Bainzy
-
Posts
449 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Bainzy
-
If your loom is original, there might be a pair of wires already in it for the switch (but not the full loom). Mine never had fog lights but it has the two wires that run from the boot all the way to the fuse box, at which point the fog light loom would attach. Think one of them is blue/red and can't remember what the other is. Obviously that doesn't help connect the switch up but makes life a little easier if you have them.
-
If your loom is original, there might be a pair of wires already in it for the switch (but not the full loom). Mine never had fog lights but it has the two wires that run from the boot all the way to the fuse box, at which point the fog light loom would attach. Think one of them is blue/red and can't remember what the other is. Obviously that doesn't help connect the switch up but makes life a little easier if you have them.
-
The moment in which the cam sensor passes doesn't have to be hugely critical. Unlike the crank wheel where the tooth tells the ECU the exact position in degrees that the crank is, all the cam sensor does is tell it what phase you're in (which is one out of a possible two). The idea is to set the cam sensor to activate about 30-40 degrees before the missing tooth on the crank wheel passes the sensor, mainly just because there are a few spots where picking up the signal causes issues. Once you then have phasing correct, you can choose the time to inject in software anywhere from -360 to +360 degrees from TDC. If you manage to get this to work Nick I'd probably do the same, as like you say its a bit annoying having all that gear still bolted to the engine just for a cam sensor. It'd probably be really straightforward if you were getting a cam ground from new, you could just ask them to replace the fuel pump lobe with a trigger wheel of sorts.
-
Some good news junkuser, I think it would now work with the MS3 code: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=51591 One of the things I love about Megasquirt is how it's always in development. Really glad I went for MS3 as that's where all the energy is being put into making improvements. One thing I'm looking forward to trying with the latest updates is a progressive overrun fuelcut return, as the way it works currently can feel a bit jerky sometimes. I also want to get around to trying knock sensing, I just need to figure out where I'd be able to mount a sensor on the 1500 block.
-
Interesting, thanks for the input! Perhaps Steve's speedo setup might be the way forward then? Certainly looks an easier method of installing a sensor anyway.
-
7902 wrote:3.63 would give longer legs for the motorway of which the car is on quite a bit but am I right in guessing that in 4th OD it might be a bit sluggish? Guess it depends what state of tune the engine is in and in particular how well it breathes, cam etc. With my 1500 engine (admittedly on EFI) and 3.63 diff, I can now quite comfortably overtake people at 70-80mph in OD top by putting my foot down a little harder.
-
Thanks Paul, glad it's not just me then. I think I'll be okay sticking with them as I can live with a slightly increased right height - I think it actually looks a little better visually and there's less bump steer now (never got round to shimming the rack).
-
You don't need roller rockers to fix the tappets. With new standard rockers and a camshaft and followers in good condition, the tappet noise should be virtually inaudible. Having said that, added valve lift does make roller rockers a nice upgrade option. I'd probably have installed them myself already if they werent a) quite expensive and b) required an extra oil feed that robs the crankshaft bearings of oil ??).
-
Junkuser - the latter. It'd have to have some pretty advanced braking capability to do the former, it's just going to be spark/fuel cut. The MS3 ECU is geared to do it out of the box, all I need to do is give it a front wheel and a back wheel sensor. I'm not sure whether I need do install it on both driven wheels, though I guess it'd be a better installation if done on both sides. The code for Megasquirt traction control is only designed to take 2 wheel speed inputs at present (ie 1 front + 1 back wheel), although the software is in constant development so that could expand to 4. If I used a Racelogic system, that would have 4 inputs. Off the top of my head obviously it would work with just one driven wheel in a straight line, like a launch control, as slip would make the back wheel speed compared to the front wheel different. Not sure how it would work in cornering though as wheelspin would be uneven between the back wheels but people seem to have it working, so need to investigate a bit further as to why that actually works.
-
If the tips of the rockers are worn (the valve stems over time leave an indentation), then the feeler gauge method won't work any more. Some people use a Gunson "Clickadjust" which will compensate for this, but a better solution is to replace the rockers.
-
Great thread! What's the blue car in the garage? It's gorgeous.
-
Nice! Not sure using the propshaft flange would work for detecting wheelspin? Need to get my head round how the traction control would work. Definitely would work well for a VSS for detecting gears, mileage and fuel economy though. Looking at that photo it seems the flat about the output shaft would be wide enough to hold something sturdy-ish... Dropping the diff would be a good opportunity to not only this, but also drill out a hole and tap it for a drain plug, polybush it and finally swap my 3/4" lowering block for a 1" one. Is taking the diff apart to clean out any swarf a good idea and within the scope of DIY, or would I need to be able to set tolerances and know what I'm doing with it when putting it back together?
-
Having never dropped the differential, I'm not that familiar with it (aside from lying underneath it to top it up with oil) and have never examined the casing or looked inside. At some point in the future I need to mount a bracket on the diff to add a hall effect sensor, in order to 'sense' the four bolt heads where the output shafts meet the halfshafts. That'll give me a rear wheel speed signal for traction control, recording vehicle speed, mpg etc. Are there any locations on the casing that would be suitable for drilling, tapping and mounting a solid bracket, or would you perhaps recommend a different way of fixing said bracket?
-
On my Spitfire's front shocks, there isn't much travel before the body of the shock absorber hits the rubber bump stop. When I had the front end a bit lower down (these are Gaz with adjustable spring seat btw), they were just hitting the stops all the time and the ride became really harsh. Could these bump stops perhaps be interchanged with slightly smaller ones? Has anyone else noticed this issue? They're about an inch thick at least so reduce quite a bit of shock travel if you're setting the spring seats lower.
-
Alex wrote:Any idea what a standard flywheel weighs? Will answered that in the first response, his old 1500 one was standard. Have heard 1kg is a good amount to take off the 1500 one, I suppose it's always better to take less off than too much!
-
I'm getting my head round this but have a few more questions: 1) In the factory manual where the dots on the crank gearwheel, cam gearwheel and front engine plate line up, so you can get them aligned in relation to each other, is that also supposed to be TDC? 2) Am I correct in thinking that once I've found TDC, I can keep the crank where it is, then move the camshaft with two pushrods in place in followers 7 and 8 (for Cyl #4), and set that where the two pushrods are at equal lift? 3) Alternatively, it appears I can time the cam by finding TDC on the crank, turning the engine clockwise around 100-odd degrees and then setting the cam in a position where maximum lift occurs on inlet #1. But what would the installation figure be for a camshaft ground to TR5 spec? 105?
-
Thanks Alec. Gordon, I'm not sure the TR5 profile actually has more lift than the standard 1500 cam, if it does I don't think it'd be significantly more. Depending whose quoting the specs it's either .360" (ie same) or .378 (hardly a huge increase). Guess it depends how Newman grind them. As opposed to aftermarket grinds which tend to increase the lift to get more flow, that just gets more flow from the increased duration and has quite a big overlap.
-
Alec - no, will a PC printer job suffice? Nick - thought about that, could be wrong but I'm not sure it's worth it on a spit. From what I gather its quite necessary on a 6 if you've got a PI metering unit and fuel pump adding load to the cam, but on mine the only extra load would be from the dizzy shaft that's spinning my cam sensor. It'd be less likely to break, but it would also add quite a bit of rotational weight to the engine. And if I don't shell out £££ for a vernier one, there's less precision in it. John - thanks that sounds really useful, pic appreciated :) Marcus - standard springs as its not goin to be revving over the redline.
-
Just trying to get a list together for when I eventually get enough spare cash to do a cam and head change, of all the extra items like sundries or specialist tools I'd need. The head would be ported, etc, skimmed to around 10.5:1 and the cam is a brand new Newman one with their fancy uprated followers. So far I've got on the list: Head gasket Cam lube New timing chain Timing cover gasket (but not front oil seal, I put a new one in recently) Water pump gasket Dial gauge Can anyone think of anything else I'd need (and therefore have to price in)?
-
You might need to fashion some of your own Scott. Not sure what the piece would look like before they welded it together but there is probably something that could be used off another car if not a spitfire? Or could you cannibalise it from another hardtop that's past restoring?
-
You might need to fashion some of your own Scott. Not sure what the piece would look like before they welded it together but there is probably something that could be used off another car if not a spitfire? Or could you cannibalise it from another hardtop that's past restoring?
-
Probably not what you want to hear Scott, but you really need to learn how to do it yourself. I'd come over and teach you if I wasn't so far away - if you ever bring the car near West Yorkshire, let me know. The reason being is that you'll have to periodically adjust carbs for the life of the car, as they don't stay in tune permanently, especially if you frequently change things on the car. You should pick it up fairly quickly given how much you've already achieved with your work on the car though, carbs are just a case of 'it's easy once you know how' but fucking annoying until you figure them out!.
-
Despite your problems Wim I'm still tempted to put Revs on mine now. Send us a pic when you finally get them on and have the car outside so I can see how it looks with a full view of the car!
-
They look fantastic Wim, how come you're not going to stick with them?
-
sparky_spit wrote:The two Comma 20/50 mineral oils that are common here are Comma "Motorway" and Comma "Sonic". Comma Motorway, in the blue plastic cans, is of lesser quality and only really fit for running in or use in engines that you don't care too much about, in my opinion. Comma Sonic, in the yellow plastic can, is very good and has better additives specification (ZDDP, etc) than many more expensive oils. Marcus (on here, and a respected tinkerer and fount of knowledge) did some reading up on its spec and concluded that it was indeed better in may respects to a lot of well known mineral performance oils, and has used it for a long time in his very quick GT6). At about £16 for 5L it is quite a bit cheaper than VR1, for example. I use Comma Sonic 20w50, as you say the spec is excellent and it's also cheaper than most which is a plus. Think they're phasing out the yellow containers to silver ones, so it might be a different colour when you next buy it.