Bainzy
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Everything posted by Bainzy
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Hi Sam, did you have any success with these?
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Just browsing some old threads. I eventually figured out what these are, they are a standard part on many BL cars called a 'spire nut'. FC2803 is the one - I think, although there seem to be different sizes for bigger screws (FC2804, FC2805...). Just waiting till suppliers get them in stock again to find out for sure.
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Lots of photos of mine in this thread Wim. Sorry , link no longer available The brackets are tight but do more or less fit.
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Spitfire Mk4/1500 door glass - 2kg per window (so 4kg a pair). Spitfire 1500 USA door with side impact bar - bare shell with only hinges - 11kg
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I like bondarust - very good spec and easy to apply. Epoxy mastic (rustbusters) is also excellent, it can be used as a topcoat and seems extremely tough, the only downside is it has to be mixed from two parts so can be tricky to mix the correct amount for the job.
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I don't really buy that argument - if Newton Commercial acquired the original tooling then they should be able to mould carpet of the same pile quality that Triumph used to. Perhaps that type of carpet takes more initiative to source nowadays or costs more but what's the point in selling a product that fixes one problem by causing another? I suspect it's more due to rationalisation or finding cheap sources of modern mouldable carpet than genuinely not being able to create/obtain mouldable carpet with a quality pile.
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+1, they are a thin (almost nonexistent) pile and are more or less like the floor covering on our 2008 Fiesta. The samples I've got look more like kitchen scouring pads than carpet. It's a tough choice between unoriginal looking carpet with a good fit, versus luxurious carpet with varying degrees of an imperfect fit.
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Probably not Roger, but I suppose it depends how liberally it's applied. The contact area between the two surfaces isn't large, so provided the solder completely covers this, any excess flux wouldn't be spoiling the join. It might be bad for the rest of the ring but even then, I can't see it destroying the fitting, just make sure you only apply it where you want the solder to be. I used a non acid, non toxic flux by LA-CO.
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Just a tip for anyone with unimpressive or intermittent lights, my Dad's TR6 was due an MOT but the indicators were stuck on when activating the right side. The problem turned out to be a bad bulb holder, but the new ones are the same design and inevitably would have corroded again. The ground connection is made up of a tang that touches the bulb, and a metal ring inside the bulb holder. These two pieces of metal corrode and stop touching, but you can't clean it off easily because the corrosion is under the metal ring. You can however remove the ring, so my solution was to coat both mating surfaces with flux after cleaning them, and I soldered the connection after placing them back. The flux helps the solder get sucked right between the join, and hey presto - working light bulb again.
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I saw their stand at the first TRR Harrogate International, they had an engine demo and there was also an owner there who had the conversion done on his own car. I think he was pleased with it, though was having low speed running issues - but he suspected this was because he had the flywheel lightened, not the EFI. Can't remember his name but he had put a lot of effort into his car's engine bay, making bespoke brackets for things and it looked a really neat job. The manifold they make is a really neat job, with conical shaped inlet runners, though from what I remember it was also a lot of money.
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Used special tyre paint, ended up with 5 coats to get a good, reliable finish. Any less and it browns too quickly, and even with 5 it will still go brown eventually so will need touching up every so often. Not sure I'd bother again but it looked very race-y.
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They're much more efficient than a heater and if done right, are difficult to detect and can add value to the car. In winter the heater will still be blowing cold air by the time they are roasting. I think my alternator was 45 or 55A when I first put them in and I had no trouble. I fitted some into my Dads TR6 and that still has the original alternator (whatever a 72 car came with, probably feeble) and it doesn't trouble the car. I'm trying at the moment to fit them to my W124 Merc but want to use an original Merc loom for them, just need to find a cheap second hand loom.
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Ouch. If you're feeling ambitious Roy you could try adapt one of those Volvo overdrives with an even lower ratio. Now thats a project I'd like to see!
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Original seats look great and should be pretty good with new foam. Make sure you keep them safe if you do decide to change them!
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Laurence, any chance you could share a picture or part number of the water/oil cooler? I'm wanting to fit one of those as they have the added bonus of warming the engine up faster.
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I have to agree with Doug. I ordered some samples of the moulded from Newton and was really disappointed so won't be buying a moulded set. If you want it to look and feel like it left the factory, I'm not sure the moulded sets are the best option. I don't really see the point of buying a well fitting carpet if it looks like office carpet. It's difficult as I like to support companies investing in parts for our cars but the pile of the moulded carpet they use is so poor and doesn't fit with the character of the car. Having said that, some people think MX-5 seats look good ( ??)) so I'm sure they will have fans. If they could sort this out and find something thats mouldable with a proper cut or loop pile, instead of flat scouring pad pile, I'd buy one of their sets instantly and pay good money for it. Unfortunately it looks like I'll be buying a Coverdale 80/20 wool/nylon carpet instead, as reportedly the fit of those is good and the samples they sent had an excellent pile.
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Correct. They won't fit on a UK Spitfire because the battery tray supports are in the way. According to an anectodal report from a US Spitfire owner, they work very well in a head on collision. If you've ever seen the crash test videos, you'll see that the bonnet will flip upwards and head towards the windscreen frame upon frontal impact.
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Thanks for all the replies! Looks like brazing is the way to go then. That's very kind of you Alec, I'm in Yorkshire so a bit far from Shropshire, but are you visiting any shows in the near future such as the NEC classic car show or Stoneleigh in Feb? There's no rush for me to do it as the car will be off the road for a while now. It seems brazing is pretty handy. I may need to get hold of some oxy/acetylene kit eventually as I need to also braze some other joints on the car such as the sill to rear wing and the windscreen frame gutters (replacing both)....
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I have a spare engine sump i want to first baffle, then also add a temperature sensor boss for some electronic measurements. I don´t want to use one of those sump plug adapters, I´d rather keep this separate to the magnetic drain plug. I have noticed (after removing the paint) that the original boss for the sump plug is brazed, would it be better to do this for the temp sensor boss as well? Is the sump sheet metal too thin to weld?
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2.8mm diameter is not a huge increase over the port size, I would go with that. I think you'd only really see a torque benefit if you used tapered runners. Length is important, try make the runners as long as possible if torque is what you're after. If you want to increase air speed and top end power, use shorter ones.
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It was rather convenient for me as it's the closest bit of free road I could find near my house, and having two lanes means it's easier to brake hard without annoying someone behind you as you can just move lanes. When you've just fitted new discs and pads, and your house is up on a hill with no flat road in sight, even the 5 minutes it takes sliding down over the canal through Crossflats using just the handbrake and engine compression to slow it down is pretty hairy!!
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I used both shims and them sticky pads, then spent two weeks figuring out why my pedal had to be pumped twice to do anything! The pistons were just squishing the sticky pads against the sharp edges on the shims, and when i took the sticky pads off they were all distorted and mangled. Just use the shims and a smear of red brake grease. They will still squeal for a bit of time, but it takes a while for everything to become centralised and evenly applied. Regarding the bedding, what you derived from that is spot on. When you're doing each application, bury your foot hard until you get to 30mph. Took me quite a few more times than 6 or 7 to get them bedded in though, on the bypass between Bingley and Keighley.
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Anything that doesn't impact visually or change the driving feel significantly, I cannot imagine would devalue it at all, some things may even increase it (I personally would pay slightly more for a MK1 GT6 with syncro on first). Hard to say really without naming the modifications in particular.
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Yes, definitely.
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Wouldn't want a Spitfire without it. The only problems I've had with mine in 5 years ownership as a daily driver were from the dodgy fuse box connection, not the overdrive, so I'm not sure why it has a bad reliability reputation.