herald948
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Everything posted by herald948
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I love the BMIHT certificates for the information they provide (usually accurate, or at least as accurate as those to try to read faded records and transcribe them properly ;) ), but it's a pretty expensive way to determine original color. Having seen a picture of the car in question, I'm quite sure that the original paint color will be found on some inner body panel. Brightish red is Signal. Anything else is...whatever it is.
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herald948 wrote:Of course, unscrewing the body number plate hopefully would reveal the original color underneath as well (a bit less drastic than drilling out the rivets of the commission number plate! Hmmm, that must have been the Johnny Walker Red talking! ;) Yes, the body number plates do screw on, but it now occurs to me it's more likely one would only find primer underneath, seeing as those body number plates were always painted.
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It's a pre-1964 (or thereabouts) car, so there's no data plate that shows paint and trim codes. Odds are it's #32 Signal Red, assuming that the red shown in the photo is anywhere near original, or if any other hidden areas show red. About the only other possibility would be #22 Cherry Red, but that's highly doubtful unless the car was either a Personal Export Delivery or built for first sale in Canada. The US, for the most part, got a rather more limited range of colors on Heralds! Of course, unscrewing the body number plate hopefully would reveal the original color underneath as well (a bit less drastic than drilling out the rivets of the commission number plate!
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That's not really of any value, as it's more a "series" number or "batch" number if you will rather than an actual serial number of any sort.
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9555 wrote:Mk3 Spit. Originally 3.5's... fitting 155/80's.... What year is the car? At least in North America, the 1970 model year Mk3 got the 4.5" "solid" wheels (as per GT6 or most Herald Estates). Of course, lots of folks seem to like to fit MkIV or 1500 wheels, which were usually 4.5" as well, save for the last cars, which had 5.0" wheels.
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9530 wrote:Yep, the £600 option won't happen, well not at the moment. Not interested in more power yet, just getting the thing back on the road, hence also going to be the basic coil springs and shocks as well ( as you all recoil in horror) , can always fit Koni's etc later, but will go for polly buses as replacements. My budget is so silly and doing all the work myself. It will be all pretty much standard equipment to get it back up and running. Can always upgrade at a later date. ;)Whatever it's based in, I like and respect your thinking. I see so many folks take a car that has been around for ???? years and ???? miles and just assume that it MUST HAVE the very best and highest performance parts to get it back on the road. Truth is, getting back to "as new" original specification is often quite sufficient, as well as being less expensive. (For now, I won't get into the philosophy of "so many replacement parts are rubbish" and all that, especially since it pertains as much to performance bits as it does to OE-type bits. ;) )
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9913 wrote:Hi guys. Yes I am an Aussie. I have 2 coupes. Thee first has commission plates y6655, engine number 1860KB. I have tracked it down to an early 1960 model. The second one I just purchased. I want to do one up and move the other one on. So I am looking to find out which is older. Do they have a chassis number any where? And can this be used to track down more info? JuliusAs others have noted, it's difficult to just assume complete originality of components after 54 years, but your Y6655 does fit into early 1960 commission numbers as you've discovered. In the other car with an engine around 700 units earlier, there's a pretty good chance it's also early 1960 production. With that large a gap, though, I wonder if the two cars were NOT in the same batch of CKD kits, as they tended to be in groups? You should scroll back and forth from this page: http://www.triumph-herald.com/YlistsY6439.htm (I started where there was some data listed; there are forward and back arrows at the top of each page for moving through.) Also, the webmaster might have some additional details that would be helpful, as he seems to have a lot of information on the early cars, including the batches of CKD kits, etc., etc. Is there any evidence of a body number tag on either car? I'm assuming that any such body number tag on an AMI-assembled car would be on the RH scuttle side as it is with Coventry-built cars, but I'm not absolutely certain.
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I've been told that the "KB" numbering was for 1960 and later 948 series cars, and that such numbering was unique to AMI-assembled cars in Australia, not used elsewhere in the world.
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Arguably more important than keeping dirt (and rust from moisture) out of various orifices is keeping small rodents and such out of same!
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At least for the US market, the only Mk3 that came with 4.5" steel wheels was the 1970 model; before that, they were 3.5". Wire wheels, OTOH, were always 4.5" wide.
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The greater the number of turns lock-to-lock, the lesser the effort.
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I knew someone who, years ago, bought a Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) on which this was done. Whoever did it originally did change the door glasses and made some sort of "(presumably removable) channel" for the saloon glass, etc., etc. I've no idea what else was involved, but I could try contacting that person for further details if you're really interested. Personally, it seems rather too much work when Honeybourne convertible hardtops are still around?
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What Jordan said!!!
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You can use the differential itself or the crossmember just aft of the diff.
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mik wrote:Just thought I'd update this thread....my adjusters were several mm too wide. I tidied the rather rough casting of the body with a file and then took an angle grinder to the back of the wedge shaped adjuster pistons and shortened them until they fitted properly. After refitting, the drums will go on now. Then I discovered the square adjuster head is 6mm instead of quarter inch. Not a large amount out but it's the difference between a well fitting spanner and one that just wants to slip and round off the corners! In short, a case of badly made reproduction parts it would appear....I've heard so many bad things about the repro adjusters, but this is a new one, and it's even scarier than the other things I'd heard about them! ??) I will NEVER fit anything but an original Girling adjuster. It occasionally takes a bit of effort, but I've never yet failed to be able to free up a stuck adjuster and get it functioning again as new. It's more than worth the approximately 10 minutes it takes to do this: two minutes with a propane torch to free up the most stubbornly stuck ones; maybe five minutes to thoroughly clean the pieces; and about three minutes to carefully and sparingly lubricate and reassemble them! :)
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I do know that the "Mk2" Herald chassis lost the guide hole for the crank that had been atop the front crosstube, and I assume that, at about the same time as that change was made, the nut for the crank pulley on the front of the engine lost the "dog" to engage the crank? (All assuming original chassis and engine, of course!)
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I'm pretty sure you would need to cut away a bit of the tunnel and then make a removable cover, so yes, the carpet would need to be lifted. It should still be possible to fit the OD gearbox from inside the car, but it is substantially heavier and, therefore, rather more awkward. You might ultimately find that removing the engine and then installing both as a unit is easier, but those who have actually done this may have other opinions! :)
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Odd to see on this late a car...unless the registration doesn't truly tell the age of the car and it is older than the "A" registration would indicate!
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The u-joints are the same regardless; it's just the flange you need to obtain to match the output flange on the OD gearbox.
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There's a fair amount of interchange possible between 1600 and EARLY 2L engines; the big difference is in bore size. Assuming (and yes, that's a bit risky all these years after the fact, but....) that what you have has not been untouched inside, easiest initial ID of a given differential is by the serial number prefix, said number stamped on the bottom of the "nose" housing.
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Yes, they'll all pretty much bolt right in. Only thing to watch for is what gauge sending unit is fitted and how said sending unit is retained (screws or locking ring).
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The white rubber bumpers were optional on the original 948 series (except in North America, particularly the US, where they were standard equipment); at that point, the metal retaining strips were riveted to the valences. From the introduction of the 1200 series and thereafter, the rubber bumpers were standard equipment (at which time the retaining strips were spot welded on). As did the valences underneath, the retaining strips tended to rust, as the rubber could hold large quantities of dirt that would hold moisture. And, for a period of time, new rubber bumpers were not readily available. They are now, but they're not inexpensive!
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It seems nowadays that many folks assume that a car must be in "Concours" condition; otherwise, it simply isn't worthy. ;)
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What about unbolting the brake backing plate and just angling it around as needed? Is that possible?
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Ferny, one thing I just noticed is that the stay seems to be bolted to the inside of the bracket on the suspension turret, but it should be on the OUTSIDE. See "Paudman's" picture above and the attached from the Workshop Manual.