BigT-DK
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Everything posted by BigT-DK
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Dude ! Sweet! What is the ET on them? Did they fit at the rear with no arch mods?
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Looks good! Do you have a picture or a sketch of this part: outer sill repair panel with nose £70 ??
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I have the same Rimmer item and had a sealing issue at the slave also. I ended up having to "remove" som metal on the slave face to get the fitting to seal in the bottom conical part. No copper washer fitted. (I think some aftermarket slaves may not have have the same specs as the originals) I have since rebuilt my original slave and have no sealing issues with the braided fitting on this.
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Here is a link to Andy Thompson's blog from some time ago. http://triumphwestoz.blogspot.co.uk/2009_04_01_archive.html This way you don't need the pickup points on the drag strut (as far as I can see)... I have a pair with brackets I can measure for you later today is need be.
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I had the the same question in this thread http://www.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1408119645/ I ended up putting a new seal kit in the original.... I still think its doable, you might need to enlarge the hole in the bulkead the MC goes through (I think wilwood type cylinder bodies are a larger diameter than the lockheed).
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So seals.. do I go for the cheap repro stuff or use the NOS/Branded stuff (Ebay has lots of Landrover stuff for the slave but I have only found one ebay seller with what looks like original branded master cylinder seals) I can also get repro stuff from all the usual suspects.
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For now I will order a couple of seal kits and [s][/s]build[s][/s] bodge a pressure bleeder... ( with 3 or 4 master cylinders and 4 slaves I should be able to produce one working set) I have a resto project in the garage awaiting assembly and this will get the "girling" type mod over the winter... thanks for your input
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Yes plenty available , as I have 3 or 4 defective ones on the shelf (the MKII version with external reservoir).. I have rebulit one already without success... A seal kit (for the original) is about 10 pounds, the item I linked to is around 25 pounds for brand new unit... So one more rebuild and I have spent almost as much as the new item would cost.
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Has anyone tried fitting this type of master cylinder, in place of the original clutch master? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Quality-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-0-625-Bore-Remote-Girling-Wilwood-type-/231044535415?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35cb53d477 I haven't had success with a hone/new seals in my original master. From the specs it seems I will have to enlarge the bulkhead hole by about 10mm, and also get a couple of fittings to connect everything up. (already have a braided hose/jic fittings in place)
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I don't think there is a need for a washer ? Here is a picture of mine (which doesn't leak)... LHD :-)
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WTD: Anti-Roll Bar & Engine Cross Member 76 2000TC
BigT-DK replied to Spitfire2500's topic in Running Gear
What about welding a pair of brackets to the existing crossmember ? I have an ARB Crossmember which hasn't been fitted yet I could measure for you.. (I am in Denmark so measurements would be metric :P) -
Keep up the good work I will post up a link on the Danish Triumph Club also (that should be Denmark covered at least ;D) rgds D
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Thanks Mate, when are you in the lock-up ?
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Does anybody have a picture of the "original" routing of the brake pipe on the rear trailing arm... The workshop manual and parts cataloque is a bit vague.. Seems to go round the rear of the spring and then down the front face along side the hub, but I can't make out where the metal pipe clip should go.. (plastic ones in one of the holes of course) I have splashed out on copper nickel pipe and nice brass fittings so may as well make it look right :P
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Blew the clutch slave, replaced it, blew replaceme
BigT-DK replied to jonnyk5614's topic in Drivetrain
Silly question but did you put the slave on the correct side of the mounting bracket? -
piman wrote:Hello Big T, regarding positioning the seals, it can be advantageous to move them to a different position than they came from if there is any sign of wear on the shafts. This means the lip sits on an unworn part of the shaft so gives a better seal. It all depends on how much lee way there is to fit them. Alec Yes, actually the best position for the seals seem to be in the same place as the old ones, but I will see if I can shuffle them a bit as the shaft is showing a little wear (further inboard they seem pitted though).. I was just concerned if there would be any problem with positioning the seals differently. No need for large hammers - the press did the job ;D
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Reviving my old thread. I did a lot of searching, but in the end ended up with rubber seals bought from witor / ebay. Couldn't find an online source for double lipped seals in the correct dimensions.. To do the side seals I bought a 10 ton bench press to get the flanges of the shaft.. they popped of at an indicated 7 tons :) (The bench press is also good for u-joints, if you get tired of lining things up in your vice....) Old side seals as well as the front seal were leather. I am about to re-assemble the shafts - and am unsure how far the seals need to sit in the housing... judging from the state of the flange the old seals were lined up with the outside edge of the housing (there is some pitting further in) so I would think this is where to place the new ones also? The seal "seals" very nicely on the flange in this position (and there is no pitting to damage the seal).. See picture.. Next question - will I need the press for re-assembly or can I drive the flange on with the nut?
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Here is a picture from my blog - with a spit engine (less flywheel) on a stand http://www.triumph2900.blogspot.se/2010_06_13_archive.html backplate held up fine, but the bolts aren't fit for re-use....
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I think that plastic tube is original? My saloon also had it - but I have changed to goodridge type a braided hose setup
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much easier to refit with the body tub removed ;D
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Did you end up using the short links ? Not making up som fancy schmanzy rod ends?? ;D
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4272 wrote:I have just been told AAQ is incorrect as they are spring loaded needles rather than fixed. yes, but you can remove the "top hat " and the needle base is identical to the fixed type :P the AAQ are also longer - than the BOs but they work just fine in my HS2s (AUD 257 I think)... I can take some pictures if you like
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My spitmkIII (standard worn oil pissing engine, but with K&Ns and extractor manifold) runs on AAQ needles... ran on BO needles before but seems to go better on the AAQ (I still think it can be improved though) I think thee AAQs are "richer" needle than the BO ? If you like to tinker - I can recommend this book http://www.amazon.com/The-Carburettor-High-Performance-Manual-Speedpro/dp/1845840739/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1/191-1053021-0163512 comes with a needle selection chart and also shows you how to modify your existing needles. I am sure someone on here has a few suggestions to needle choice to get you started.
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sweet :) seems every one Down Under (as a Scandinavian I don't know if this Term includes NZ as well) has a thing for period wheels 8) I LIKE IT !!!!
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hmmm, I already have the rimmer seals (but they were only a couple of quid).. anyone know of a decent source for the rubber seals?? I'm guessing the usual suspects all have the same supplier (as well as the Ebay vendors)..