preserve it, such as removing about 34 metric tons of filler and reshaping it more properly )!
-
True, but I've been given to understand that, at times, the performance of Léon's car indeed was electrifying! 🙂
-
But wouldn't the 13/60 4.11, even with the larger shafts, still have the smaller flanges?
-
Yes to that likely being the original dynamo; hang onto it!
-
I can't imagine blasting it with any media would be a good thing unless it was disassembled and each leaf blasted individually (you'd never get all the media out from in between the leaves, and I can't imagine that being good for spring action). I would go with your last suggestion of simply cleaning off the loose stuff and then, as the manuals recommend during regular servicing, "painting" it with used engine oil or gear oil.
-
Casper is correct: the only truly relevant point here is that manifold and the headpipe (or at least the flange) that mates to it. You might find it's best to have someone fabricate the rest of the system, as I'm not sure the rest of any Herald system would properly match up to the Fairthorpe. And remember that, while the Fairthorpe used the Standard 10's "live" rear axle (hence the exhaust looping over same), the Heralds were all IRS with a fixed differential (hence the exhaust pipe running underneath the differential). Of course, if you're using a header rather than an original Stanpart manifold, then it's all pretty much irrelevant! If you're using either Herald 948TC twin carbs (SU H1s) and exhaust manifold or early Spitfire twin carbs (SU HS2s) and the early Spitfire's cast iron exhaust manifold, it would be all or part of that Herald 948TC headpipe that you'd need.
-
I'm with Nick; lubrication of all parts of the latch mechanism often makes the difference!
-
I'm with Nick; lubrication of all parts of the latch mechanism often makes the difference!
-
I am also of the school of first getting an oil pressure gauge, to get some idea of what's actually going on. I've had instances where exactly what you describe happened; subsequently the oil light would stay on for higher and higher rev's...and then it decided to spring a leak, which pretty much made me decide to change it out. Oh, I'd already had an oil pressure gauge, so I knew what was actually happening!
-
I agree with you, Mark, about hydraulics unlikely to be responsible for the clutch slip. 99.99% of the time, hydraulic problems mean that you cannot DISENGAGE the clutch. But I just went through replacement of a clutch master cylinder on my son's 1997 Toyota Celica GT because that cylinder was hanging up and not allowing the pedal to return (nor the clutch to fully re-engage after a shift). So perhaps anything is possible? Beyond that, I can't think of any way, short of very wrong parts somewhere, that a clutch -- bolted down to the flywheel -- would not be fully engaged?
-
Am I correct in remembering that size matters? as in the trims for 3.5" wheels are NOT interchangeable with trims for 4.5" wheels?
-
I gotta agree with Nick on this! Typically, there should be a roll pin through that hole. But that's a bit "belt and suspenders (braces)" inasmuch as it typically takes a good 12-ton press, swearing, probably some intense heat and, likely as not, a near-death experience or two in order to separate those two bits.
-
Is there any other reason beside the leaking why you want to replace the diff? Slight leaking might be as simple as a blocked vent causing pressure that forces oil out wherever it can. It's a five-minute job to clean the gunk off from around that vent!
-
Also, if Herald: disc or drum front brakes?
-
Also, if Herald: disc or drum front brakes?
-
Quite possibly no difference at all, especially given that it's a "factory" replacement. Typically, as I recall, the GD engines used a different camshaft (as per early Spitfire). That's the most significant change, although there might also have been slight differences in compression ratio and such, but then heads are easily changed, so.... ???
-
If I'd completed my thoughts in my post above, I'd have noted that the cause of the brake seizing was indeed an old, internally collapsed hose. It was so bad, in fact, that when all the intense heat literally blew the rubber hose out of the metal fitting on the wheel cylinder, NO FLUID came out, and the brake pedal still had some feel! Frustrating, as those hoses couldn't have been more than 45 years old.... 😀
-
I'm with Nick on this! Sticking/overheating brakes can generate enough heat to -- in some cases -- fry the wheel cylinder seals, render the brake lining material to little more than brittle bits of semi-metallic charcoal, and even set the wheel bearing grease afire. Not that this (cough) has ever happened to me (cough cough).... Oh, if you do find you need new wheel bearings, the only thing you need to remember is the word "Timken" (OE supplier, recommended in the factory workshop manual, readily available at least here in the US and not too expensive if you shop around)!
-
I gotta ask: WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE? The only time I've ever even entertained that notion is immediately before discovering a dried, rusted vertical link about to snap off inside a trunnion! Or when both front tires were flat.
-
I can't think of any "short cuts" to this job. Essentially, you follow the workshop manual procedures for removing and replacing the spring. Period.
-
They're not really all THAT bad...unless you find one where someone removed presumably broken straps and bolted it together SOLID. (Yeah, really! )
-
Wild guess here, but could it be that this sender has that additional terminal for a low fuel warning lamp or something like that? It looks a bit like some of the TR7 and TR8 senders I've seen.
-
A quick Google search on that part number seems to indicate that the HK6943 kit IS the 6.5" diaphragm clutch kit, so it's fine if you do want to change your flywheel, slave cylinder and throwout bearing carrier.