Bainzy
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Everything posted by Bainzy
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Are the brackets that bolt underneath the bulkhead, to hold the clutch and brake pedals in place, identical other than the brake light switch attachment? I was thinking about putting a clutch switch into the car to tell the ECU when the clutch is depressed and it'd be nice if I could just track down a brake pedal bracket and use that.
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Looks like you're doing great Louis, keep up the good work!
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Also just realised it's missing a pivot pin bush - the top one is missing. That can't have helped matters, can it?
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Thanks Richard, will check those. Would gladly consider one if I could find someone willing to sell me one. :-/
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Now that I have the gearbox out of the car to renew the clutch release bearing, I'd like to clean it up a bit and do any maintenance work I can. First order of business after a degrease will be to change the overdrive filter. Other than this, is there any sort of inspection I can do without really taking it apart? Also, how fucking heavy is the overdrive unit!!! The cast iron bellhousing seems pretty light compared to the OD!
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Reckon this may have been the problem? http://youtu.be/6zGTYJpKBJU it's a bit rattley!
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Had the gearbox tunnel out, looks like the pivot pin is in place. Bled some of the clutch fluid, although it's silicone it was a bit mucky! Not bad though considering it's probably not been bled or drained since 2003. I think the best thing to do is to take the bellhousing and gearbox out, and get to work replacing the release bearing. Then refill with fresh fluid and see where I am with it. Even if that's not the problem it should give me some experience working on the clutch. Going to be a pain in the arse lifting it all out, but until someone offers me an alloy bellhousing for sale I guess I'm stuck with this heavy cast iron lump... :-/
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Looks fab Nick! For me, it'd be original manifolds all the way if I had a 6 pot. They look the business, the internal trumpets noticeably improve performance yet are hard to do on a custom manifold, and injector angle doesn't really make that much difference off idle anyway, especially if you're using 4 hole injectors.
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Definitely not worn UJ', they're both relatively new and working well. 932 wrote:as for the vibration, is it the engine running rough or could it be engine/gearbox mountings? rich It's smooth as silk at any point other than idle, at which point it doesn't sound rough, but the gearstick and bodywork seem to shake a lot more than normal. Could be chasing 2 issues in that respect though (eg. worn mounts as you say as well). Will try bleeding it first then check those suggestions Pete and Chris. I'm sure I checked endfloat recently but will check again. Am I right in thinking I can bleed air out of it by taking the clutch pedal spring off, then wedging something on the pedal keeping it depressed, and leaving it like that with the master cylinder cap off overnight? Thus causing air to rise to the top of the system?
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I've never touched the clutch system in the 4 1/2 years I've had the Spitfire (no fluid changes as it's silicone), but it's finally started to give me problems. It's been juddering when taking up drive now and again, usually when setting off when cold, but didn't always do it and the problem went away for a bit. Now that I've been using the car every day for work again, the problems have got a bit worse. The biting point is lower, and I've just noticed that it doesn't actually seem to be fully disengaging. If you put the car in reverse, drive it backwards a bit, depress the clutch, put it in neutral, bring the clutch up, press the clutch down again, and start to move the gear lever into first, it jumps a bit just before the gear slots in. Which suggests to me that it's already engaging with first gear before I've brought the clutch back up again. The idle is a bit juddery as well, and the car is vibrating more than usual when left idling. I've checked the pedal for lost movement looking from under the dash and unfortunately it's not that - as soon as the pedal is pressed it starts to activate the master cylinder. Firstly, does anyone know what the cause of this is likely to be, and secondly, is it doing any damage? Would bleeding the clutch potentially solve it?
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A steel bridge also provides strength to the engine block, particularly in the 6 cylinder block which is longer than the 4, so that's an added extra to preventing stripping the threads. It's quite a common modification for those tuning the 6 cylinder, especially on overbores, to replace the alloy parts with a kit of steel pieces (bridging piece, rear oil seal and main caps) to provide torsional strength to the engine block. Don't know how beneficial that would be to the 4 cylinder blocks, but given that the bottom end weakness on the 4cyl is caused by oil film breakdown as a byproduct of crankshaft flexibility, I suppose every little thing that makes the block more stable would be of benefit.
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Hi Alan, how did these turn out?
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I would keep the original seats somewhere if you can, as MX5 ones would devalue the car should you ever decide to sell it.
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Only downside I can see to using door seals is that it leaves a gap that was previously covered at the end of the wheel arch. That might cause more water to be thrown at the top of the sill / a post and end up running down the a post underneath the door.
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6797 wrote:Actually - I dunno at all - I notice you are looking for the ones on the "underside" not the ones that support the gear stick. Correct - should've made that clearer in the post! I think they were probably for attaching the unit to the chassis of other cars they were used on or something?
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Does anyone know what the thread is in this hole, or have one on a bench they can test some bolts in for me? There's a pair of these holes at the back of the overdrive unit that would be perfect for attaching a bracket to for a vehicle speed sensor. I've tried a few bolts I have lying around but nothing seemed to fit properly.
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Just a pair of pieces of thin plastic that go over the door cappings, held in place by the door card. Park lane classics do a kit to cover them in vinyl, which has to be glued in place but looks the dogs bollocks once done.
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This one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180956029368?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3Fclk_rvr_id%3D562808970927%26mfe%3Dsearch%26_nkw%3D180956029368%26_rdc%3D1
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On mine it was a stud that output 12v, in addition to the hole for the rectangular plastic plug that the original triumph loom had to plug into the alternator with. Both work at the same time so I just used the stud to run the extra wire from, but also kept the plug in as well. Don't know if all alternators have it but mine did.
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When I upgraded to a 75A alternator after killing my old one with heated seats, cd player + sub amp, electronic fuel injection, etc... I just ran another thick brown wire in parallel with a ring terminal on each end. One on the alternator's spare B+ post, the other to the solenoid. Didn't have to touch the original wiring loom at all. Took 5 minutes, a few quid and stopped the risk of setting my car on fire. Probably worth doing!
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Nick_Jones wrote:Not sure about MJL, but on the more advanced versions of Megasquirt you can also use coolant temperature and inlet air temperature to tweak timing settings (eg I have slightly retarded ignition when inlet air temperatures are high to reduce pinking) but this isn't really necessary - just allows you to push a bit closer to the edge for ideal conditions without running into problems when conditions are much worse. You can only have one extra input on Megajolt (so you'd have to choose between coolant temp or inlet temp advance/retard), and loooads of extra inputs on the latest Megasquirt (probably more than you'd ever use even if you were preparing the engine in a lab).
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My Dad used to have a set of Lucas Square 8 lights on the front of his Mk4 Spitfire: Pic was taken August 25th, 1978. He says they were really bright and effective. Looks like they were attached to the lower overrider bolt looking at that photo, probably the most aesthetically pleasing place to put them.
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My Dad used to have a set of Lucas Square 8 lights on the front of his Mk4 Spitfire: Pic was taken August 25th, 1978. He says they were really bright and effective. Looks like they were attached to the lower overrider bolt looking at that photo, probably the most aesthetically pleasing place to put them.
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You could always get the tach converted, this guy near us in keighley did a great job on my Dads TR6 mechanical tach when he got a 123 ignition: http://www.jdo1.com
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Isn't it supposed to be a lip seal, not a tube section? That's what mine has anyway.