rotoflex
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Everything posted by rotoflex
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What I've seen seems to be most advocating patching the shell as much as possible while it's still on the frame, in order to keep it all straight, then separating the two for final stripping, repairs & painting.
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What I've seen seems to be most advocating patching the shell as much as possible while it's still on the frame, in order to keep it all straight, then separating the two for final stripping, repairs & painting.
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If there's no additional overdrive relay, the OD installation may have been post-factory with possibly non-standard wiring going straight through the switch with no relay. If that's the case, it would be a good idea to straighten it out & wire it as the factory did overdrives (with the relay), and the sooner the better. I agree with Jason: if you can hear the solenoid go clunk under the transmission cover, then suspect insufficient gear oil in the transmission (which shares its oil with the overdrive). Loss of reverse lights is strange if the OD solenoid is working. There are a number of possibilities involving the reverse light switch & the Overdrive inhibitor switch, but nothing that seems to add up to these symptoms. I'd really recommend first filling the transmission oil as soon as possible, & then on the first free day possible removing the transmission cover to see what's going on with the OD & reverse light wiring. It could be just a coincidence that your reverse light switch has gone out at the same time, but regardless, you'll have to remove the transmission cover to get to it anyway.
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I'm not very familiar with its innards, but: When you turn the black lever outwards (pointing into the cabin), the door is locked. If you pull on the interior handle to open the door when it's locked, the black lever rotates back flush & the door unlocks.
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Which GT6 (Mk1, Mk2/+, Mk3) ?
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I would be disinclined to use a cast aluminum oil sump because all the impacts that commonly dent the steel sumps would likely crack a cast aluminum one. I think the best sump improvements for oil control & cooling have so far been crank-scrapers: http://www.crank-scrapers.com/
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Cool!
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Did the factory fit spacers to the left hand springs of Left Hand Steering Spitfires as it did GT6's?
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The one original to my car went leaky long ago, & I just ran a length of heater hose until a a replacement pipe could be found & installed. The same piece of hose was on there for about a decade. I don't think it really must be a steel pipe, but it's nice to have one.
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The one original to my car went leaky long ago, & I just ran a length of heater hose until a a replacement pipe could be found & installed. The same piece of hose was on there for about a decade. I don't think it really must be a steel pipe, but it's nice to have one.
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That brings back memories of the old days of British Leyland & Jaguar Rover Triumph dealerships, & BAP/GEON stores and walking in and picking up counterparts. But nowadays, just about everyone will ship anywhere. You should call & see; I know Canley Classics, Rarebits, & Rimmer do.
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I've only done this while the body was still on the car, but the first time was still vexing. As I lifted the spring, the body rose, so I needed something to weigh the body down. My dad came into the garage while I was trying to figure out what to use, & he said, "You know, there's not much that's heavier than water." So the subsequent solution, and always after, was to jack up the corner of the car with the lifting tool attached, put a tall jackstand under the end of the lifting tool, then put a cooler in the back of the car Get the garden hose, fill the cooler with water until the center of the spring goes down low enough, bolt up the spring. Then get a short piece of hose, siphon the water out into the flower bed, & remove the cooler. It seems you might be able to cobble up something to temporarily balance a cooler on top of the spring & do this.
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It looks gorgeous. Did you really get "GT6" for your legal license plate?
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8328 wrote:Thanks for the advice guys. Once the weather brightens up I'll have a tinker. In the mean time I'll order a service kit and see how we go. I can't seem to find a fuel pressure regulator looking on Rimmers. Anyone got one fitted and can recommend a good one? Thanks again A fuel pressure regulator is really more of a hot rod shop item. The best thing really is to get a pump that puts out the correct pressure. Check the fuel pressure you have, first, then see whether it's even something you'll have to worry about.
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8328 wrote:Looks to be leaking from the float chamber. The fuel pump is brand new, fitted a year ago, used properly for the first time yesterday, so could be the pressure. What can I do to reduce fuel line pressure? You can add a fuel pressure regulator, or get a replacement pump. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge - I'm afraid it's essential that we have access to one now when replacing a fuel pump. Fuel pressure should be about 1.5 psi to 2.5 psi If the fuel pressure is OK, then you need to take off the float bowls from the bottoms (noting the different length screws) & see if the needle valves can be fussed into correct operation. It's best to have a spare float bowl gaskets on hand, as Pete Lewis says. Old gaskets sometimes come apart when taking the bowl off. Pete, thanks so much for the info on which way to adjust the bimetallic strip once it's decided they're out of original operating parameters. With the information that the throttle bypass valve can be just blocked off (usually by a piece of soda can cut to the outline of its gasket), that pretty much locks up how to deal with CDSE's once the emissions ancillaries are outside of operational parameters. I tried to adjust the themostatic valve via the hot water & thermometer technique on a set of carbs, & the result was unsatisfactory. Just leaving the valve closed is straightforward & reliable.
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Wow, amazing!
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From where are they leaking fuel? It may be just a bit of trash stuck in the needle valves that needs cleaning out - could happen to su's or strombergs. Also, have you replaced the fuel pump recently? It may be putting out too much pressure.
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Yes, the back half of the ignition switch (where all the electrical stuff happens) can become loose or even fall off.
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You're having a run of bad luck. Throw a Facet cube pump & a few yards of zip cord into the trunk for insurance & peace of mind until it gets settled.
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RichardB finally explained it all: near-side is the side that's near the curb. So the near side is the passenger side of a right hand steering car where it is driven on the left side of the road, and the side near the curb would be the passenger side of a left hand steering car where it is driven on the right hand side of the road. However, if a right hand steering car is driven in a place where they drive on the right hand side of the road, the driver's side would be nearest the curb and so the near side, just as for a left hand steering car driven in a place where they drive on the left hand side of the road would have the driver's side as the nearest side. It seems easier to think of this way.
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Wow, that went well!
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Is yours a single or dual Stromberg carb setup? Often a cause of a butterfly valve not closing is that the connector between the throttle shafts of the 2 carbs has become loose.
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JohnD: In the US, people nodding off after setting the cruise control has been a not uncommon occurrence & considered something of a hazard since their more widespread installation in the 1970s. I think now that cruise control is in almost all cars in the US now, falling asleep at the wheel is not so much referenced to cruise control use, but it's likely to still be a contributor.
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There was a fuel pump arm in my oil sump, & I don't even remember in which decade that happened!