drofgum
-
Posts
565 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by drofgum
-
Simon, I have broken several, but all were early 4.11:1 units. Mostly have had the stub axles break, but lost a tooth from the crown wheel or pinion on one which poked a hole in the case. Not acting particularly the hooligan, but fairly hard launches. Oh, all were behind an 1147. Regards, Paul
-
Tom, Any Spitfire after 1970 will have a different front to the chassis frame. So a direct bolt-on doesn't work. Cheers, Paul
-
I remember that! Well, the fact it happened. In the TSSC mag. The timing chain cover was replaced with a thick ali plate, with grooves machined for oilways. It used std sprockets, must have been machined to suit the crank and cam. I don't remember a tensioner, but that can't be too hard? Struggling to envisage how to reverse the direction though. Cliftyhanger, Probably the simplest way to reverse the rotation is to interpose a single pair of gears in the cam drive. Cheers, Paul
-
Taylor, There are several threads about those carbs on the Triumph Experience Forums Spitfire & GT6 forum in North America. Unfortunately that site is currently off line due to hardware failure. It should be back by the weekend. Regards, Paul
-
Paul, Caster is adjusted by moving shims from the front to rear (or vice versa) lower wishbone mounting. Moving shims to the rear increases caster. Regards, Paul
-
Greta, The overheated condition of the taped green wires indicates there has been a problem in the circuit, but not necessarily at the voltage stabiliser. One of those wires supplies the stabiliser and the other takes power to something else running on the circuit. A problem on the supplied side will overheat both wires continuing back to the fuse box. A bad connection can heat up and overheat the wires at the connection, but the damage won't go far along the wires. Good luck, Paul
-
Straight Six, I don't think it would be unusual for the ends to be uneven. Any stiffness in the pivot box might lead to the last side apart being higher. The springs can also take a set over time, and it would show under those conditions. Try pulling up on the low side or pushing down on the high side, it may even out. Cheers, Paul
-
John, That thin layer of lacquer keeping the copper clean and bright is also intended to act as a sealant when the gasket gets heated. Regards, Paul
-
John, Yes, I meant the cam shaft machining tolerances might have been that lax. After all some machine had to index the blank so each lobe could be ground. That indexing device would not have been perfect. Regards, Paul
-
Hi, I haven't seen it suggested before, but it occurs to me the reason for Triumph allowing 2+ degrees of tolerance on the cam timing might be because the individual lobes weren't held closer than that to exact timing. So if number one inlet is set spot on some other cam may be off by up to 2 degrees in either direction. Regards, Paul
-
Batman, Your differential unit has a crush sleeve spacer inside. It is important to put the nut back exactly where it is. To do so mark the nut, flange and shaft before you take anything apart. Then as you undo the nut count the turns including any partial turn. When reassembling put the nut back on the exact same number of turns. That should put all of your original marks back where they started. Good luck, Paul
-
Hazen, That motor will have a very low resistance anyway. Any normal ohmmeter will read continuity through it. Either take it to the place that tested the batteries for you, or just connect it and try it. Regards, Paul
-
Hazen, Using a Dremel Mototool or even a hobby knife to cut the "nubbers" off makes removing the bushings easier. Regards, Paul
-
Hazen, The wear on the brass contact where the wire connects to the slip ring is certainly where the intermittent spurious horn sounding comes from. You may need to look at the steering wheel for the other surface rubbing there. Regards, Paul
-
Hazen, Due to environmental regulations there may not be much lead in wheel weights. You are probably doubly better off with preformed bars of lead filler. You will know you have the right alloy and it will be clean. If you can't find it anywhere else Eastwood probably still sells body solder. All the best, Paul
-
Tom, Before cutting the washers, try pressing them on using a vise and some suitable sized socket or such. Protect the finish on the nut with a piece of plastic or soft metal over the vise jaw. Regards, Paul
-
Hazen, No need for a separate supply to each relay. When the main beam is working the dipped beam is off, and vice versa. 30 A (American rating) is also a bit more than needed unless high power headlamps are to be used. All the best, Paul
-
Abboracing, ATDC timing is for emissions and only with vacuum retard connected. Tony's advice is good. Regards, Paul
-
Hi, Along with the preignition symptom, oil has a lower octane rating than petrol. So having some oil mixed into the charge will promote pinking. Regards, Paul
-
Hi, I think the re-routing of the fuel line was related to crash safety. The back of the engine being less exposed. As far as temperature goes, routing the line between the water pump and the thermostat housing doesn't strike me as a cool route for the line. Regards, Paul
-
Jamie, As the others have said, but the correct master cylinder would be similar to the clutch but have a taller reservoir, not larger in diameter. Cheers, Paul
-
Hi, I put Volvo 240 seat heaters in my Spitfire Mk2. The only problem I had was it took a long time for the heat to work its way through the thick upholstery. On short drives they weren't effective. On longer journeys they were very nice to have. Cheers, Paul
-
Hi, Not too sure about this. If a GT6 Delco dizzy cap is like a Spitfire cap the center contact is fixed. The spring loading is built into the rotor. All the best, Paul
-
Markcro, The connections you describe for the coil +ve are correct for a ballast wire to supply a 6V coil. The pink with white wire is the ballast wire. A 12V coil will produce weak spark when installed on that circuit. At higher revs misfires can be expected. Cheers, Paul
-
Markcro, The progressive decrease in voltage looks like a bad connection getting progressively hotter and worse. Since the battery charge voltage stays steady the problem seems to be somewhere other than the alternator circuit. As a guess a bad splice where the ballast wire has been bypassed could be the cause. Best of luck, Paul