Bainzy
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Everything posted by Bainzy
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Had to adjust it once because a screw came out, second time I used threadlock and it hasn't fallen out since. They're not absolutely perfect, but I know they could be. The passenger door adjustment seems to have slipped a bit, I just can't be bothered fixing it. Car is on the road most days and I'm far too busy with other things in life to spend messing with it at the moment. The drivers door hasn't been touched since the day I installed it and has never given me problems. I think that's because on that side, instead of using the supplied fixings, I used a strip of aluminium - the one you can see in the photos on my site. The passenger door mechanism slips gradually over time using the fixings in the box (like yours), because the force of the actuator is so strong that it shakes it, and having elongated holes instead of small, precise holes, allows that movement to happen. Have you tested the actuator fully Wim? If not you might be disappointed with the location you have it in now, I can't see it having enough throw at that 45 degree angle and even if it does, it's putting unnecessary strain on the actuator.
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Wim, on mine I just wrapped them in black electrical tape and fed them between the door card and door assembly. It's pretty hard to spot them when the door is open, impossible when the door is shut. You might find the motor works better if it's at a more horizontal angle - not following the angle of the connecting rods. Nick's location is a lot better as there's less wasted energy by the motors, but unfortunately us Spitfire owners can't put them there as our door glass fouls that area. Not so on a GT6 as it has quarterlights above. I reckon if you put GT6 doors on you could get both central locking AND electric windows working fairly reliably.
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Marcus, what's the story with those silver clad hoses at the back of the engine near the heater valve, going to the bulkhead?
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I got in touch with Gareth Livesley who'd fixed it on his GT6, him and his Dad gently heated it in a straight part of the pipe just before it splits into a Y and bent it to allow it to come higher up. Never got round to trying it myself though. In the end I just got a single large bore exhaust, which doesn't quite make the car sound like an F1 car anymore but has a nice character of its own. In two minds really as to whether to eventually sell the twin exhaust or put it back on and try this fix, and right now I've got lots of other improvements to the car that I'm more bothered about so it's just sat in the shed.
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Duct tape? Seems to work for everything else on our cars...
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Id really like to change my later Spitfire black painted door handles to chrome ones, but to buy a new pair costs a bonkers price of £150 and the second hand ones you see on ebay are always quite pitted - I wouldn't expect perfect but all the ones I've seen are in ghastly condition. What are the differences between the chrome and black ones - is it just literally that one is chromed and one is painted, or are the materials different in any way to enable chroming on the former? Could you disassemble a black painted one and have it chrome plated?
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796 wrote:I put a light in my glove box bit, seems a more practicle thing, as I noo can find stuff int dark So why not wire a light in yours too,!! M Spitfire 1500 comes with a map light there as standard ;D
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My car starts first turn every time with the Lucas starter. I guess starting performance might improve with a high torque one but they still don't really compensate for ignition or fuelling problems. My Dad's TR6 has a high torque starter and if something's up with the ignition it will still struggle to start.
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Look fantastic, nice job Wim. Sorry I missed your question earlier, for the old ones I just unscrewed the bulbs as I think they look better without the original ones lighting as well. By the way is it just me or are the wires coming out of the LED strips way too delicate? I've already broken 2 :(
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Just run a wire joining the two switches together! http://triumphspitfire.rickbaines.com/footwell-lights/
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This would make for a great product. New hinge plates with nuts already tacked on.
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Massive respect Bruce, this looks like a huge undertaking. That photo of the rear heelboard / radius arm bracket reminds me of something:
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markcro wrote:Cheers guys. Maybe I'll stick with the 155s for the moment. Where did you buy the 5.5j wheels? Posted a wanted ad and got a call from a chap in Worksop who had some in his shed. The ad was actually for 5Js so really lucked out!
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Thanks! Goodyear Duragrip, 175/70/13 all round
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Well here's what I've ended up with. Sat high at the back in this picture as it had just been jacked up and hadn't settled yet: No interference issues, but then my wheel arch lips at the front are very very slightly rolled (had to do this when using the 4.5J rims). Still doubt there'd be problems even if they weren't though. Car has 1" lower 330lb springs at front and 3/4" lowering block at back with new spring. Handling wise the car feels a lot more solid, and visually looks a lot better in my opinion having wheels that fill the arches properly. Makes the car look less girly and more like a sports car.
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I was running 175/70s on 4.5J steels, and have just swapped the tyres over onto 5.5J steels. Definitely a noticeable difference, the car feels more solid now and really planted on the road - not to mention it looks a lot better visually. It still handled very well with the narrower rims though.
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"Is it an MG?"
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;D
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Nope the latest Megajolt also has correction, +/- 5 degrees.
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christ almighty
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If you remind me in advance can bring one down next time I'm round Tim? Still got my original one knocking about in the garage.
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Don't remember seeing rubber anywhere on my 1500 crank pulley? I bought a spare one off ebay that someone had welded a trigger wheel to. Whatever you do, it needs to be rugged.
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With ABT needles I'm not surprised it's flat, they're nowhere near rich enough. I'd go with one of those two needles, and also change the springs in the carb dashpots for heavier, yellow ones. For me, I needed something even richer with K&N's and 4>2>1, but then I've got a single large bore exhaust, Megajolt and an 88c thermostat as well.
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thebrookster wrote:Sure, I can modify needles with a bit of care and attention, as no doubt can several others on here, but to be able to complete two needles identically, along with doing the initial settings, in one day is in my book definitely skill!! It's actually fairly easy in practice. You won't get them bang on the same, but with a micrometer it's easy to see where you're taking material off. No point making them perfect to .000000001" because the inlet manifolds and carbs people are using are unlikely to have airflow perfectly the same for each cylinder anyway. Everyone says you'll probably ruin the first needles, I didn't and unless you're impatient or using too coarse sandpaper you shouldn't do. The only big risk of wrecking needles is when you start guessing which needle stations to file - if you're using an oxygen sensor then you shouldn't end up guessing. Although you will need a rolling road for the higher range of needle stations (in practice 30mph + or half throttle +), reprofiling needles in your garage with a wideband makes a huuuuge difference in how the car will drive at low speeds, through first and second gear etc.
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piman wrote:Hello Bainzy, David Vizard's poor man's dynamometer was to jack up the back of the car and put it securely on stands. Use the car's brakes to load the engine. Takes some time as you need to let them cool down from time to time. I must say I haven't tried it but it's a thought? I've actually tried it, it's hell on your brake shoes and seems to wear them down really quickly (exacerbated by lack of cooling airflow?). Plus it still only gets you a few needle stations higher leaving the mid and upper ranges still untuned.