drofgum

Glang, LED's won't light when the output voltage goes higher than battery voltage. Being diodes they only allow current to flow in one direction. So if wired so they light when there is no output they will only light when output is below battery voltage by a large enough amount to start light emission. Regards, Paul

True, but if the intent is to make the car roll more smoothly shims where shown in the pics are sufficient. Regards, Paul

Hi, Instead of connecting a battery for the first live test, use a small battery charger. The circuit breaker in the charger will open if there is a short, and the charger will not send damaging current through the harness. Regards, Paul

Jason, Along with supporting the inlet manifold the attachment points also transfer heat to the inlet to aid warm-up. Although a different design I have run my Spitfire for 37 years without those supports connected and have had no problems with the manifolds or the gaskets. Regards, Paul

Hi, A much better solution would be to find a longer tube. That way the assembly could be made to the correct overall width. Cheers, Paul

Banksy, You can also find the full end float by simply depressing the clutch pedal then with your dial indicator set up levering the pulley back towards the block. Regards, Paul

Clive with a premade set it won't be all that good because it would have to have an opening large enough for the fittings at the ends. A hinged two-piece straightener would be a way to solve that, but a straight section as long as the straightening tool would be necessary. Regards, Paul

Hi, I agree the sticky Bendix is most likely the cause of the problem. Thorough cleaning and colloidal graphite is the fix. My multimeter test would find high resistance connections in the high current starter circuit without requiring a special meter. The initial test should be made from the battery positive terminal to the starter power connection post. That way all of the connections will be tested. If a large voltage drop is found in that test the trouble can be isolated by moving either meter lead to the next spot in the line: battery post-battery clamp-cable-solenoid battery connection post-solenoid starter connection post-starter cable-starter connection post. Kind regards, Paul

Hi, If you really want to use a multimeter to test the connections from the battery to the starter use the volts scales and measure the voltage drop in the whole run from battery positive to starter battery connection. It is likely you will need one of the lower voltage scales to read this drop, but start with the normal scale to check 12 V. That is kinder to the instrument. Cheers, Paul

Anthony, You and many others seem to have missed the original point of Koni dampers. The original intent was they would work exactly as the standard damper did, but when worn they could be adjusted to recover their rebound damping action so they would behave as new again. This is how Koni advertised them back when our cars were current. So expecting an improved ride from them is not really reasonable unless there is something very wrong with the dampers they replace. You posted that you have used Superflex bushings at the ends of the dampers. Depending on which ones you chose those may be contributing to your disappointment. Most urethane bushings are harder than the original rubber ones. This improves handling at the expense of the ride. Age can harden the original suspension bushings which also makes the ride harsher. Unfortunately the new rubber bushings available seem to be of questionable quality. So replacing with new may not give long-term improvement. Kind regards, Paul

Velocita Rosso, The next time you change the oil stop about a liter below the normal fill. Then you can add oil in any increment you wish to learn the distance it raises the level on the dip stick. Regards, Paul

Amy, At the differential the small flange from the existing prop shaft could be moved to a 1500 prop shaft. The universal joints are the same. Cheers, Paul

Adrian, The device you are calling the voltage stabiliser is actually the voltage regulator. That controlled the output of the old generator. The voltage stabiliser takes the system voltage and turns it on and off to give a resulting average voltage of 10 V. That gives a stable average voltage for the temperature and fuel level gauges. The pulsed nature of the voltage to the temperature sender would make it a difficult signal to use as you intend for fan control. There are electronic versions of the voltage stabiliser that don't pulse the power, but rather electronically reduce their output to a steady 10 V. Using one of them would make your idea easier. Regards, Paul

Adrian, I attached the trigger wheel to the engine side of the crank pulley. For the sensor I built a bracket that bridged across the timing cover, using two of the cover mounting bolt holes. I used long bolts and spacers to get the sensor in line with the trigger wheel. There were slotted holes to allow adjustment of clearance. The attached pic shows how it was done. Cheers, Paul

Ferny, I once, years ago, replaced the shaft re-using the yoke. It was an enormous job to remove the yoke from the old shaft. You will be better served seeking a good driveshaft assembly. Best regards, Paul

Yorkshire_spam, Although DOT 5.1 has similar temperature rating to DOT 5 it is not silicone fluid it is glycol based just as DOT 3 and DOT 4. So adding DOT 5.1 is mixing the fluid types the same as adding DOT 3 would be. Regards, Paul

Antonnick, One trick I have heard of to help avoid the problem of knocking a needle out of place is to place the cups in the freezer to chill the grease. That also contracts the cups a small amount which helps them fit into the yokes. Regards, Paul

Standardthread, You can't take those listings by Burlen as Gospel. you would think after all these years they would have corrected the listings for Mk1&2 Spitfires to show the correct engine size. Regards, Paul

Adrian, Here:http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/springs.htm Cheeers, Paul

Adrian, I believe the lower spring seat on Spitfire front dampers is set lower on the body of the damper than the seat on the Herald damper. Using them would lower he front of the car without changing the springs. Cheers, Paul

Danny, Did you check for power with the dipped beams on? The wire colour looks right for them, so it would make sense if that was the source. Cheers, Paul

Paul, The inner sill has the flange which attaches to the floor turned out rather than in, So the welds that hold it to the floor would only be visible from below. Regards, Paul

I did a little checking and I can't find any Standard engines with a 2.90 bore. The only engines Standard Triumph made with that bore are the 1296 and 1500 which of course were introduced after the Standard marque was dropped. The early Post-war 1800 did have a 73mm bore, but that is distinctly smaller that the 73.7mm equivalent to 2.90" I have seen four ring pistons for other marques intended to control oil consumption in well-worn engines, but when bored to an oversize that seems excessive. Cheers, Paul

Glang, See the rear spring chart in this link: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/springs.htm The spring length doesn't change.The two springs used in the MkIV for short and long axles are listed in the chart. Same length when fitted. Cheers, Paul

The length of the spring has nothing to do with the camber of the wheels. That is solely determined by the ride height. Long axles don't affect the camber directly they merely push the hub bearing carriers out. The vertical links just take a different angle to the axles. Similarly a longer spring would just push the top of the vertical links out without changing the camber. The longer axles do give slightly more leverage on the ends of the spring, so there may be a slight decrease in ride height, and consequently camber. There was no part number change between the short axle spring and the long axle spring. The most likely reason for Canley Classics' recommendation is that the new springs on the market are stiffer than the originals and lead to greater ride height. That gives positive camber which is undesirable. Cheers, Paul