drofgum
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Everything posted by drofgum
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lancepar, I believe the union usually used to join the two sections of the brake pipe to the rear wheels is suitable. Cheers, Paul
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nang wrote:How about fitting the hub with bearings but temporarily leave the seal out. Tighten the bearing as required to give necessary play. Mark where the nut sits in relation to the axle, pull it apart then fit the seal and reassemble to the mark you have made. ;D Tony. Tony, I have 2 manuals that give that as the procedure for setting the front wheel bearing play. One of them is a copy of the factory workshop manual. Cheers, Paul
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M807PP, I'm not so sure of the straight wheel having the faulty trunnion. If you have rolled the car some distance since lowering it after the spring change, the wheel that has positive camber is more likely to have the stuck trunnion. If you haven't rolled the car you should do so before working on the trunnions. Cheers, Paul
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cook1e wrote:I have a Triumphtune performance Tuning manual from the early 90s and in there they recommend Konis on Spitfires, GT6s, Herald and Vitesses should be set up at + one half turn for fast road use on the rear, ie half a turn from the sodftest setting. One the front they recommend + two half turns (why they don't call this + 1 turn I dont know!) for fast road use. Cookie, They say two half turns to work in a similar way to Koni who call a half turn a sweep. One sweep is about as far as it is comfortable to adjust a hand held unit without repositioning the hands. Each half turn is one step in hardness. Cheers, Paul
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John, Yes the screen can be fitted with the crash pad in place. As to how much trouble the screen fitter will have, well, he may never have seen a screen fitted in a rubber gasket before! Cheers, Paul
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Ingieuk, Where you are replacing old parts that may have been bent with new straight ones of different configuration you can expect to need the alignment attended to. Your procedure is not at fault. Assuming renewing parts won't change alignment can be wishful thinking though. All the best, Paul
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System6, and Sidewaysste, Before changing instrument bezels, try some sort of solvent on the existing ones. Some of the black bezels are paint over chrome plate. Maybe save some coin. Cheers, Paul
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Wim, When changing the pinion seal it is important to permanently mark the flange, the shaft, and the nut before you disturb them. Then the turns required to remove the nut should be counted including the partial turn. Once the seal has been renewed the flange should be put back on the shaft with the marks aligned and the nut turned on the same number of turns until the mark also lines up. Overtightening will add crush to the crush spacer changing its setting. Not tightening to the same point will leave slack in the bearings. Good luck, Paul
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Louis, You will need two of 514370 Cheers, Paul
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Engine rebuild mystery - can you ID a 1500 engine?
drofgum replied to rockrockmcrock's topic in Engine
rockrockmcrock, That wide single port gasket matches the manifold, not the head. There is no point to dividing the port on the gasket where the manifold has no metal. Cheers, Paul -
Louis, It is going to take serious chassis frame mods to get the rear down near to that level without obvious negative camber. Alternatively you can go with Rotoflex type rear suspension, but I suspect that too will need some mods to work well when set near that level. Cheers, Paul
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Mk3, The Triumph part number is 128572 for the later bearing. I tried looking it up in a Timken cross reference , but there is no listing for that number. Paul
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MK3, A note of caution: before you purchase bearings check the serial number of your differential unit. Mk3 Spitfires had a change during production. Units with serial numbers higher than 120000 have different output shaft bearings to earlier units. These later units also have stronger output shafts. Sadly the stronger parts won't fit the earlier units. Cheers, Paul
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Chris, Lifting the car at the center of each end in turn is an easy way of finding which end of the car has the problem causing the lean. The end that is off the ground when the car is level is the end causing the lean. Cheers, Paul
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2154 wrote:The TR4,5 & 6 and GT6 mk 1 & 2 (and Spitfires 1,2,& 3) share the same windscreen so I would assume that the wiper sweep would be the same. The required sweep would depend on the position of the wiper spindles on the bulkhead. Wheelbox wheel size and the throw of the wiper rack set by the final drive wheel in the wiper motor gear case are the things that set the sweep of the wipers. Cheers, Paul
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Baz, The oil feed may be directly responsible for the pinking as the oil added to the mixture will lower the effective octane. Do as Alex suggests and confirm oil supply to the valve gear after removing the external feed. Normally there isn't a lot of oil going to the rockers, but there must be some. All the best, Paul
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Tim, The bonnet catches are riveted together. Cutting the rivets is the way to get them apart, but replacement rivets may be a problem to find. Small screws with nuts will probably come unscrewed, or interfere with the operation of the mechanism. Good luck, Paul
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daedslusminos, No need for inserts on cast iron heads with leaded fuel. Only once badly damaged would inserts have been used before unleaded. A safe assumption if all seats have been done. Cheers Paul
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Freebird, Make sure the clutch disk moves freely on the gearbox first motion shaft. Any binding on the splines might cause it to drag against either the flywheel or the clutch cover. Best of luck, Paul
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Dan, There are no standard Spitfires with Rotoflex. All Spitfire rear dampers should also fit a Mk1 GT6. Whether the damping would suit is a different matter. Most seem to sell only one part number. Cheers, Paul
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Isn't it possible to change the "clock angle" to make it fit? Most have a separate mounting plate that can be repositioned. Paul
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Mik, Measure the old and new wheel cylinders. ISTR there are some new ones that are too long. Cheers, Paul
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Martin, It seems as if the slave cylinder piston is reaching the snap ring at the open end of the bore before the clutch releases. If it feels as if the clutch is being operated when you press the pedal, perhaps you need to move the slave cylinder forward in its mounting. If the pedal doesn't feel like it is doing anything you may have missed the release lever pin when installing the slave cyl. There is also the possibility that the engine thrust washers have dropped into the pan. Check that by levering the crank pulley toward the engine and watching as a helper steps on the clutch pedal. Any motion more than the thickness of a hair indicates too much end play. Motion of about 1-2 mm indicates the thrust washers have dropped. Don't run the engine with dropped thrust washers, you may still be able to save it. Best of luck, Paul
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Martyn, Just a quick note. The Jaeger gauges are Smith's too. The back of the case will be marked "Smith's Motor Accessories LTD." Cheers, Paul
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8735 wrote:Edit: Just realised it doesnt really matter about the 2 wires up the stick to swuitch which way round.....it either be 'in' is 'in' or 'in' is 'out' and 'out' is 'in' Steve, Wire placement makes no difference. "In" is in no matter which wire is on which terminal. The switch merely connects the two wires together when put "in" and separates them when set to "out". Cheers, Paul