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Jason, A hydraulic switch might be your way forward, but I'm not a fan of them. They are one more place to develop a leak in the system. If you go hydraulic, substituting a four way hydraulic fitting for the three way where the front brake lines split would give you the extra port for the switch. Regards, Paul

Dave, The usual small metric size tubing is 4.75mm. When you check that against 3/16" you will find the difference is less than 0.010", close enough to work as designed. However the ISO flare has a slightly different form to the Imperial flare. Regards, Paul

Steven, If you haven't tossed them already, the metal rings from the broken gears can be used as the tube that pushes directly on the new gear. You can use something else that might not be suitable to push on the gear to push on that ring. Regards, Paul

Andy, You have it right on the interior side of the frame and the dash.  On the dash only the part that would otherwise be exposed metal gets the vinyl The instruments are in wood. The outside of the frame was body colour on earlier cars, but changed to black after commission number FD75000. Regards, Paul

Colin, I'm mostly with glang on this. You should look at number 7 valve to check if it is now stuck part way open. If it is, that explains the pushrod jumping out of position. Even a slow returning valve can cause that. You might also take a glance at the inside of the rocker cover to look for marks where the valve adjuster screws have hit it. This is unusual, but does happen occasionally with skimmed cylinder heads and alloy covers. But do make sure all valves can operate as they should. Best of luck, Paul

George, To get 120hp from a 1500 you will be extensively modifying the engine. The head, cam, exhaust, etc. will all have to be done carefully to get there. Dual 40 DCOEs is probably the way to go. Don't bother with a single. The mixture distribution will never be as even as you need to get the power you are aiming for with a single. Weber carbs aren't magic, they take careful setting up to get the best from them. Once set they are stable. The setting up process will include trying different jets for several functions. Each jet will change what is needed for some of the others. To start the process with the Webers will mean setting them up again each time something else is upgraded. New cam? Reset the Webers. Ported head? Reset the Webers. Sticking to the SUs will reduce the carb trouble to changing needles each time and tuning to suit. Once the final modifications are made the Webers can be set up once and checked on a rolling road. Good luck, Paul

Danny, I suspect you have dual circuit brakes with only the front on the vacuum booster. Booster sticking on won't hold the rear brakes in that case. Best of luck, Paul

Paul, There should be air deflectors on either side ahead of the radiator. If they aren't installed the  air doesn't go through the rad as it should, but goes around it instead. Also the temperature gauges are fairly well known for inaccuracy, their usual problem is reading too high because the sending units available often aren't suitable. If the car has the 22" (full width) radiator with the remote header tank that was the original configuration Triumph built. It was changed because the cars ran too cool. It is often observed that if the radiator doesn't actually steam and blow out coolant the engine isn't actually overheating. Regards, Paul

JC5515, In your pic it looks as if the fast idle screw is fitted incorrectly. The tip of the screw should bear on the fast idle cam. Regards, Paul

Craig, It is even easier than Glang says. Once the special plastic (Plastigauge) is crushed in the bearing, you simply check the width it has spread out to, against a scale provided. You can read off the clearance in thousandths of an inch or hundredths a mm. No micrometer required. A check for ovality can be made by doing the same check with the crankshaft at TDC and half way between top and bottom center. Regards. Paul

Nick, The green/yellow wire is the heater fan low speed wire. Look at 53 and 54 in the diagram below. I tried to link it, but wound up with the diagram on the page. Cheers, Paul

Nick, The green/yellow wire is the heater fan low speed wire. Look at 53 and 54 in the diagram below. I tried to link it, but wound up with the diagram on the page. Cheers, Paul

Richard, If you mean having the section between the overriders removed, I think those are done on an individual basis.  The tricky bit is what to do about the open ends where the bumper has been cut. The overriders can be filled to close the opening , or the stub ends of the bumpers can be closed. Either way rechroming is on the cards. Cheers, Paul

Greta, I have owned my Mk2 for 34 years and only used a 7 lb cap the entire time. In contrast to the later Spitfires it runs on the cool side. So I have never seen the need for a 13 lb cap. Cheers, Paul

Matt, There is one more thing to check. Crankshaft end play. Push the crank fully toward the back and watch the pulley as a helper steps on the clutch pedal. Any but the slightest motion is too much. 1/16" is way too much. If the crankshaft can move that much the clutch mechanism won't have much reserve motion to release. Best of luck, Paul

Marky, The Speedi Sleeve I used was Federal-Mogul 99287 It seems most repair sleeves use the same numbers. Cheers, Paul

Jazzman, In your attempt to fix the dizzy being 180 degrees out did you take the distributor drive gear out and turn it 180 or are you just trying to plug things back together with the new dizzy and leads in the new order? The drive gear sets the position of the distributor rotor. The workshop manual gives a fairly clear diagram of the position the drive gear should have when the engine is at TDC for number one cylinder. Best of luck, Paul

Stephen, Search for videos on the 1500 hood there is little difference. Cheers, Paul

Gentle pressure on the pedal will often show worn seals before they fail so badly that a hard push won't apply the brakes. The symptom is a sinking pedal when the pedal is held gently. Extra pressure will force the lips of the seals out against the cylinder walls for an effective seal. Regards, Paul

Drew, That "positive" wire is the supply to the instrument illumination bulb socket. With a little force that socket can be removed from the back of the speedometer. You can then decide whether to solder on a new wire or replace the entire socket. Cheers, Paul

Brendan, I believe those reinforce the floor where it bolts to the chassis frame inside the foot well. They may be hidden under the floor. Regards, Paul

Pete, Very easy to see. The extra stud is on the manifold side so it shows. Count the head studs/nuts on that side and you will see six.  The eight port heads for that block had two of the full length studs removed and replaced them with short ones below the paired inlet ports.                                                                                    Cheers,                                                                                    Paul

Hi, Concave side forward also puts the convex side toward the timing chain. It is less likely to have the edge caught that way.                                                                                     Cheers,                                                                                     Paul

Kevin, It would seem to me that somehow the brown wire from the B+ terminal got shorted to that black wire. The available current on the brown wire is limited only by the resistance of the connections. That is plenty to overheat both the smaller black wire and the brown wire.                                                                            Best of luck,                                                                            Paul

Stuart, The polished bars of the grill were anodized to prevent oxidization. This protection wears off over the years and polishing to restore the shine doesn't restore it. So the grill will lose its shine more quickly than it originally did.                                                                               Cheers,                                                                               Paul