Bainzy

If I had a rolling road, calibrating SU needles to give perfect fuelling for any engine setup would be p*** easy in combination with the wideband o2. The problem is if you can't put a load on the engine, when you're in your garage you're hitting 4000rpm and you've not even got past needle position 5 on the calibrated rods in the dashpots.

Yeh looks like they cut it off and seam welded it at the factory? That's not my car by the way, it's the last one made at Gaydon Motor Heritage Museum. I could look at mine but I'm not sure it's much use to you as it's got replacement floors and replacement sills, neither of which I think are heritage items either.

I'm also using 175/70s on 4.5Js and have done for years without issues. Going to keep the same tyres when I go to 5.5J steels (swapping rims partly for aesthetics and partly to widen the track a bit).

Last Spitfire off the assembly line, 100% original bodywork.

cheers Dave, they look great. Are they on 175/70s? Bradley, glad to hear you got a decent price for them. I managed to pick up a set of 5 needing refurb for £50, which is great for me as I can keep them in the shed until well after I've done spending money on EFI and I manage to get the free cash to do them up.

Exciting stuff!! Car looks the dogs, first startup video is a must surely? :)

I want one and I don't even own a GT6! Looks ace.

Apart from Bradley's car, I don't think I've ever seen another Spitfire with these on. Just lots of GT6's. Does anyone have any photos of their own or other people's car to share sporting them?

Yes, the previous information you received about it being not needed was incorrect. It gives you extra advance on cruise conditions, which enhances fuel economy and is very much worth having.

Probably easiest to go with a 36-1 trigger wheel. You can use it just to do ignition with Ford EDIS and Megajolt, or use it for Megasquirt to do ms controlled fuel + EDIS ignition or ms controlled fuel + ms controlled ignition.

Wim, its the things that 508566 screw into. If you took the captive square fixings out, you'd be left with a square shaped hole with nothing for the screw to go into.  :-/

Judder hasn't been too bad lately (though is still there), but I've noticed now that there's a rumbling / graunching sound that occurs off load when in drive - the more power you put through the drivetrain before lifting off, the louder it will be. Sounds like it's coming from the centre of the car. The fact that it's there only when the slack isn't being taken up, leads me to think my propshaft UJ's are indeed on their way out...? By the way, is there any merit in using the heavy duty freelander UJ's in the prop? I've never heard of prop UJs snapping from too much torque...

Thanks guys. I think the reason it's done like that Paul is so that if you yanked the alarm power out, the relays would then link 30 to 87, thus activating the immobiliser. Load issues would make sense (I think?), especially since the wire used for the immob is proper tiny (the designers can't have been expecting much load to be placed upon it).

The IV/1500 Spitfire hardtop has two pairs of self tapping screws that attach the quarterlight hinges to the hardtop, each one screws into a square shaped captive thingy that presses into the hardtop. I need two of these, does anyone know where I can get some? Wouldn't have a bloody clue where to look...

Today I was working on a car that has an alarm system that activates (or in a sense, deactivates?) an immobiliser when the alarm is triggered: It currently cuts an ignition coil using a 40A automotive relay, and is wired as above. I tried to then get another relay in a different location to intercept the fuel pump feed, and couldn't get it to work without disturbing the operation of the other one. Here's the method I tried that didn't work: It seemed to switch the operation of the existing one, which I didn't want to do. What's the best way around this? I have some diodes I could use if need be.

Ok will probably miss some things but here's what I think the list is so far for my Injection: MS3 ECU with MS3X expansion card MS3 wiring loom MS3X wiring loom Jimstim and JimstimX (these were good to bring back my memory of how to solder PCBs properly!) A few 40A automotive relays (ie fuel pump) Might need to add more blade fuse capacity by getting a bigger fuse box (currently have eight) 4 x injector 2-pin JT connectors (you can get less bulky ones for injectors as space there can be tight) 2 x 2-pin JT connector for PWM Idle valve and IAT sensor 1 x TPS sensor connector (can't remember what type as TB is with Tim, think its 3-pin JT?) Shedloads of JT terminals I got a while ago off ebay 1 x Bosch PWM Idle valve from a Volvo part #0 280 140 516 Hose reducers to fit PWM idle hose to TB as they're different diameters loads of rubber hose 15mm chrome plated copper pipe to replace heater through-pipe original Spitfire manifold had. Will get 50cm and cut to fit. T piece with 15mm ends to connect hoses on rear end of aformentioned pipe 3.5mm black cotton braided vacuum hose (don't know how much i need yet, 2m?) as I don't like the look of silicone hose 1 x FTP Systems aluminium inlet manifold / plenum 1 x 48mm throttle body from a Rover 25 (fully opening version), TPS built in 1 x metre+ of 3 inch diameter air ducting 1 x universal K&N filter to attach to the above 2 x big jubilee clips for the above 2 1 x fuel tap with 8mm tails 1 x fuel filter (chrome/glass type with 8mm tails) 1 x Webcon WFP502 lifter fuel pump, runs at 2.5-4.5psi and feeds the high pressure pump / swirl pot. This is a very quiet electric pump. 1 x Mini exhaust mounting bobbin to secure above pump to inner rear wing 1 x Webcon WFP600 high pressure pump, built into its own swirl pot. has 8mm hose tails so... 2m of 8mm SAEJ30 R9 7.6mm fuel injection rubber hose 8 metres (excessive?) plastic nylon tubing for running fuel lines under the car. 8mm OD 4 x 8mm to 6mm barbed adapters for joining nylon hose to boot and engine bay fuel lines. Really unsure about these as they seem to leave me with a 4.5mm restriction 2m AN-6 / 8mm Teflon fuel injection hose with stainless steel overbraid 12" x AN-6  fuel rail (the ones Ross Machine Racing make) drilled with a 17/32" drill bit for the injector to sit in and around 8-9mm bit for the other hole 2 x 9/16 UNF to AN-6 adapters for fuel rail 1 x 9/16 UNF tap for fuel rail 1 x AN-6 Teflon straight fitting for fuel rail 1 x AN-6 Teflon 180 degree fitting for fuel rail 1 x Webcon WFR530 billet fuel regulator, 3 bar 1 x bicycle cable for throttle cable? 1 x Some way of getting a fuel tank vent as my locking cap doesnt seem to be vented Loads of fuel hose clips 1 x spare Lucas distributor I've stripped down and removed the springs from. Just need the mechanical advance tacked up and... 1 x hall effect sensor, to provide a cam signal for sequential injection. Honeywell sensors, cost about �20. 4 x Bosch injectors from a Rover 216, # 0 280 150 749. These give enough flow at 3 bar for 120bhp at the flywheel. cheers mate, you've just made me realise how much money I needlessly throw at this car  ;D

I've used a combination of blue and red Polybush on the Spitfire (red on the ARB + rear tie rods) and they are bloody excellent. Also just tried an orange Flo-Flex one on the steering rack and that gave a big improvement to the steering too, I'd say that felt around the same hardness as the blue Polybush. Red Polybush are very hard to install!

Get an alloy 48mm Rover throttle body, they're really nicely suited and good quality (made by Dellorto). Mine was �12.95 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-25-1-6-throttle-control-body-/270977805947?clk_rvr_id=370055362432&mfe=sidebar For Ignition I used: 1 Megajolt lite Jr v4 Spitfire pulley with trigger wheel and bracket, off someone elses install, got it on ebay Ford EDIS crank sensor and connector Fiesta coilpack New coilpack connector (from trigger wheels) Coil pack bracket made from 2mm thick aluminium. Cut out on band saw and bent with vice and pliers, holes drilled for 4 mounting screws/nuts. Lots of automotive wire inc 2 core shielded Lots of that split conduit stuff instead of electrical tape Classic Mini temperature sensor (from MPI cars), search for part #s GTR185 / ADU7161 / EAC3927 - it's a 5/8UNF thread and screws right into the water pump housing Stanpart thermostat housing to move your old temp gauge sender to if you want to keep the temp gauge working HT Lead set from an ebay seller with a long length of 8mm silicone HT lead, rubber boots and wierd locking clip connectors for 1st gen Ford coilpacks HT lead spacers from ebay Lots of automotive wire, crimp terminals and blade fuses Vacuum takeoff, inserted into inlet manifold brake servo blanking bolt Tap for vacuum takeoff 4mm silicone vacuum hose 27mm core plug to blank off distributor brains frazzled tonight so will post the injection stuff I think I'll be needing (and what I have so far) when I get chance tomorrow

They look great, bet you're well excited Anthony  8)

Starting to think it might be a lean spike - I hadn't been watching the AFR gauge when it was happening, so after no change in performance tonight, I pulled the choke out a bit once hot and watched the gauge to make sure it was rich - couldn't get it to reoccur...

What are the symptoms of these starting to go? Got a very slight judder that's just developed when you take up drive (it only appears when taking up drive in 1st, very briefly at around halfway up the clutch travel, and in drive at heavy load - ie trying to pull in OD top at low revs). Trying to eliminate all possible sources, have checked the diff and it's full of oil, doesn't seem to be whining any more than usual. Going to inspect the engine mounts before I set off today, and have tightened up one of the exhaust hanging brackets under the diff that was a bit loose.

I think you'll just need a gmail or youtube account, once you're signed in go to this page or just click subscribe above one of the videos. Then whenever you visit youtube.com, any new videos will appear on the homepage for you so you won't have to go looking for them. cheers Scott! :)

Thanks Tim! I like that idea Shaun, I'd be happy to do some how to videos, although the only thing that'd stop me is that I'm sure there are people out there who could do most jobs better and faster than I could...!

Decided to make a Youtube channel recently, and after testing it out by uploading some videos of Megajolt running in my Spitfire, I took the first proper video today at Stafford. Tim was kind enough to spend a couple of minutes talking about his EFI GT6, and managed to cram loads of information in! So I'm aiming to just keep uploading videos like this as a bit of a resource for us to have on Triumphs and other classics that you can just sit and watch almost like a TV channel. Here's Tim's GT6: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PelggkYR51M&feature=plcp My car running on Megajolt (and the old noisy rockers!): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJmij1_5m3Y&feature=context-chv Tach stability with Megajolt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK-pBqfRx4w&feature=plcp If you guys want to subscribe that'd be ace but I'll let you know on here as well when I post interesting Triumph ones up.  :)

Excellent question Nick, I get the impression everyone else on the internet was born with this information as I can't find a website anywhere that explains it well.