Bainzy
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Everything posted by Bainzy
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It's up to you to some extent, though copying other people's installations always seems to work pretty well! Though I would still try to understand why people are using what they've got. Here's my current 1500 EFI parts list, hoping to get this installed within the next 2 months: 1344 wrote:What injectors,what throttle body and what sensors ? Rover 216 are injectors good to about 100bhp. Changed my mind on these, will now be using Vectra V6 ones like James so they can cope with further engine mods. You need to figure out what flow rates you require, there's calculators on the megasquirt literature and other websites. Rover 25 throttle body. 48mm with a fully opening butterfly. Has TPS built in. Temp sensor from an MPI mini. 5/8" UNF so it screws straight into a Triumph water pump housing. GM Intake Air Temp sensor, because the boss I have can be tig welded into my plenum and Megasquirt already has calibration tables for it. Quote:As for the fuel rail, you have a main tube then "fingers" that conect to the top of the injector. Do the fingers have to as short as possable or can they be any length ? I was thinking of NOT having a rail mounted above the injectors but making a short rail mounted on the baulkhead with four braided lines going to the injectors. Probably doable but a hell of a lot of work for modern injectors. They seal with an O-ring inside these 'fingers', if you didn't have a secure bracket clamping each one down, the pressure of the fuel would make them fly off. Quote:Would the long feed pipes cause problems ? Probably not as long as you route things sensibly. Diameter will be more of an issue than length. Quote:I hope to use the smallest injectors that I can, are bike injectors smaller ? Tiny injectors with braided hoses should look good,as long as it all works Where are you wanting to mount them? Location makes a difference to how the car will perform/respond.
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John, I would seriously recommend wax protecting the bodywork behind the protectors. Just a tin of waxoyl poured into a pot, heated and brushed on would be sufficient. That way when muck sits between the protector and the bodywork, you won't have as much concern when you can't clean it off quickly. Nice idea these.
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If you find you have a TR5 grind cam, all is not lost Scott - PM me details as I'm in the market for one for my (soon to be injected) 1500.
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Impact wrench removes it in seconds, and you were right in the original post, its 1 13/16", not 1 7/8.
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It's baffling how nobody makes an off the shelf modified sump. ;D I want to modify mine, though don't really know how I'm going to do it without access to a welder.
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I like that idea Alec, I also thought about using a miniature spy camera feed in there but it would probably be cheaper to pay for a rolling road than to rig all that up properly. Nick, only Triumph's super hot 18-58 standard 1500 camshaft ;D Eventually to be replaced with a TR5 type grind, if I ever finish porting the high compression cylinder head I plan on matching it with...
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Thanks Nick. I would've put it down to that, though every other range when driving doesn't really suffer from this issue. You can accelerate in most scenarios and find the AFR drops nicely into the mid 12's, then returning to 14-15 if you hold that throttle position. It's not just accelerating that brings it on, I just used that as a badly worded example of where it can be reproduced. It will also resurface when coming onto a dual carriageway, steadily driving until you get to about 40mph+ when it will go back to normal ranges. It's annoying how I've got so close yet can't seem to find this lean area yet, and know I could find it instantly on a rolling road but don't really see the point in paying for a session when I'm going EFI soon and also changing the cam + head work, since the settings will just end up being wrong again.
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I've been tuning the carb needles this week in combination with the LC-1 wideband, and am getting really close to having it in perfect tune. None of the profiles people usually recommend for filters+exhaust seem to work with this car, maybe it's the 88c thermostat or the Megajolt, or the fact that the K&N's are deeper than most or because of the way the Bell 4/2/1 manifold exits the head so nicely. They all end up requiring a really rich idle otherwise they'll be too lean everywhere else. Anyway! After getting fed up with AAR's I tried AAA, better but still way off looking at the wideband. So I set to work modifying them using Des Hamill's guide in his book on SU Carburettors - using calibrated wooden dowels inside the dashpots, but using the wideband to check each needle position was around 14.7. This worked perfectly for everywhere up to about needle position 4, at which the car was reaching 5000rpm (it idles just between positions 1 and 2). Positions 5 to 16 therefore can't be measured in this way (though it won't reach 16...), but it's a bit tricky figuring out which needle station the car is at for a given scenario. I've got the foot-to-the-floor area (top end) pretty close by making the upper half of the needles like AAM's (which are quite rich), but there's still a lean spot somewhere so perhaps someone might be able to give guidance on where to look. It basically exists when you're travelling at around 40-50mph in OD top, and quickly stab your accelerator pedal down further - after a second or two or if you apply more throttle the carbs will catch up and give the correct AFR. Should I be looking at needle stations around 9-11? Or higher? I tried taking a little off 7 and 8 and couldn't see any measurable improvement to this flat spot, obviously don't want to take too much off any one spot.
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http://www.webcon.co.uk/Downloads/Webcon%20carb%20pressure%20fuel%20pump.pdf How would one of these perform as a low pressure pump to feed the swirl pot? (bearing in mind the swirl pot will also have the return feed from the high pressure line coming back into it and a vent to the tank at the top).
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Couldn't get this to work yesterday when the car was running, despite it working fine when the ignition wasn't on. I was getting no readings and error code 3, and figured out that it just didn't like being on when the car was being turned over - must do something bad to it. Today I wired it up so instead of taking feed from the ignition wire (like the Megajolt) and coming on with key position 2, it now takes it's power from the radio feed - so it comes on with key positions 1, 2 and importantly, goes off when cranking. It's now working perfectly, and the DB blue gauge is giving me readings that fluctuate while the car is running (haven't had chance to take it for a run yet though), but I'd still like the wiring to be better. I don't want the sensor coming on when the key is at position 1, as that means it's going to be on when I park up and have the cd player on. Is this relay wiring going to do what I think it will (power the LC-1+sensor from key position 2 onwards, but still cut out when cranking)?
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Got my bung welded in today by someone that specialises in doing exhausts and motorsport stuff I found locally, can't believe how quick it is to weld things like this. I really need to learn, especially if I'm going to have a go at making a plenum! Fingers crossed the sensor now goes in okay, though I'm pretty confident it's been welded very close to the angle I worked out. Not looking forward to refitting the exhaust, it's a pain doing it without a pit.
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Measured up the wideband position today. Bit tight in there between the gearbox and chassis but having a shallow lambda boss will help clearance somewhat.
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Imagine if they did these in 13": http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/large_wheel_pages/b46_classic.html Centre lock D type wheels on a late Spitfire with 3 eared spinners. Can't think of anything better to be honest.
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Tank coming out isn't a big deal anyway, biggest effort is merely taking the interior panels off to get to the few bolts holding it in place and the hose clips. When do you reckon yours would be done by Clive?
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Looks like somebody's already tried it Clive - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2476479/1976-triumph-spitfire/page-3
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Gt6s wrote: What are you using the twin SU's modified into throttle bodies ? Yes fuel return needs to be unrestricted, failing on this results in overly high pressure at low rpm, resulting in high fueling at low speed, unnessesary map complications. How do I know this ? I'll be using a DIY plenum with a 48mm Rover throttle body. At what size does a fuel return start to become restricted? I would've thought the flow requirements would be less given that there's a lot less pressure coming out of the top of the swirl pot compared to what the pumps require. jcarruthers wrote:You need a decent breather too :) How do I know this? :) Would a vented cap be insufficient as a breather? cliftyhanger wrote:I am planning on an in-tank pump. No reason to be difficult. I am using a golf IV pump, I "think" it will be just long enough to touch the bottom of the tank when fitted. A bit of slat steel plate has been made up with the correct sized hole for the pump, and this will need fitting to the top of the tank, cutting off the flange at the same time. I think it may be tack welded then soldered to avoid distortion of the plate, but will cross that bridge later. In tank pump is neat, and hopefully a simpler and quieter solution. This would probably be my favourite solution if it weren't experimental. I'd like to keep my original fuel tank if I can as it was restored and in great condition, so if I end up doing anything to it I'd like to know for certain that it would work well...
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Thanks Marcus!
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Starting to pick up the pace a bit with getting everything together for converting my 1500 to EFI. Current progress includes: EDIS wasted spark ignition has been bedded in and running flawlessly for a few months and many hundreds of miles now. 5/8" UNF temperature Rover temperature sensor neatly installed and will work great with MS once I have a decent calibration for it (it's currently giving temp-corrected advance) Got the 4 injector bosses sat here for installation into my spare original 1500 manifold Cleaned up the rough casting marks inside the manifold and have made a start on gasket matching it Settled on MS3 as the price difference isn't massive, and some of the extra features (like SD card logging) are worth paying for in my case. Eventually want to try sequential and traction control but for now won't be getting the MS3X board (gotta save some fun for later!). So will be ordering this at the end of the month. Got my LC-1 wideband and stainless bung, just need to work out precisely where it will fit without fouling anything and get it welded in. Also will be ordering and machining my fuel rail this month. I'm trying to work out what the best solution is for fuelling, and ideally it'd be an in-tank pump but I can't see that ever being anything but difficult without getting a brand new tank made up. Is it really necessary to enlarge the outlet on the Spitfire 1500 tank, and would it be a bad idea using the breather pipe next to it as a fuel return from the external swirl pot? If this were actually doable it would make the installation soooooo easy....
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rotoflex wrote:Bainzy: yours were on the 4.5J oval hole wheels? Correct.
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Ive had 175/70/13s on 4.5J wheels for years with no issues. Would still like to put wider Steels on, just need to find a set I can refurb for a keen price.
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Apparently someone in the TSSC fitted some to a late GT6 and was really pleased with the result, that's all I've heard. I plan on dropping £££ on a pair eventually, but my originals were rechromed and still look pretty decent.
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Apparently someone in the TSSC fitted some to a late GT6 and was really pleased with the result, that's all I've heard. I plan on dropping £££ on a pair eventually, but my originals were rechromed and still look pretty decent.
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One resource I'd like to see if anyone can help me out on this, is what should we be looking for in lambda values at different driving scenarios (ie full throttle, cruise, idle, different loads etc). I've got a wideband o2 sensor now and AFR gauge, so will soon be wanting to take the car on the road and see how the needles in there right now perform, then modify them or change them out to suit. Thing is, I'm not terribly sure which values I should be aiming for on a Triumph.
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I love the simplicity of carburetters but let's face it, old fashioned tech like contact breaker points or SU carbs are easy to work on and adjust for a reason - because they never bloody stay in tune for long! Fuel injection was around back before the post-war incarnation of Triumph even existed, used in F1 cars by the early 60's, and EFI was around in the 1970s. So it's not sacrelidge in my book to give a 78 Spitfire the fuel injection it probably would've had, if strike loving workers and naff management hadn't pissed BL's investment budget down the toilet.
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lol built so many airfix kits when I was younger I think my parents started to think I was doing it to get high off poly cement. Didn't think they'd be waterslide as it looked different to airfix decals (and didn't know you could get double sided ones. Will give it a go, cheers guys.