drofgum
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Everything posted by drofgum
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Nick, What do you use for a rebuild of the master cylinder now that it isn't standard size? Curious, Paul
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Hi, The pressure wouldn't be much different being set to suit the ZS carbs on the GT6 instead of the SUs on the Spitfire. The flow rate is always set by the opening of the float valves in the carbs. The GT6 pump might be able to pump more, but no more than the carbs allow will be pumped. Cheers, Paul
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Piman, When these cars were new there was some argument in favour of this dimming relay. In modern traffic anything to improve the visibility of these cars is helpful. Brighter lights give you more chance of getting the attention of the more oblivious drivers sharing the road with you. Cheers, Paul
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Wim, The flywheel must be removed before the spigot bush. Then you may find the bush loose enough to remove with a finger. If not, Pete Lewis' grease trick is an old standby. Cheers, Paul
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Ningaloo, The front lifting eye is built into the generator adjusting link. The rear one is held to the head by the rear two head nuts on the manifold side. These are on the two studs that are longer than the other nine. Cheers, Paul
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Hi, And rather than loose nuts, bolts etc. use chain. You can secure one end at the filler opening to make retrieval simple. You will know you haven't left anything inside when finished. Paul
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Hi, Terrible place to store a spanner! Paul
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Bob, You do have a difficult situation there. If you heat a spring enough to reshape it it won't be tempered correctly to act as a spring when it cools unless you are very lucky. If you cut a spring to shorten it the rate gets higher. That is, the spring will be stiffer once cut. You can at least find the actual installed rate of springs you have at hand by adding weight to the car and measuring the amount that it lowers once it has stabilized. For example you could place 50Kg sacks of sand above each front wheel roll the car a few meters and measure the ride height at the front. Best of luck, Paul
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yorkshire_spam, Ferny was correct in reply 1. It is 7/16"square. Cheers, Paul
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Hazen, The copper crush washers would be available at your FLAPS. The washer is placed around the male thread. There is a flat surface on both the wheel cylinder and the hose. the washer is trapped between those surfaces and, being soft, crushes like a gasket. All the best, Paul Friendly Local Auto Parts Store = FLAPS
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Oscar, There will be no air leak where the float chamber attaches to the carb body. On your Mk1 the throttle shafts are more likely and then maybe the three-piece inlet manifold. Best of luck, Paul
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RRMR, The output seals and pinion seal do not require opening the case to change them. In the case of the output seal the four Allen head screws holding the side plate to the case must be removed and the shaft assembly slides out. The tricky part is removing the snap ring from the shaft in order to remove the bearing and seal housing from the shaft. The bearing is a press fit so it takes some extracting too. Where you have so much end play in that shaft there is the possibility that the snap ring has jumped out of its groove. If that turns out to have happened, look carefully at the shaft as I suspect it will be damaged and won't hold the ring properly anymore. Good luck, Paul
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Hazen, I used to do that. Wires on, on Saturday afternoon. Show on Sunday and wires off after the show. Even did it once with a 200 mile round trip to the show. Cleaning the car got old before swapping the wheels did. All the best, Paul
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DannyB, That is a good piston stop, but it won't lock the engine. The engine could always turn in the opposite direction. Locking the engine on a piston would also risk making a hole in the piston. Regards, Paul
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Harry, It is so easy and quick to refit the suspect rotor arm that I would do so just to be sure which part was the cause of the trouble. Condenser life is unpredictable. Some seem to have very long lives. Others are not worth fitting their lives are so short. So if the old condenser is not the cause of the poor running don't replace it just because it has some miles and years on it. Regards, Paul
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Hi, The home fuse box convention derives from way back when open knife switches were common. These were always installed with on in the up position because they then couldn't fall into the on position. If the handle dropped, it dropped the switch into the off position. Cheers, Paul
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Hello, I'm not sure about later cars, but my Mk2 Spitfire had the vinyl stapled to the door cards when I got it. No reason to think they were replacement cards. Later I bought some very good replacement door cards and other similarly constructed panels for the car and they all have staples. The staples are very short, but they hold nicely. Regards, Paul
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Mark, Yes. That would be safe. Paul
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Dirk, You may find that the type 14 just brushes the inner side of the edge of the hub flange. The edge was beveled on the Mk3 and later hubs. Very little material needs to be removed to make them fit. Cheers, Paul
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Dirk, You may find that the type 14 just brushes the inner side of the edge of the hub flange. The edge was beveled on the Mk3 and later hubs. Very little material needs to be removed to make them fit. Cheers, Paul
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The simple answer to this is assembly costs would have been higher without improving warranty claims. The challenges we face this many years into the life of these cars wouldn't have been considered when they were being designed. The separable vertical link would probably have a similar rust problem by now. Regards, Paul
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You have to check them with a straight edge first. Some of them aren't straight enough to seal. Cheers, Paul
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Sam, A safety switch isn't only for rollover situations. It shuts the pump off in circumstances when it might be pumping fuel through a broken line and increasing the fire hazard. Only fully automatic fuel cut-off should be considered acceptable. Be safe, Paul
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BiTurbu228, From this link:http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/springs.htm I find the fitted eye to eye length should be 1047mm. Cheers, Paul