herald948
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Everything posted by herald948
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Haynes manual, eh? That might explain the confusion. 😉
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I admit to being a bit confused about the "no more than 5 pumps" part. What manual is that from? My early edition of the Factory Herald 1200 / Spitfire / Vitesse workshop manual says to grease until it exudes from the bearing. And that's pretty much what I have always done. I don't currently have access to all my factory literature, but I don't recall seeing any such "limitation" on rear hub greasing in any of the workshop or owners manuals, only on the water pump and steering rack (5 strokes only).
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I vote fuses!
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I've used all sorts of things over the years. Recently I stumbled across one of these and have found it very useful: Locking Grip Oil Filter Wrench http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Fliter-Wrench-Filters-Cylinder/dp/B003771FZM
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I've used all sorts of things over the years. Recently I stumbled across one of these and have found it very useful: Locking Grip Oil Filter Wrench http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Fliter-Wrench-Filters-Cylinder/dp/B003771FZM
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Vinyl doesn't shrink? How long has that guy been in the trimming business -- a week? two weeks? 😉 If my camera didn't need batteries, I'd be happy to provide a photo showing how vinyl shrinks. Granted, this is after some 47-48 years...but it does shrink!
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Well, the obvious modification is the substitution of twin SU HS2s and manifold for the 13/60 engine's original single Stromberg CD150. Without knowing the stamped serial number on the head, it's virtually impossible to tell if that's still a Herald head or if it might be from a Mk3 Spitfire or ???, and without pulling things apart it's almost impossible to tell if the head has been "worked" in any way or if there have been changes regarding pistons, camshaft, etc. If it's all stock save for the carbs, you're looking at a slight increase in power -- probably at higher revs, though, than the original configuration, and possibly a slight LOSS of low-end grunt. (I know that's true of the 1147cc Herald engines, but I'm not certain it is true of the 1296cc engines; perhaps others will confirm?)
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I replaced the original, 48-year-old rubber "washers" on mine to get rid of the (deteriorated original) rubber problems! 😀
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/201424.....424189136%26_rdc%3D1 They should be just fine. Only change I've ever been aware of (other than u-joint flange size, which does NOT affect the axle itself) is the longer axles on the later Spitfire and last of the GT6 models.
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Did you ever think to yourself: "I wonder if these people know how to focus their cameras (cell phones, whatever) when taking pictures?
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I'd like to see exactly how those clip-on mirrors are fitted; the photos in the auction listing are of no help.
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Note that this is for the Spitfire. Most information applies to the GT6, but the slave cylinder is NOT in the same location as on a Spitfire. It's been decades since I've tried, but I thought I remembered being able to access it on a GT6 from the engine bay?
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4080 wrote:I think they should always be retained & that people shouldn't junk 'em & fit Vitesse ones instead, as to me they virtually define a Herald as I presume they are unique?? I certainly can't think of any other vehice fitted with them.... Over the years, I've found the rubber bumpers to be extremely practical and useful. A slight bump on them, and the worst that usually happens is that whatever bumps it gets some chalky residue on it (usually my pants then I'm reaching into the boot). I love the Vitesse cappings -- on a Vitesse -- but they can be easily dented and scratched; same with the painted metal on valences that have NO cappings! :)
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Over the years, I've found the rubber bumpers to be extremely practical and useful. A slight bump on them, and the worst that usually happens is that whatever bumps it gets some chalky residue on it (usually my pants then I'm reaching into the boot). I love the Vitesse cappings -- on a Vitesse -- but they can be easily dented and scratched; same with the painted metal on valences that have NO cappings! 🙂
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For whatever it's worth (and because I had no other easy and available tool for doing it), I was able to cut through the bolt with a "Sawz-All" (reciprocating saw). You can spread the top of the link a bit to give a bit more room, and it doesn't hurt to try to get some of the exposed nylon bush material out of the way somehow, as there really is NOT much room to spare!
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Seems to me the earliest 2000 head should fit the 1600. Whether it's worth doing, I don't know!
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I don't know about alternatives, but a quality recore should put you right for the next 52 years! "Modernising" is, IMO, very much a "grey" area and often of questionable benefit.
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I agree, Mark, but I would add that this must be a very late (mid-1963-ish?) dash before that change to the small tach and speedo dash. I say that because of the "flush-mounted" switches and controls, as opposed to the earliest of the Vitesse 6 dashes, which featured the "overlay" dash with its beveled apertures for those switches and controls.
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Type 12 pad lining material tapers in slightly at the bottom. Type 14 pad lining material is pretty much as "square" as the backing plate itself. You can also see the difference at the top of the backing plates; Type 12 having more prominent "ears" where the pins go through.
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When Triumph started fitting them on the Spitfire Mk3, they were just before the pump. Seems as good a place as any, and that's where I've fitted them on my two current Heralds as well!
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If by "orange" you mean a sort of coppery colored metallic finish, then that's probably correct. On the other hand, if by "orange" you mean like a small-block Chevy valve cover, then no.
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I will essentially agree with the above advice, except to say that I remain a fan of rebuilding good original Girling cylinders with good Girling/TRW rebuild kits. As for remote bleeders, I suppose there's merit to them. OTOH, it's not as if rebleeding is a job you'll do on a monthly or even semi-annual basis. (If that proves to be the case, then there's something else amiss! ;D )
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With the dual mechanical gauge, I don't believe there's sufficient room for the water temp sender atop the thermostat housing without it fouling the bonnet. Regardless of where that sender is ultimately located, though, you'll need an adapter such as found on certain (ahem) MG cars, as the bulb part of the sender requires a "seat" that is not provided with the simple threaded hole on a thermostat housing or water pump housing.
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I know nothing beyond what I'm about to type, but my understanding over the years has been that racers of early Spitfires with the 1147 often sought out the 948TC head. I wish I could tell you more; sorry! Perhaps someone else will have some further insight on this.
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Notably, the 12/50 flange diameter is larger than that of the 1200. Length notwithstanding, they're not interchangeable.