rotoflex

I think a non-acid battery is a better choice - goodbye to battery box rust.

I've been thinking for a while that it would be nice to have them in heavy-duty plastic, like that which now lines wheel wells of cars.  Easy to wash, no rattles, won't deteriorate when wet.  I've been sort of stuck as to what to scavenge the plastic from.

I've been thinking for a while that it would be nice to have them in heavy-duty plastic, like that which now lines wheel wells of cars.  Easy to wash, no rattles, won't deteriorate when wet.  I've been sort of stuck as to what to scavenge the plastic from.

Spark plug removal & replacement around the distributor is made tolerable with a wobble-type socket extension on the socket.

Driver side door mirrors were fitted by the factory as standard for US cars to satisfy federal regulations. You might look at US versions of your car to get an idea of the factory mounting location.

Driver side door mirrors were fitted by the factory as standard for US cars to satisfy federal regulations. You might look at US versions of your car to get an idea of the factory mounting location.

Quote: I remember using that spiral wiring wrap on lots of projects.  When the time comes that you must get in there again, I do not envy you all the uncurling & wrestling with that python skeleton! The modern split corrugated auto loom shell is quite an improvement!  I've noticed that in factory applications, they usually close the ends to the wires with some friction tape or similar. If you ever wish to go back to an OEM look, I think it was either junkuser or partsaver who tipped me off as to the original wire wrap tape width, which is available.  It's not electrical tape, but less-sticky vinyl.  

What are the laws over there?  Does it need more complete labeling? Would the label need to be something like: Quote:Hand built by JohnD Contains:  Sweat, profanity, blood, fingernails, human flesh.  May contain traces of nuts.

What is the availability of period aftermarket seats?

I think a crank scraper & LSD are above it on my list.

That's bright!

I agree that shopping among the moulded sets is the only way! There are bulgy shapes that never sit right otherwise:  wheel humps, transmission cover, etc. I almost went insane trying to get the flat pieces from a bargain set to conform to the wheel humps, & in the end left the originals.

7235 wrote:hi nang, i need to go electric tach because the lucas distributor doesnt have a mechanical tach offtake. The Lucas 22D6 has/had a mechanical tachometer connection. One has been on my car since it was bought from the first owner in about 1975, & may have come that way from the factory, or put on by the BL service department. It has been mentioned that they came standard on the Vitesse, so it should be possible to find one if that's what you want.

The Pertronix unit in my Lucas w/tacho drive has been great.

Actually the Strombergs are less complicated than the SU's. I prefer the Strombergs, and have clear memories of deciding that long ago when fiddling with SU's on a car while the SU float bowl and pipes were squirming and an extra hand would have been nice to have. We were mainly discussing the variations, mostly in the chokes.   SU's had even greater weirdness:  the SU's on my XK140 were choked via an SU item called a "starting carburettor" - an actual additional, vestigial carburettor!

What memories that brings back, of a 25 mile walk started at exactly midnight on a February night. A mile, hmph.

Do not shrink from offering the correct information! It has been a long time since I handled a CD, & may be confusing it with an SU or just dredging up wreckage!

Please don't be so tactful when I bollix things up, Mal!  Thanks for noting the error! The CD choke functions by moving the piston which holds the needle up & down.

I agree with junkuser. CD - adjusters moving jets for enrichment on bottom, choke via moving whole jet shebangs up & down.  Can be identified from above on twin carb setups by having 2 interconnecting rods between carbs:  one rod connecting the jet moving things, one rod connecting throttle spindles.  Articulations/connectors on the rods are plastic u-joints. CDS - adjuster moving jets for enrichment on bottom, choke via cable to small assembly called the "starter box" on side.  One rod connecting twin carbs: between the throttle spindles. CDSE - enrichment adjusted by moving needles with a special tool which is inserted into the dashpots after the filler cap/damper rod is removed.  Either a screwed or blank plug is present in the hole on the bottom of the float bowls, where the previous models' jet adjuster assemblies were located.  Choke via cable to small assembly called "starter box" on side.  One rod connecting twin carbs: between the throttle spindles.  Articulations/connectors on this rod are folded spring steel things.  Also, the CDSE had other small assemblies attached for emissions control - the throttle bypass valve, & a bimetallic strip housing. A variation for US CDSE and the last home market CDSE's is that the "starter boxes" had independent choke cables.  Earliest home market CDSE's apparently had one cable to a starter box on one carb, & enrichment of the other carb was via a piece of small tubing running between the carbs. Home market GT6 Mk2 got the CDS, the last of the contemporaneous US GT6+ got the CDSE. GT6 (Mk1) got the CD in all markets, the last home market (and all US) GT6 M3 got the CDSE. Excluding emissions issues, all carbs will yield similar performance, with appropriate needles installed. Each type had its strengths & weaknesses. The adjustable jets on the CDS are nice, but the choke mechanism is more complicated.  Also, the plastic articulations on the interconnecting rods deteriorate & break. The "starter box" assemblies on the CDS & CDSE are nice simplifications for an operation which only needs to be coarse & temporary.  However, it functions by two cast aluminum pieces sliding over each other, which can become worn over years of operation, resulting in a choke that is never completely "off". The additional assemblies of the CDSE can be sort of vexing additional stuff at the time of a carb rebuild, but aren't a huge consideration.  They can be bypassed/made inoperative. If you go on a scavenger hunt to assemble a set from things found on ebay, you'll need to be familiar with the variations to know what to look for.  They can look similar.  Also, used components may be worn, or even non-matching collections of parts (like what I got when I bought an apparently acceptable set from ebay). My last set was from Andrew Turner.  He recommended & supplied a refurbished home market-type CDSE set, which was pretty appropriate for my MK3. So however you go about it, I would recommend checking with Andrew Turner if you want a reliable set.

Good selection of heater to put in the car for the operation!  An open filament resistance heater or quartz heater could be a fire hazard.

It seems like you'd be able to check the thrust washer wear/absence by grabbing the front crankshaft pulley & pushing/pulling in & out of the block.  There was approximately 1/4" of movement as the result of the thrust washers falling out.

MK3 GT6 had black, rather matte-finished vinyl glued to them

You can tell something's not right:  the steering wheel's on the wrong side.  Maybe it got all twisted in an accident.

A triumph luggage rack is sort of like a compass. No matter which way you turn it, it always is upside down.

3811 wrote:Hi I already have 2 205's on my spit Car looks good!  I like the darker hardtop with the body color. And I always like to see a Spitfire with a luggage rack, even if removable!