rotoflex
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Everything posted by rotoflex
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That's cool! It looks like you've got a particle collider in the back of your car, or a still or something.
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Hi Wimpy: Keeping nice paint underneath the master cylinders will be something that you'll be trying to do as long as you own the car. The worn hole in the clutch pedal is also typical, but only needs to be done every 15 years or so. It can be welded up, then drilled out again.
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This is an operation that is done more often than you'd think, but it's not a big deal. I'd say: If it's your first one, replace. You keep the old one, dismantle it, clean it up, & put it in a box. The next time it goes, you rebuild the old one that was taken out, then swap it back in, keeping the other as before. It goes a little easier & faster, & keeps the car from being stationary as long. You don't get a sudden surprise like discovering that the cylinder is badly scored, or a piece is missing, etc., that will hold you up longer.
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Determine if the OD inhibitor swithch is functional or even present. The J type OD was not originally installed on GT6's, so the one on there now was installed by a previous owner, who may or may not have installed the inhibitor switch. Sitting in the car with the door closed, turn the ignition switch on without starting the car, turn on the OD switch, engage the handbrake, & engage the clutch. Move the gear lever to 2nd then 3rd gear, & you should hear the OD solenoid clack as it is energized going into 3rd. Move the gear lever from 4th back to 1st & you should hear the solenoid thump as it is de-engergized. It should also clack going from 1st or 2nd going into 4th.
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Moved by moderator to Spitfire section for better visibility.
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Nicely written up!
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I think I remember seeing some company selling replacement steering racks that differed in appearance from the original types but were claimed to be functionally the same.
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I don't know if your horns were original, so don't worry about new horns. I think even for Spitfire the original horns were made by either Lucas or Clear Hooter.
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Bill Hooper, GT6: 37 years That can't be right, that would make me middle-aged or something
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A bonnet prop that is still body color! That's a semi-rarity!
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External, goes between the block & fuel pump face.
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Oh, the Jaguar Mk2, what a wonderful car! Forgive the wandering eye; I can't help it.
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You don't have to swap out the diff when you do the trans & propshaft. You may wish to save that shopping trip & wrestling match for later. Don't forget you will also need OD wiring haness, relay, extra inhibitor switch on trans, & OD activation switch.
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a piece of Scotchbrite pad is good for polishing up metal contacts. Difficult to clean is the metal conact inside a bullet connector. I usually use a small, noarrow wire brush on the Dremel tool - it's a wire brush that just barely fits into the connector.
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Which car do you have?
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Those are nice, Louis. They're better that hacking out a DIN-size hole in an original plate.
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That's a formidable-looking motor!
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OH THAT WOULD BE A GREAT IDEA. Or if it made sounds of changing pitch. Squinting at the Colortune thing when I use it makes me wish I had eyes on stalks like a snail.
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You can just paste the text from the Direct box so people can go to the full size photo: http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/739pete/Spitfire/IMG_0272_zps646dcf13.jpg And here's what magically happens when you copy & paste the text in the IMG box: Usually, even if a head gasket goes, you can just sponge out the water from the block, clean the block surface up very, very well, & if you're sure about the cylinder head flatness, just put the head back on with a new gasket. As John said, if it's at the machine shop already, they can accurately ensure that the head's flat. Damage to the top of the block is rare. This doesn't seem like anything to worry over. Keep all gasket debris, rust, & sludge chunks from falling into the engine, remove if it happens! And as GT6M said, it would be nice to have a look at the head gasket if you've still got it, to corroborate a typical HG failure. Don't forget to change the oil before starting again! Pull the lifters out & look at their bottoms while you've got the head off.
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As a brief diversion: you mentioned yours was a Mk1 with the swing axle setup. Whjle you're doing all this, why not replace the spring with a swing spring? It was advised by BL to improve handling, & is pretty easy to do
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Hello! Create an account someplace like photobucket.com, & there you can upload huge photos & they'll give you a link you can put here so that we can see them. Huge photos are great for looking a problems.
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Cliftyhanger said that he is running 175/70 tires on 4.5J wheels for autocross. The numbers are worried to death here: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1333535260/s-all/ I ran the pre-metric 165 SR 13 size forever on my 4.5J wheels. Some things to bear in mind are: 1. The aspect ratio on the old sizes where it's not specified is /82 for all of the widths 2. In metric sizes (the ones with a / ) with specified aspect ratios, the sidewall height will change in relation to the width, so the appearance of the car will differ as well with a shorter sidewall (more space between tire & wheel well). You'll have to do math with the metric sizes to see what the sidewall height will be. 3. It's been mentioned that in our cars, part of the suspension action for keeping the wheels flat on the ground when in action was expected to be in sidewall flex, so shorter sidewalls change things. Some observations: 1. The 155/80 13 tires later spec'd by Triumph when metric sizes came out had shorter sidewalls than the original spec 155 13 tires. More space is visible between the tire and body, but there's less sidewall flex. 2. 165/80 tires are the closest but slightly shorter in sidewall height to the 165 13 tires I ran without difficulty, but a little taller than the original 155 13 tire spec. 3. 175/70 13 tires are shorter than the original spec of 155 13. 4 175/80 13 tires would have a sidewall height of 140 mm, probably too tall to go in the wheel wells without fouling. 5. Lower sidewall heights won't leave as much air between the tire & body if you've lowered the car from original height.
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That's a lot of work done!
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I believe that Rarebits Bill mentioned that he's selling those decals now.
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I consider the design of the GT6 mounts & try to think of a solution, like modern car enthusiasts come up with, but the mount design thwarts me. Homefix upgraders often fill modern factory mounts with silicone or polyurethane or something, but those mounts all seem to be designed like donuts. A sleeve carries the bolt or weight, it's in a donut of goo, & the good donut is in a larger sleeve (like an archery target). Downward force just sandwiches the goo tighter. But the GT6 mount has shear applied to the goo body, which is most of the problem. A redesign of the mount would seem the solution, but I can't see how. Something must be done! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN99jshaQbY